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Old 10-06-2007, 11:26 AM   #15
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Keeping your engine properly tuned (spark plugs, filters, ect) as well as your tranny servicing and tire pressure will all help. Without a toad, I get about 11 mpg and with I get 9. My toad is a compact. I have a 34 Elandan on a GM chassis with a 454. As previously mentioned, driving habits make a difference also.
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Old 10-07-2007, 03:52 PM   #16
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Drifter:
My take is if your getting above 9mpg, you must have a neighbor thats messing with you by adding gas or just a great driver.

Mike </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Or both of the above are happening!

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Old 01-13-2008, 06:54 PM   #17
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you guys are killing me. We average 6 mpg
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Old 01-14-2008, 01:40 AM   #18
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by george henry:
you guys are killing me. We average 6 mpg </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

George,

You vote on your MPG with your right and left feet. Keep it under 65, anticipate stops and no jackrabbit starts. You may be surprised at the difference it can make. I could get 6 MPG all the time and will if I don't keep myself in check.
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Old 01-14-2008, 06:55 AM   #19
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When I first got my Motor Home the year before last I drove the speed limit and got 4-5 mpg. I now drive around 60 and get from 6-8. I would still like to get the banks system for the added power and if mileage improves all the better. I have no idea what the ultapower is. Never heard of it before today.
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Old 01-14-2008, 09:16 AM   #20
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You do not say what engine you have but this company may have what you need and is cheaper than a Banks sys. Brazels
I have had Banks sys on three Fords helped with power but not much on gas, the ULTRA-POWER upgrade may give the best of both worlds.
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Old 01-14-2008, 04:16 PM   #21
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I would like to add that with the Ultra Power Upgrade and adopting more conservative driving habits, there is an opportunity to realize 8.5 + MPG Avg. When I put my mind into it, I actually see a realtime MPG of 9.5 to 11 MPG on the flats at 58 MPH...and I can sustain that with no major hills or traffic slow downs on I-95 to or from Florida.
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Old 01-15-2008, 07:22 AM   #22
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My best investment in fuel mileage was VMSpc. It is a computer program that runs on our laptop (15" screen). I split the screen 1/3 for VMS and 2/3 for Street Atlas and keep it on all the time we are traveling.

Why is VMSpc a good investment? It captures, through the diagnostic port on the chassis, all of the data that is available. With a little tuning, I've got the fuel flow rate data adjusted so that it predicts within a gallon or so exactly how much I'm going to put in at the next fill up.
VMSpc uses that fuel flow information to calculate rolling MPG.

I increased the size of the rolling MPG display within the VMSpc window and use it to drive by. I've found that under anything but flat conditions, cruise control is not my friend from an MPG perspective. Over time and watching the rolling MPG numbers, I've taught myself what to do to save fuel and keep my results as high as possible. The "sweet spot" on our diesel/transmission combination is around 63mph so I try to drive it there as much as possible.

The power to weight ratio on our rig favors good MPG. With the diesel, we averaged 10.25mpg on an 18 day trip to Yellowstone in 2006. A broken speedometer compromised our statistics in 2007 but that is fixed now (I certainly hope) and I expect to be able to run about the same MPG as before in 2008. With today's fuel prices and a 4,200 mile trip planned, I need all of the help that I can get. Rough math says 420 gallons at $3.30 (or perhaps $4.40 if the predictions are correct) per gallon and you can see that even a little savings can be a help.
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Old 01-17-2008, 09:08 AM   #23
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Probally the cheapest modification with the highest return (short of not being a leadfoot) is a high flow air filter, such as a K&N or simular. They use a clothlike filter medium that filters better and allows more airflow than a paper type air filter. If your air filter is as hard to get out as mine, (wedged between the bottom of the dash and the top of the firewall) it lasts a whole lot longer between changes (Cleaning with these type filters) It really makes a difference with turbocharged engines. Cost $50 to $100 bucks.
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Old 01-17-2008, 03:46 PM   #24
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Hillbilly2:
Probally the cheapest modification with the highest return (short of not being a leadfoot) is a high flow air filter, such as a K&N or simular. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

A K&N air filter will allow larger particle contaminates to enter your engine.

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Old 01-17-2008, 04:05 PM   #25
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The larger particles are trapped by the oil that is applied to the filter, without this oil, yes larger particles can go through. Had one on a powerstroke turbodiesel for 250,000 miles, improved fuel mileage by 2 mpg and never had a problem with the engine.
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Old 01-18-2008, 03:55 AM   #26
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Constant vigilance on tire pressure, coast into stop lights such that you use very little brake, 60 mph or less and don't floor the gas coming out of a traffic light.
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Old 01-18-2008, 06:22 AM   #27
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I use the method in the above post, and a really strong spring on the return linkage for the gas pedal.

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Old 01-26-2008, 02:01 AM   #28
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">that filters better and allows more airflow than a paper type air filter. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The K&N will definately allow more airflow....So I agree with that part of the statement.

If these things would help you get a 2 mpg increase, people would be lining up to buy them. Most people report a better throttle response and a much louder roar when accellerating...thats about it.
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