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Old 04-30-2013, 09:25 PM   #15
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On Amazon search "isolator relay".
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:24 AM   #16
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Did you get the 80 amp or the 200 amp?
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:40 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninos View Post
Did you get the 80 amp or the 200 amp?
80 Amp should be fine for most gas units. You might consider a 200 amp relay for a DP with 200 amp alternator. I use the 80 amp.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:20 AM   #18
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What you are looking for is called a "continuous duty solenoid" as opposed to a starter solenoid.

Continuous Duty Solenoid 80AMP 12V : Amazon.com : Automotive

They should be available at any auto parts store.
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:54 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan.Birch
What you are looking for is called a "continuous duty solenoid" as opposed to a starter solenoid.

Continuous Duty Solenoid 80AMP 12V : Amazon.com : Automotive

They should be available at any auto parts store.
Agreed! Tip for dummies like me. Since I don't know what everything is or where it is located - I use my iPhone to take a picture of things. Synch pics to laptop and am working to insert them into a PowerPoint presentation (word doc would work). I get a close up pic like this
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2229694015.jpg
Views:	45
Size:	398.3 KB
ID:	38000

So I can read the part number. Note location and get a wider view. Then google part number and get a picture like this

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Views: 115
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And copy information - URL into ppt deck.

It's a work in progress / process - but the Bounder is going to be with me a while and I want to know what's where, what it does, where I can get one and what it costs. For small - prone to failure bits like this - I have started a spares to carry list for when we go full time next year.

Just a thought and while I don't want to hijack here - I am carrying an Extended Service plan for another year - till I get everything sorted. I will have extensive backup of my maintenance routine - clean components, contacts etc. When I drop the plan - I will know my unit - have some spares and a nice presentation / documentation for the next owner. While I received all the factory books and manuals - they are woefully short of useful information.

Fleetwood also sent me the schematics for electric and plumbing and build info spreadsheet.
Lots to know and always learning things here - but you can learn a lot with your eyes - a camera and Google. Then - before spending money - check here - post pics to help others help me. Beginning to come together but lots still to do. Just one way of doing things. YMMV.
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:46 PM   #20
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for emergency you can hook wire from pos to pos terminals on baterys with aligator clips to charge while engine runs. Just remember to take off when stopped so engine batery does not drain
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:58 PM   #21
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Ok my friend order the solenoid from Fleetwood he chose to go with the original one, but we still have the problem that the chassis battery's are not getting charged from the inverter and the house battery's are charging, well we think that they're not because the house battery's are 13.4 volts and the chassis are 12.8 volts, any idea what could be the problem? He as a 2007 discovery and he's inverter is a magnum, "I think it's a magnum" I think that the chassis battery's should be at 13 plus volts. Any ideas?
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:58 AM   #22
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If the MH has a BIRD, and it seems it does, the cut in voltage for the chassis battery to be charged by the convertor is usually 12.3 volts. This may not be the exact controller but will give you an idea of how they work and save a bunch of typing. It just may not have hit the voltage yet. I assume the new isolator relay was installed.

Good Luck
Tom

larger image

$61.95

Bi-Directional Isolator Relay Delay by INTELLITEC
Intellitec’s Bi-Directional Isolator Relay Delay™ offers a new approach to charging batteries in an RV application. Unlike prior systems that only allowed charging the RV battery from the engine’s alternator, the Bi-Directional Isolator Relay Delay™ charges both batteries when either one is being charged. When the coach is being driven, both batteries will be charged from the engine’s alternator. When the coach is plugged into shore power, both batteries will be charged from the converter. If neither battery is being charged, the batteries are fully isolated. The controller also senses heavy loads on either battery to prevent the wrong battery from being inadvertently discharged.
It operates by sensing the voltage on both batteries. When either of these volts exceeds 13.3 volts for approximately 12 seconds, which happens when either battery is being charged, the control will close the isolator solenoid, connecting the two batteries together, charging them both. (Normal charging voltages are from approximately 13.8 to 14.4 volts.)
After the solenoid has been closed, the system continues to sense the voltage. If the ignition switch is off and the battery voltage drops below 12.8 volts for approximately 5 seconds, which might occur when the converter is heavily loaded, the solenoid is opened to prevent the chassis battery from being discharged by the coach loads. When the voltage goes above 13.3 volts again for approximately 5 seconds, the solenoid closes again.
If the ignition switch is on, the control allows the voltage to drop below 12.0 volts for approximately 5 seconds, before the solenoid is opened to insure the alternators full output is available for important chassis functions. When the voltage goes above 13.3 volts again for approximately 5 seconds, the solenoid will close.
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:18 AM   #23
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Any type controller.
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