 |
|
Can anybody give me some advice with replacing a tire valve core?
12-04-2009, 01:01 PM
|
#1
|
|
Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Could be in any state but most of the time in the state of confusion!
Posts: 238
|
Hi. I have a stuck valve core in my inside dual. Thankfully, it is on the inside dual where the valve stem is pointing outward. Can I replace this myself in that I don't have a compressor nor a lot of tools with me.
I'm thinking that I'll need a valve core removal tool and that's about it, correct? I'm assuming that I'd have to loosen the stuck core and remove all the air. Then remove the core and install a new one. Do I put silicone or any other dressing on it to help the seal?
However, what I'm wondering if I'd be able to fill a tire from a fully deflated condition with my on-board compressor.
Also, what brand or type of valve core would I need? I'm assuming that it is a heavier duty one that you'd find in a car. I've replaced valve cores in car tires in the past but am hesitant about doing it on the coach. I'm assuming a tire shop would probably charge me $50-100 to do this for a part that costs about $2 and I'd have to believe they'd ding me at least for a half-hour of labor?
Can anybody who has done this give me some tips or advice? Should I attempt it myself without a stand-alone compressor?
TIA for any responses.
__________________
2007 Meridian 34H, CAT C7
|
|
|
|
| |
|
 |
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
12-04-2009, 02:03 PM
|
#2
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: North East Indiana
Posts: 1,731
|
Replacing a valve in a M/H tire is no different than a car. No silicone is necessary, in fact would not recommend it. As far as the compressor goes, can't comment on that as I don't know the ability of your on board compressor.
__________________
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-04-2009, 02:09 PM
|
#3
|
|
Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Could be in any state but most of the time in the state of confusion!
Posts: 238
|
Thanks, Homer. After thinking about it some more, I'm wondering if the bead will unseat itself when I deflate the tire. If so, I'm not sure if I want to fool with it.
__________________
2007 Meridian 34H, CAT C7
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-04-2009, 02:44 PM
|
#4
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: North East Indiana
Posts: 1,731
|
Good thought, it probably will not, but then again it could and then you would have a heavy job on your hands.
__________________
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-04-2009, 02:46 PM
|
#5
|
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,902
|
The valve core in your tire is the same as the ones used in automobiles, or bicycles for that matter. If your tires were balanced using one of various types of beads (Equal, for instance) you probably have a special valve core that was installed at the time the tires were balanced. These special valves have a filter screen to keep the bead material used for balancing off the seat of the valve core. If you only have a slow leak at the valve, might be better to just let a tire shop replace it. Not a big job if you can drive it to the shop.
Dieselclacker
__________________
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-04-2009, 02:50 PM
|
#6
|
|
Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Lacey, Wa
Posts: 506
|
Call a couple of tire places. Bet you find one for 20-25 dollars.
__________________
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-04-2009, 03:08 PM
|
#7
|
|
Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Could be in any state but most of the time in the state of confusion!
Posts: 238
|
Thanks for the responses.
It doesn't look like it's leaking but appears the spring is jammed as I can't get a pressure gauge on it.
Ok, so the consensus is to have a tire shop do it. I'll probably just wait until the next time I get ready to leave and have a shop do it before I hit the road on a long trip.
Thanks again.
__________________
2007 Meridian 34H, CAT C7
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-04-2009, 07:18 PM
|
#8
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,361
|
Most larger national tire shops would gladly replace your valve core free of charge - good PR, at least the Les Schwab tire stores in our part of the country will...
__________________
John Day....|'88 Winnebago Super Chief 27ft. Class A Eastern .....|'88 KIT model 240 24 ft. 5er Oregon ......|'02 Dodge/Cummins 2500 Quad Cab
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-05-2009, 06:06 AM
|
#9
|
|
Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 134
|
I am not a tire tech but I have changed valve cores before. You can screw out the old core and screw in a new one. The outside dual will support the tire so it will not pop off of the bead. Any balancing compound should have already taken its place in the tire so I do not think you will loose any of it. The core will seal when tightened with no added silicone. Look at you dash air gauge and if it show 110 PSI while running and the tire takes less than that you can air the tire with it. I may take a little bit but it will do it.
You might put a little oil or grease on the core before putting it in the stem to lubricate the oring.
Hope this helps
Chris
__________________
Monaco Dynasty
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-05-2009, 08:52 AM
|
#10
|
|
Senior Member
Appalachian Campers
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 466
|
It's much easier than you're making it out out be. Have your new core ready, take the old one out and screw the valve cap back on before the air gets out. Yes the plastic cap and before the air gets out. Put your new core in the tool, use a finger to steady it where the core meets the tool, using your other hand remove the valve cap and just stick your new core in. Top up your air pressure and you're done.
If you have the ability to air the tire up there you can let the air out if your tire size ends in a whole number, for example LT225/85-16. But if it's a half number, LT225/70-19.5 then I wouldn't let the air out. Tires that end in .5 have a different bead design that will unseat itself pretty easily. Whole number sizes seat themselves pretty firmly.
__________________
2001 HO Cummins powered Dodge 2500
2002 Springdale 286RLDS
Wife-Angela Daughter-Ashley Son-Joshua
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-05-2009, 11:45 AM
|
#11
|
|
Senior Member
Appalachian Campers
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Dixie !! (north Georgia) USA
Posts: 1,733
|
If you are worried about the bead coming loose, don't. The other tire will support it for that few seconds it takes to make the change. Still worried, put you jacks down and take the weight off the tires.
As someone said, this is a very minor thing - not nearly as big a deal as you are worried about.
__________________
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-06-2009, 01:29 PM
|
#12
|
|
Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Could be in any state but most of the time in the state of confusion!
Posts: 238
|
Hey, thanks for the additional responses.
So if I remove the core completely from a tire this big without letting it slowing bleed out, the volume of air that will come out the stem won't be so great as to pop the core out like a missile? Will I have trouble handling the core with the volume of air that's coming out of the stem? ...either taking it out or trying to insert the new one?
From what I remember when I changed the core in a car tire, the volume of air was manageable enough in order to get the old one out and the new one quickly in. I'm on the fence in trying to decide whether to do this myself or let a tire shop do it. I suppose anything goes wrong (or if the bead does unseat itself), I will essentially be calling for road service to come out to my site and fix things.
My tire size does end in 22.5 so according to sknight, there's more a chance that I'll unseat the bead if I can't get the new core in before the tire goes flat?
Thanks, I sure appreciate all of you taking the time to reply.
__________________
2007 Meridian 34H, CAT C7
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-06-2009, 03:13 PM
|
#13
|
|
Senior Member
Appalachian Campers
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 466
|
Yeah if you let that tire go flat chances are it'll unseat itself, and getting those tires to seat are a pain without a bead blaster.
Depends on how much pressure is in the tire, but yeah the core can take off. No problem with the old one but you don't want to lose the new one or have a few handy. The tire will stay seated until it gets nearly zero pressure in it.
I tried to find a video and had no luck. Put the new core in the tool, put your finger against the core where it meets the tool. That should hold it steady for when you reinstall it.
__________________
2001 HO Cummins powered Dodge 2500
2002 Springdale 286RLDS
Wife-Angela Daughter-Ashley Son-Joshua
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-06-2009, 03:39 PM
|
#14
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 334
|
I had the same problem, stopped by a tire shop and the guy changed the core for free. It took him less than five minutes and he waved off my offering to pay. Good PR for the shop.
__________________
|
|
|
|
| |
|
 |
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|

»
Recent Discussions

»
Upcoming Rallies
No events scheduled in the next 365 days.
|
»
iRV2 on facebook
|