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Old 04-01-2010, 09:39 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by EngineerMike View Post
I had a Goodyear G670 blow out on the rear recently. When I replace it will be with Bridgestone, Michelin or Continental. The latter were recommended by a buddy who owned a trucking firm, maybe 40 trucks, and now drives a DP motorhome. The Goodyear's have the best marketing for an RV application, which isn't in my top 10 criteria for a tire. I'd have to agree tread wear isn't either. I want safety factor against a blow-out (only way I know how to get that is load range), limited telegraphing of road noise (Toyo's were awful in that respect) and ride quality (which I have no measurement for at all).

I did find an interesting statement while navigating the vagaries of a 22.5" tire blow-out: according to a local commercial tire service, if I bought Bridgestone or Continental from them, the tires come w/roadside service for tires with a fairly wide geographic range across the lower 48. I have no idea what the reality of this encompasses (if anything) but plan on finding out before I put any new moho rubber on. If it turns out there's truth in this, I'll probably put new steer tires on this year and save the old fronts for unmounted spare when traveling in Mexico.
Would you mind letting us know which tire service include a roadside service with the price of the tire.

Mike & Gloria
2009 DSDP 4010
Toad--2004 Jeep Unlimited
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:57 AM   #16
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The shop we talked to (they were the ones who actually mounted our 22.5-G670 on rim on a Sunday afternoon) are an independent shop. I believe this tire road service sounded like they provide it thru a network probably affiliated w/the tire providers. We only caught a whiff of the story, but I'll visit their shop during regular biz hours and get a full download and post it when available. It sounded on its face like something full size RVers would be tickled pink to have as it obviates a lot of Q&A for deciding what response is needed for a tire emergency. I'll report on that when I have more info.

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Old 04-01-2010, 11:47 AM   #17
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That's interesting... Someone going from GoodYear G670's to Michelin which I thought were worse for blowouts.

Nobody really knows which tire manufacture has the highest incident for blowouts and which tire manufacture has the least.

Some have excellent results from Toyo, some do not. The same goes for all of them.

I saw a MH the other day with Toyo tires.. Huge 3xx somethings 22.5,,,, They were 7 years old with 48k miles and looked excellent. I thought they were no more than a year or two old. The owner swore by them. Who knows? The tread only looked half wore or less. Sidewalls were in excellent shape.

I have GoodYear G670's and have not had any problems with them.

I don't like Michelins because they have softer sidewalls for a cushy ride. I'll take a more stiff ride and go for something tougher to withstand road hazzards.
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Old 04-01-2010, 01:09 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Barrier2 View Post
Hi Richard, Would you mind letting us know how much you paid per tire and where did you get them from.
Hi Robert,

I shopped around the Santa Clarita area including Castaic where there are trucks galore and tire shops, then the Northeast San Fernando Valley area for price quotes, etc.

After a lot of frustration talking with tire dealers, I finally remembered that I met a couple 6 years back that were staying at Valencia Travel Village where I currently live, and they were staying there for awhile to have a brake job done, new tires, and medical treatments at UCLA for the husband. They gave me the shops names for both the brakes and tires. I was pleasantly surprised at how much cheaper they were. They actually service a major portion of the commercial trucking industry around LA with emergency road service too.

The name of the shop is Parkhouse Tire, 11764 Sheldon Street, Sun Valley, CA 91352, phone 818-767-4929. Willie Melancon is the man to talk to. You can use my name as a referral, Richard Smith. None of the other places came close to matching their prices.

Each tire was $415.69. For installation, disposal fee, taxes (Yikes), after adding all the extras on top, the total bill will be $3205.98. Well actually $7 cheaper 'cause I am taking one of the front tires with me to use as spare rubber.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 04-02-2010, 06:49 AM   #19
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I have some tire questions based on what has been said. Just trying to get myself educated.

1. How does one know that there have been a lot of blowouts on Michelin tires? Is there a database I can look at or is this one guy that has had a blowout and the story has been passed around 100 times?

2. When one has a blowout then then how can one tell if it is the tires fault or the fact that the tire has had a nail in it or a valve stem leaking that has caused the tire to have low pressure and overheat. (Some of the stories on what tire pressure RVers are using is enough to destroy a tire and scare me too death)

3. This "rivering" problem with the Goodyear tires. How do we know that is not caused by alignment and not the tire or caused by under inflation? How can you tell if it is "rivering" and just not under inflation wear. I had the problem with my Goodyears on my previous MH until I had somebody do a front and back alignment then they stopped weraing. My new MH has 24000 miles on Goodyear G670's and the are wearing evenly.

4. People say the Michelin have softer sidewalls. How do you know that? Is there a way to measure the softness? Which Michelin tire has a softer sidewall?
Mike Canter
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Old 04-02-2010, 08:54 AM   #20
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On our previous 3 MHs, 26' GMC, 26' Jamboree, & 38' DutchStar DP, we've always run Michelins and have never had a minutes problem.

In Dec of 09 we replaced the Michelins on the DutchStar w/a new set. The old ones had lots of tread left but had date codes ranging from 2003 to 2000. We bought the MH used from a FL dealer in Sept of 08, and don't know the tires previous history. We put 20k miles on those old tires, including a 12k trip from TX to AK and back last July/Aug. The 2 frts were J rated 275/70-22.5s and the drive axle were G rated 255/80-22.5s. We replaced the frts w/H rated XZA3 275/80-22.5s and the drive axle w/G rated XZA1+ 275/80-22.5s. We carry a used mounted spare in the basement. We have put 2k miles on the new ones so far.

We shopped this forum and local tire dealers(San Antonio) long and hard for tires(mainly Michelins). There is really only 1 place here that has large MH Michelins(TCI). All the other Michelin dealers would buy from them, mark them up, then sell'em to you. NOT!

We were considering going w/a less expensive brand, but in the end we thought the extra $$$ for Michelins was worth it. We were having the DutchStar painted 300 miles from home in Nacogdcohes, TX, (home of Foretravel MHs) and the paint shop owner turned us on to a tire shop there, Herman Power Tire. They sell a lot of 22.5 MH tires because of Foretravel, and handle several different brands(Bridgestone & Cooper). They beat the pants off($100/tire) of our previous hometown quotes. For the two XZA3s, we paid out-the-door $590/tire, and for the four XZA1+s $490/tire, for a total of $3140. They high speed balance the tires w/lead weights, not powder/beads.

If we had to do it over all again, we would consider Bridgestones because one of our daily drivers, a Toyota FJ Cruiser w/42k miles has a set that came on it new and we luv'em, and our new to us 42' tag 99 Monaco has a set(295/75-22.5s) that ride nice(like Michelins). If the Bridgestones on the Monaco give us trouble free service then maybe next time? We'll probably put another set of Bridgestones on the Toyota in about a yr.

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We hope this helps?

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Old 04-02-2010, 08:43 PM   #21
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Take a look at the pictures I have posted showing various tire "failures".
Almost every "blowout" I have seen and investigated can be traced to being operated underinflated and overloaded.
For some reason people think that if they check their tires at 8AM in their campsite it is impossible for them to get a puncture as they leave the campground.

Finding the puncture is not always possible but running underinflated does generate physical conditions that simply do not occur unless a tire is run underinflated.
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Old 04-02-2010, 08:58 PM   #22
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I checked all of my tires before pulling out of a campground 2 years ago in Canada. We stopped out in front so the wife could go into the store. I walked around the RV and car and discovered a flat tire on the Toad. I hadn't driven 1/4 mile and picked up a large nail somewhere. As soon as we got home I ordered the "Tire-SafeGuard" monitoring system. In the last 2 years it has alerted me to 1 flat and 3 slow leaks. I won't leave home without it!
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Old 04-03-2010, 07:46 AM   #23
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This "rivering" problem with the Goodyear tires. How do we know that is not caused by alignment and not the tire or caused by under inflation?
Why would "rivering" be a problem in the first place?
The tire will age out before the "rivering" ever gets down to the ware bar on many RV's. The tires are not cupping, which would be a problem.

It is not caused by alignment because all 6 of my G670's have the same ware. No difference between the front or rear inside or outside tires.

I just checked them all out while greasing the chassis. Mine will be 5 years old this May. And looking at them now. No sidewall checking and not much difference between the regular tread and the edges (rivering).

They may make it to 10 years.
Which Michelin tire has a softer sidewall?

They have a reason to add on the inflation table.
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Old 04-03-2010, 09:12 AM   #24
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I have used bridgestones on my two previous coaches and have had no problems.
When I traded the first one in, the sales people at the dealer where I traded in could not believe they were five years old. This coach has michelins, but if it comes to $1200 difference when I have to re-tire, you can bet I will go with the bridgestones.
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Old 04-03-2010, 05:05 PM   #25
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Rivering can be caused by your rear axle being out of alignment with your front. Not just the front alignment you should get the rear alignment done also. Some rear axles are not adjustable. On my old mh when rivering started on both the front and back tires I checked the front alignment and it was right on. I went back and had to have the rear axle loosened and then used a hydraulic ram to move it into alignment. My rivering stopped. Cupping would not be caused by rivering. Cupping is normally caused by a bad shock or a bad balance job. Once cupping starts the it is sometimes to late to stop it and make the tire smooth. If it is slight then sometimes the tore can be shaved to fix it.
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Old 04-10-2010, 07:45 AM   #26
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Bridgestone R280

I had Michelins taken off my coach last year and replaced them with Bridgestone R280s on the recommendation of the truck tire shop. They indicated that the carcass of the Bridgestone had the most value as a recapped tire for OTR drivers because of its high quality. In addition, the Bridgestone was much more affordable. I got 6 22.5s for about $2,400. Michelins would have cost 50% more (~$3,600). I've got a few thousand miles on these tires and I have no complaints. I would recommend going to a truck tire shop rather than an RV shop for tires. They do high volume and thus have much more accumulated experience.
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Old 04-10-2010, 08:56 AM   #27
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On my prior rv I had Michelin XZE's and after 4 years showed no sidewall cracking. My present rv, which I just purchased has 5100 miles on a set of XRV's. When I test drove it the rear end would seem to wander or shimmy slightly from side to side. When I got back I checked the tire pressure and the duels had 60 psi and the sidewalls already showed signs of checking/cracking. I aired the tires to 90 psi and it completely changed the handling. I no longer air my tires to the weight the rv is carrying, I air them to axle capacity. They ride a little harder but I get better gas mileage and the tires run cooler.

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