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Old 02-26-2009, 11:44 AM   #15
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I just replaced the rotors on my Yukon which were warped, you could not visibly see the warp and they could not be turned due to lack of thickness.

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Old 02-27-2009, 05:05 AM   #16
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I called an rv dealer and they said that rotors and brakes are not covered by warranty. They can take a look at it, they said, but it will cost.

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Old 02-27-2009, 11:10 AM   #17
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I went thr a series of front brake failures a few years back. I fried a pair of pads. I replaced the pads and calipers and a few months later, had the same side lock up. The cause was the brake hose that failed, swelled inside and wouldn't let the hot fluid release back into the master cylinder. It acted like a check valve. Lesson learned, if replacing the calipers, pads and turning the rotor, spend the extra bucks and get new hoses and fluid.
Tim ,Retired Police Lt. 2002 Winnebago Adventurer+16' Trailer
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Old 02-27-2009, 12:57 PM   #18
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1st. If you are running a "C" class with a generator etc. you are probably overweight. I had 30ft Bigfoot that was 1800lbs overweight when I weighed it (jacks etc.). I got rid of it.
You NEED an auxilary braking system. I have a Brake Buddy and it helps with my Workhorse W22. When I jab my brakes for slow down - my toad brakes feel like someone threw out an anchor. They never show overheating or wear.
ALSO replace the warped rotors - labour is the same or less - but the rotors are all ready "fried" and will warp again - even sooner.
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Old 02-28-2009, 12:20 AM   #19
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Originally posted by Flattrip:
Thanks everyone.
I have a scangauge and never let it get above 4000 rpm. engine temp maxs at 235 on climb and then stays steady. I think the transmission came close to 235 the day they smelled , it was in the 90's outside. They were not visibly smoking as I brought it immed. to a stop and didn't see any smoke,but I could smell them. It was a two lane road so I couldn't pull over and also it leveled out. I have 1800lb ccc and 3500lb tow cap. I will see if I can find someplace to get it weighed. I don't think I was at capacity. I had maybe 30 gals of water between the tanks and a half tank of fuel( 55 gal) _ I would guess 500 - 700 lbs of clothes and food but I can't really be sure.

It's a 4 wheel abs disc brake class c -

Would there be visible bluing on the rotors? or would they look normal if they were warped?
The 3500lb towing capacity is usually set with the tow being properly set up (Chevy puts the gotcha "When properly equipped" in their towing guide) and that most often means that if the tow weighs over 1000lbs that it has an linked braking system that operates in tandem with the tow vehicle. Some juristictions set it at 1500lb and others a bit higher. Sometimes the manufacturers spec is lower that your local regulation. You should go with the lower of the specifications.

With a class C your 2700lb toad is just to much to consider a safe combination without toad brakes with a breakaway safety feature to stop the toad if it comes loose.
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Old 02-28-2009, 01:51 PM   #20
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It is hard to tell if you are getting abs or a warped rotor. Sometimes the heat causes the friction material to adhere to the rotor causing a pulstation but there is no easy way to remove aside from turning them on a lathe. If it is a pulse from light braking I would check on it, if it's from heavy application as in stopping on an exit ramp fast then it's just abs.

I think the only way to really tell if the rotors are deformed would be to check it with a dial indicator to see how much runout there is. By the time you buy a dial indicator and magnetic mount for the dial to keep it steady, you will have spent almost as much as if you replaced it. So that may not be a good solution.
If heated too much the rotors will develop hardened sections and turning them down does not always get these hardened areas out. It may not be that much more to just buy a new set. You can always do the two in front and see if that helps; then do the backs after. I would probably try that as long as you don't have alot of miles on the coach. I think the newer workhorse chassis (according to my manual on mine) has a proportioning valve to split up the braking between the front and back so you might have to end up doing all as it would probably be close to even braking pressure and the backs may have heated up close to the same as the fronts.
Brakes for the tow car may be a good idea if you go into the mountains. I am looking into tow brakes myself at this point -- Good Luck --
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Old 03-01-2009, 01:16 PM   #21
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I have a scangauge and never let it get above 4000 rpm. engine temp maxs at 235 on climb and then stays steady. I think the transmission came close to 235 the day they smelled , it was in the 90's outside.
Brakes are not the only problem on your horizon, unless you do something about that temps your gauge is registering. Heat is the biggest enemy of transmissions, and with your engine at 235 degrees, I don't know where your tranny is, but I'd hazard a guess that it's too high. I've been told that if you run your tranny temp at 250 or more, for anything over, say, ten or fifteen minutes, you have severely shortened its life; get out your checkbook, VISA, whatever.

To combat this problem, I switched engine and tranny both to Mobil 1 synthetic. Made a huge difference in the engine temp gauge when climbing a familiar grade, even though this time I was towing. Temp went up four degrees, instead of thirty.

I'm assuming the same difference applied to the trans fluid temp, but lest I put the accent on the first three letters, my next step is new tranny fluid again, plus the addition of a tranny temp gauge.

Btw, I also use Brake Buddy in the toad, great people to work with. Simple to use, just follow directions, switch to any vehicle as needed.

Great good luck to you, and have a blast!
Ken & Carolee, 1994 36' Pace Arrow/Ford 7.5L, Mobil 1 full syn & Banks Pack. Towing a 1999 Saturn SL2 with Roadmaster Sterling All-Terrain & Brake Buddy.
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Old 05-08-2009, 11:41 AM   #22
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I changed the fluid in the reservoir before I took a short jaunt of 4 hundred miles and I got none of the pulsing. I tried to recreate with slight braking and heavy braking but could not. Changing the fluid just in the reservoir shouldn't affect any abs or other pulsing should it?
The only difference this time was I didn't have the tow car with me and the outside air temp was much cooler.
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Old 05-09-2009, 10:34 AM   #23
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You said it only pulsates if you break real hard.. Do you break hard enough to go into a SKID (lock the tires) if so the ABS will kick in and ABS does pulsate the brakes, that's how it works

Just so you know

There is a NHTSA ordered recall on some Workhorse W-22's (And possibly others) due to a problem with the brake calipers locking up. Just so you know. it is adressed in another thread on this ese forums... Too much for me to explain here, Look for the words "Brakes" and "recall" in the same subject line

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