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Old 06-17-2013, 07:37 AM   #29
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I welded up my dual hitch receiver and was to get the top receiver moved far enough forward to clear the tow bar swing zone. It was a tight fit to clear the rear bumper on the motor home and still allow the tow bar to swing into storage position. We traded motor homes shortly after and we were fortunate enough that it also fit the newer setup. For info, I used a three inch drop receiver and welded another 2 inch receiver about 5 inches above the drop receiver. It was positioned about 2 inches forward of the lower receiver. Cost was about $90 for the drop receiver which I needed anyway as the towed is a small car and $10 for the top receiver. Took about 30 minutes to weld, clean and paint. I doubt if a weld shop would charge a big fee to do this weld, but bear in mind it should probably be a certified weld.
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:58 AM   #30
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I use a locally made rack which have a wedge system built in , no wiggle rock solid
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:59 AM   #31
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This is load position
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:43 AM   #32
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We use the ladder rack mentioned above as well. Super easy to load and you count mount as high on the ladder as you need to get the bikes up and out of the way of the toad. I use a few extra large twist-ties (actually 12" peices of romex wire) to secure them so there is virtually no movement going down the road.
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:18 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetbriar View Post
I use a dual receiver for the bike rack. Need the drop to level the tow bar so if worked out perfectly for me. I did have to cut the tube that goes in the hitch so the rack wasn't over the tow bar vertical pivot point.


This post just convinced me that my setup is a disaster waiting to happen. I'm going to have to rethink how I do things.

Thanks.
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:55 AM   #34
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What is this disaster you speak of? Just curious..
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Old 06-23-2013, 04:18 PM   #35
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I have a yakima rack combined with a Curt dual hitch rated for 7500 lbs.

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What is this disaster you speak of? Just curious..
The vertical pivot point for my tow bar is well under the bike rack, and the rack is only a couple of inches above the tow bar. If the angle between the toad and MH became too much, something would have to give, most likely the bike rack.

I have since changed my arrangement, installing a hitch receiver on my toad, and the bike rack goes there now.
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Old 06-23-2013, 05:27 PM   #36
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We had a Swagman rack for a while and it was very destructive to our bikes. The bikes jiggled around so much in it that the paint scraped off the top tubes and one bike's top tube got a dent in it.

We upgraded to a Kuat NV Bike Rack. This is a phenomenal rack. Here's a review we wrote with lots of pics of it. You could put it in a 1.5" hitch receiver on the back of your toad.

Kuat NV Bike Rack Review: A FANTASTIC bike rack on our RV
I have the Swagman. I just put a piece of pipe insulation over the bike top tube. No more rubbing. Turned a good rack into a great one.
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Old 02-15-2015, 07:29 PM   #37
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Any suggestions for (4) bike racks on DP's when also towing? Read above about 190 degree air being blasted on the bikes from the Diesel engine (rear radiator). Also wondering if I can use a bike cover on a DP with rear radiator due to the heat. I've seen the double receiver mounts and receiver extenders but are they safe when towing a car? What about tight turns?

I like the option of putting bikes on Toad but DW doesn't want them on the toad when towing due to the extra length. Is there a rack that can mount on the back of the coach above and out of the way of the towing set up?

Also, if you hate wobble, rocking or swaying, on your bike or other hitch accessories Try this one, http://www.hitchrider.com/nowobble.htm it's the third one I've tried and the only one that works! They only sell direct from their website.
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Old 02-16-2015, 05:36 PM   #38
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yes, diesel, bikes, then tow...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetbriar View Post
I use a dual receiver for the bike rack. Need the drop to level the tow bar so if worked out perfectly for me. I did have to cut the tube that goes in the hitch so the rack wasn't over the tow bar vertical pivot point.

I use the same - got it, beleive it or not, off the shelf at wallyWorld!
works fines, 18k miles and not a single problem - and with all 4 bikes
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Old 02-16-2015, 09:45 PM   #39
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Thanks folks!
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Old 02-18-2015, 07:09 PM   #40
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We have a 2" Class II hitch receiver on our toad (Honda CR-V) and use a Bell Right Up 300 3-Bike Hitch Rack: Amazon.com : Bell Right Up 300 3-Bike Hitch Rack : Sports & Outdoors

This rack is also available at Walmart for the same price. Bought to replace aging rack. Been driving around with it now for about 2 weeks (1000+ miles), over some pretty rough primitive roads, etc. and it's holding up just fine. Bikes are held in place tightly with the provides straps but I also use tie-wraps for added security. I like that it tilts up. No wiggle in my 2" hitch. The only play is at the pivot point for folding it up, but it's not a lot. This rack also keeps the bikes separated, so they don't rub on each other. Recommend.

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Old 02-19-2015, 05:21 AM   #41
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The one recommendation I will make is a blue ox Hitch Immobilizer (used to call 'em anti-rattle clips) this locks the hitch adapter solid in the receiver so there is no movement.

I use a custom made drop hitch adapter to tow my car, it has a 2" receiver at the proper height for towing the car and a "tong" for a ball type hitch above that, the bicycle carrier I use bolts to that Tong i place of the ball.

They make them that slide over the 2" bar

And that go UNDER a ball hitch

Get the one that works best on your RV.
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Old 02-19-2015, 09:23 AM   #42
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I have a swagman hitch hooked up to double receiver between coach and road. I carry 2 bikes. There is a lot off bounce movement on the rack. I just got back from 3,000 mile trip and rear camera could see lot of bounce when going over rough road which I5 was. I'm concerned that bike rack hitch will eventually fail might have to change setup. Maybe ladder rack but again I don't know if all that bounce would effect ladder?

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