Calling all electrical experts or not

[keyman272]

I'm having a lot of problems with electrical components and need some suggestions to help me find the problem(s). I just recently bought this 1993 37' Fleetwood Bounder(1st timer)and didn't know what I was getting or what to look for. The unit is in good condition but has the following issues:

1. The dash AC is not cooling.

2. The water heater electronic ignition doesn't spark so it wont fire up.

3. The cruise control won't come on.

4> The Water pumpswitches have been by-passed for some reason and the pump on runs when hot wired.

5. When I plug the tow dolly into the towing light sockets the lights come on on the dolly even though the coach lights aren't on. This happens whether I plug into the 7 pin socket or the 4 pin socket.

[RV Wizard]

Most likely the dash air conditioning has a leak and the refrigerant is low. I suggest you have a qualified technician diagnose and repair guaranteeing it will last more than a month.
You could have a bad connection on the direct spark ignition board. Unplug the wire connector from the board and also do the same for the high tension spark/sense wire on the coil. Re-install the connections and retry operation. If it still does not try to ignite, let us know so we can have you check some other areas.
I suggest you get a qualified chassis mechanic to address this issue as well.
If you have multiple pump switches you have a latching relay somewhere that these switches can control and thus control the pump. It sounds like the latching relay may have went out and someone bypassed the switches to try to live with the problem rather than fix it.
How much electrical experience do you have? Can you troubleshoot a dc circuit with a test light or volt meter? You will need to be able to do this or have someone qualified to check and correct the wiring for the tow dolly issue.

[Rick Long]

I highly suggest that you drop over to the Yahoo Bounders Group and you'll get answers from members that have the same Bounder as you have.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bounder/

Your Cruz Control may be disconnected because of the recall... Dealers didn't have the parts to fix them yet so they disconnected them to prevent a possible fire. Look under the hood at the Brake Master Cylinder... if you see some electrical terminals with nothing attached then it's disconnected and you just need to drop by a ford dealer and have them install the pigtail to fix it... takes a few minutes and NO COST to you.

[keyman272]

The dash air was working fine and cold when I bought the unit in central Florida, but halfway home to the Keys, we hit a major rain/hail storm and the dash air suddenly quit . After someone here told me where to find the fuse panel under the dash, I pulled the 25 amp fuse and there was a 1/8 in. hole completely through it. I replaced it and the fan motor started working again but not cooling anymore.
I can check out the electrical system but the heat index will hit 106 today and I was hoping someone would be able to shorten my troubleshooting time.
The nearest Ford dealer is 60 miles away in Key West and the next one is 80 miles away in Homestead.
I will try your suggestions but keep them coming.
Thanks.

[stevesandidg]

run your genset and use the coach air untill y ou can get it fixed
steve

[nbounder]

Here's some advice from a bonafide Bounder owner of similar vintage : Call Fleetwood and ask for a wiring diagram. 800-322-8216. Be sure to have your VIN number at hand. It's free. Join Bounders United - membership includes a subscription to Bounder Sounder, and they have an excellent TECH Column, and a bunch of interesting info to boot. You do not need to join any RV club to be in BU. If you don't already have one. get a small Digital Volt Meter (DVM). Also, get a plug-into-the-wall-socket AC voltmeter, & leave it plugged in. Poke around under the coach in the storge compartments just to see where everything is located. Keep an eye on your tire pressure, and check for sidewall cracks. Find the DOT date of mfr & hope it's not over 7 years old. Sounds like you own a rig that previous owners have 'improved' to death. With the diagram in hand, and some troubleshooting ability, things will come together easily.PM me at your earliest convenience.

[keyman272]

OK I rewired the trailer hook-up and it is now doing what it's supposed to. Hard to believe how it was hooked up before. All the lights were hooked up to the brake wire which was always hot
As far as my water pump goes. It looks like the indicator light next to the switch by the sink doesn't work and it looks to me like the hot wire goes through that switch before it goes to the water pump and the power can't get through because the bulb is burnt out. Is this possible??
I still haven't figured out the water heater. That switch is OK and the light works and stays on when the switch is on but it just doesn't fire up. How do I test the voltage at the water heater?

[RV Wizard]

What brand of water heater do you have? The only reason I ask, is because of the different wire colors the two mfg's. use and Atwood has a thermal fuse link. Is the direct spark ignition board mounted to the outside of the water heater?
Basically when the control board gets 12 vdc it will fire up the coil feeding high voltage to the spark electrode, open the lp gas valve to allow fuel for ignition and once the electrode is in a flame, dc millivolts are produced for the same electrode to become a flame sensor. Check to see if you have 12 volts feeding the control board when the switch is turned on. Let us know and we will go from there with your specific make.

[keyman272]

Originally Posted by RV Wizard

What brand of water heater do you have? The only reason I ask, is because of the different wire colors the two mfg's. use and Atwood has a thermal fuse link. Is the direct spark ignition board mounted to the outside of the water heater?
Basically when the control board gets 12 vdc it will fire up the coil feeding high voltage to the spark electrode, open the lp gas valve to allow fuel for ignition and once the electrode is in a flame, dc millivolts are produced for the same electrode to become a flame sensor. Check to see if you have 12 volts feeding the control board when the switch is turned on. Let us know and we will go from there with your specific make.

My water heater is an Atwood model# G6A-7E
I get 13v dc going through the fused link into the thermostat and coming back out but there is no power in any of the red wires. E.C.O. or ignitor

[DonavonP]

http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/ Here's a source on ignitor boards.

http://www.bryantrv.com/owners.html There's a PDF of the owners manual on the Atwood here.

[BAins]

Back to the dash ac when you turn it on does the compressor come on and run or does it never try to start. If it starts and quits you have a pressure problem or a pressure switch problem. If it never starts then maybe you have a thermostat bad or something not letting power to the clutch on the compressor.

[RV Wizard]

Sounds like you need a new board; you can't beat a Dinosaur.

[keyman272]

New Dinosaur control board ordered. Will be here saturday or Monday.
Also ordered some water pump switch indicator lights and some other stuff from Sullivan RV Sales and Service.
Now can concentrate on fixing A-C and cruise control.
Thanks again to everyone for all the great info

[keyman272]

I can't find any information about the cruise control recall.
I like being called a junior member