Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > MH-General Discussions & Problems
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-17-2014, 07:16 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
scooterbob's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 648
Brake Calipers

2000 F53 ford
I have a front brake caliper that is not fully releasing and the brakes are dragging. Any ideas on repairing this , other than getting a new caliper ?
__________________

__________________
Bob & Karen & Buddy "yourkie"
2008 Winnebago 39W Destination DP
Full time One Destination at a time.
scooterbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 05-17-2014, 08:20 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Rockwood27's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Nor'easters Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Freedom, NH
Posts: 949
The rubber flex hose may be collapsed on the inside (outside still looks OK), which could cause the same symptoms.

Fran
__________________

__________________
Fran, Mary & Zoey (silver Cocker)
2006 Itasca Sunrise 35A, 2005 W-22, Allison 1000 5 speed
'13 Ford Focus ST or '10 Prius on Master Tow Dolly 80THD-SB or '00 Jeep Cherokee 4-down
Rockwood27 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2014, 08:21 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
mrv8outboard's Avatar
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 318
You could check the slide hardware for binding and lube appropriately. I could be the caliper brackets are rusted. If is has (OEM it should) Phenolic Pistons they could have absorbed moisture from the brake fluid as well as the environment causing the to swell when heated by braking. The swelling is because the moisture in the phenolic piston is heated it tries to boil out and can not so it expands the piston. Some times once cooled they seem to work okay. This issue is most prevalent in minimally used vehicles. The brake system does not get used enough to keep the moisture build up to a minimum. Brake fluid flush to that wheel should be done as the fluid has been boiled. This done at all wheels will help. I use the NAPA Eclipse semi loaded calipers and buy better pads. You also get them loaded with pads. These are lifetime warranty. If you replace a caliper get it with the bracket as this is part of the issue, do not do caliper only. Also make sure to use the proper lube on the parts as they may have little or no lube out of the box.
__________________
mrv8outboard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2014, 04:17 PM   #4
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
Dutch Star Don's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca.
Posts: 9,295
If you want a cheap fix, pull the wheels, carefully pry the brake pads away from the rotor on both sides and lube the caliper on it's slide points. "mrv8outboard" referred to an issue that was common with the older Fords. Once you lube the calipers, bleed the brake system thoroughly with synthetic brake fluid. If you can do this type of work yourself, the only hassle will be removing the tires and wheels.

Once done, check to see if you still have a drag issue. People love to replace calipers as part of a brake job, but in all of my years of doing brakes, rarely did I find a caliper that needed replacing in a modern vehicle.
__________________
Don & Mary
2014 Newmar Dutch Star - All Electric - 450 ISL
2016 GMC Canyon 4WD Crew Cab
Dutch Star Don is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2014, 08:11 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
If you want a cheap fix, pull the wheels, carefully pry the brake pads away from the rotor on both sides and lube the caliper on it's slide points. "mrv8outboard" referred to an issue that was common with the older Fords. Once you lube the calipers, bleed the brake system thoroughly with synthetic brake fluid. If you can do this type of work yourself, the only hassle will be removing the tires and wheels.

Once done, check to see if you still have a drag issue. People love to replace calipers as part of a brake job, but in all of my years of doing brakes, rarely did I find a caliper that needed replacing in a modern vehicle.
Are you saying that seized brake calipers are rare or seldom occur?
__________________
04 Southwind 37C W22

DIY Rear Panhard Rod
exrench is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2014, 11:21 PM   #6
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
Dutch Star Don's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca.
Posts: 9,295
Yes I am. I did brakes for many years and rarely replaced a caliper. If you remove the caliper, compress them and clean the exterior seals and then lube where they slide, they work fine. People are way to fast to just throw them away.

Note: I'm not talking about a 1962 Sunbeam or some other old car, but modern cars using disc brakes.
__________________
Don & Mary
2014 Newmar Dutch Star - All Electric - 450 ISL
2016 GMC Canyon 4WD Crew Cab
Dutch Star Don is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2014, 03:26 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
stink's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,414
I need to disagree with Don. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, it absorbs moisture from anywhere. The little vent hole in the master cyl res cap is a good place. As the weather gets cold the brake fluid cannot hold the moisture and it condenses out as water. Water is heavyer than brake fluid so it will flow to the lowest part of your brake system ie, bottom of the caliper piston bore. There the water will sit and rust the bore and corrode the chrome finish on the caliper piston. A sticking caliper can be caused by a defective brake hose and to tell if so, raise front of vehicle. Stomp on brake pedal. try to rotate front tires. If one is more difficult to turn, losen the blead screw for that caliper. If the tire spins free after losening bleed screw than the brake hose is defective. If not, and if you have the four piston calipers get two new, yup you got to replace both calipers. If you have the one piston calipers you can try to lube the caliper mounts and see if that helps but most likely with only one caliper sticking you need to replace the calipers. When I was a service manager I always insisted that all brake work done safely, especialy with a really heavy MH
__________________
Dave and Laura & two cats
02 Discovery with Accord toad
retired auto rv tech and teacher, wife rt nurse
stink is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 06:59 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
scooterbob's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 648
Had the two new calipers installed with new pads installed, fluid drained and flushed and silicon fluid done..
__________________

__________________
Bob & Karen & Buddy "yourkie"
2008 Winnebago 39W Destination DP
Full time One Destination at a time.
scooterbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
brake, calipers



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Okay ... I SOLVED THE AUTO PARK BRAKE PROBLEM! JerryPeck Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 144 10-03-2017 11:45 PM
SMI Air Force One versus US Gear Unified Brake System rvMadness Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 23 06-15-2015 10:58 PM
Low Air presure - Park Brake iamduane Alpine Coach Owner's Forum 15 05-07-2014 05:49 PM
F53 Brake Calipers.. Destination Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum 2 02-07-2014 11:37 AM
HHR (2007) - Brake Light Relay Kit NOT needed Hagenl Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 2 01-19-2014 07:28 AM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.