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Old 07-17-2013, 01:48 PM   #1
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Body attachment bolt loose on chassis - How do I repair?

I noticed a squeaking/oil canning sound while moving in front of my bathroom sink. I looked underneath the bathroom floor area which is near the right, rear duals. I could see an attachment bolt that was very loose. The nut and washer was hanging loose below the angle bracket that is welded onto the chassis. The bolt is also slightly bent. I attempted to tighten the nut with my 1/2" drive but the entire bolt turned. I phoned Winnebago and spoke to a technician who suggested that the bolt, which is normally welded to the house floor, frame, had probably broken the weld.

Any suggestions on how to fix this problem. The technician suggested that the floor has probably twisted over the years causing the bolt to break the weld. Access to the head of the bolt is impossible without ripping out the bathroom floor. I might be able to drive in a wedge or special shim to tighten the floor to the frame?

Any suggestions would be appreciate. I can reach the area in question so I hope to make the repair myself.

Knightly

2007 Itasca, Class A, 35' c/w W24 chassis, mileage 50,000 miles.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:01 PM   #2
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You will not be able to remove the nut after this with out a torch but it will tighten the bolt. take a pair of channel lock pliers and grab the bottom of the bolt to hold it then take an open end wrench and tighten the nut. If it is rusty spray it with PB blaster or similar b4 you try it.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:09 PM   #3
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you could weld a hold point on the end of the bolt and then turn the nut.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:16 PM   #4
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I'd caution against the wedge idea, as the bent bolt is already stressed and driving a wedge in might just finish it off.
Do the other mount bolts show any sign of similar damage ?
Can't think how one section of the MH would move enough to bend that bolt without the others showing similar damage.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:36 PM   #5
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Maybe pull it down with large clamp and tack weld. Try jacking frame up to it. Looks like plenty weld room. Iwiuld think Maladjusted idea good. Weld a nut after putting on couple threads.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
I'd caution against the wedge idea, as the bent bolt is already stressed and driving a wedge in might just finish it off.
Do the other mount bolts show any sign of similar damage ?
Can't think how one section of the MH would move enough to bend that bolt without the others showing similar damage.


My guess, it did not line-up at original assembly and they twisted it trying to force the issue. May just need to drive a wood door frame wedge between the floor and bracket top to get rid of the noise and forget about it.
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Old 07-17-2013, 04:08 PM   #7
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Check the warranty. I think Winne has a 10 year on the house. This might apply... it's at least worth a call.
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:36 PM   #8
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I would do what "tom77hmstd" suggested....or cut a slot in the bolt with a dremel and hold it with a flathead screwdriver. You can also file two sides of the bolt and hold it with another wrench.

If you have a welder available, add a second nut and weld the center of the second nut to the bolt.

No matter what you do, really soak the nut and bolt with a lubricant before you try to turn it. If you get it to tighten, don't go crazy and snap or strip the bolt/nut.
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Old 07-17-2013, 11:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
I'd caution against the wedge idea, as the bent bolt is already stressed and driving a wedge in might just finish it off.
Do the other mount bolts show any sign of similar damage ?
Can't think how one section of the MH would move enough to bend that bolt without the others showing similar damage.
No, all the other mount bolts are fine. I, as well, can't imagine how only one bolt is loose and bent. It is only recently that the floor started to squeak so I have no idea when the mount was compromised. I also can't imagine how the nut would have loosened. The nut was tight on the bolt shaft, no sign of movement.

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Old 07-18-2013, 12:53 AM   #10
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If I'm seeing the nut in the photo correctly, they are a single use lock nut, when new ; before installation , the last thread where it exits the top of the nut is deformed to lock it to the bolt, if it was tight and never loosened , with a wrench, it would not have backed off on its own.
I wonder if some kind of leveling shim fell out from above and allowed the clearance .
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:39 AM   #11
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The only warranty still in effect is the roof, everything else has expired.

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Old 07-18-2013, 11:58 AM   #12
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I think cutting a slot in the bolt end or putting flats on it to allow a wrench to hold it from the bottom as you tighten it would be the easiest strategy. If the bolt breaks or won't tighten, next question is what type of floor in your bathroom? If it's carpet, you might pull back carpet, drill up from the bottom, use a hole saw to make a hole in the floor (from the top) then through bolt. An appropriate plug in the floor, replace carpet.
...or learn to live with it.
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:40 PM   #13
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I think Tom has the easiest idea. There is enough of the threaded end of the bolt to grab with a pair of vice grips. Lock them on and tighten with an open end wrench. Looks like there is plenty of room to operate both tools. I might also flatten the threads with a cold chisel after I got it tight in order to keep it from backing off again.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:15 PM   #14
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Body attachment bolt loose on chassis

I would like to thank everybody for their input. I now have a lot of good ideas. I will be trying out some of the suggested methods over the next couple of weeks and will post the results when repair completed.

I really appreciate the responses.

Knightly
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