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Old 02-28-2015, 11:54 AM   #15
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In addition to YC1's suggestion, there may be a set of fuses in the battery control Center that fuse the line from the house batteries to the chassis battery. I had a similar problem, and after much head scratching and lots of reading here on the form, it boiled down to the solenoid or a fuse. It turned out that someone had removed the fuse, and improperly re-inserted it, so it prevented the charging form the house side. If your Rv is like my 05 Pace Arrow, you should be receiving 13.2 volts or better as measured at the chassis battery when plugged into shore power. This would mean that the converter is charging both your house and chassis batteries.
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Old 02-28-2015, 01:48 PM   #16
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Instead of bogging your brain down by suggesting you search for BIRD here is a quick shortcut for your setup.

Go to the battery compartment and locate the big black solenoid mounted on the back wall. It should have a purple wire on it. Carefully feel the solenoid to see if it is hot. If so it is being energized.

Now you need to put a voltmeter from ground to one side of the solenoid and then the other. (the large terminals). IF the voltage is not the same the solenoid is defective which is a common problem and easy enough to find links on this forum for the better replacement.

If the solenoid is bad you can unplug from shoreline, turn both sets of batteries off with the big round switches, then stack the large wires together onto either side of the solenoid until you get a new one.

If this solution does not work there are lots of places to go from here.

Again, for some heavy reading just do a search for BIRD. You will get way to much information and you have to sort out what applies to your model. Yours should be very close to my 08 Endeavor
YC1....from your post I would assume that the engine batteries WILL charge when connected to shore or generator power.

What will joining the two large leads on the solenoid do? Might that cause an overcharging condition? What does this solenoid do?
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Old 02-28-2015, 02:25 PM   #17
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BIRD. Bi directional relay delay. It combines both battery banks when any source of charging is available. (alternator, generator, shoreline, solar).


Combining the two cables will do no harm and cannot overcharge. This relay/solenoid is supposed to do exactly that but does not appear to be working. This is a temporary measure. Your aux start push button activates the same solenoid.
If you mess around pushing the button or go banging around the battery compartment the relay may start working and you will be scratching your head. It is important to feel the solenoid. Be careful, it can get very hot. This is normal. If it is hot it means the purple wire has a voltage on it to activate it. This is what should be happening. The contacts get bad inside the relay/solenoid. I have replaced mine twice and keep a rebuilt one on hand.
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Old 02-28-2015, 02:43 PM   #18
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Hi Stan&Jacquie,
In this thread all posts are correct, sort of. Some coaches do and some do not charge the chassis battery from shore power. Because your owner's manual says the chassis batteries are charged when connected to shore power that is what we need to go by. Now for the fun part. I do not know how your coach was built. If iRV2 has an owner's forum for your brand, consider asking what kind of charging circuit is in your coach. I'm sure someone will be able to tell you this. The hard part may be finding the components. No matter what the brand is those assembling the coaches seem to take delight in putting components in unique locations. The two systems I am familiar with are the BIRD and the BIM.
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Old 02-28-2015, 02:46 PM   #19
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Quote:
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BIRD. Bi directional relay delay. It combines both battery banks when any source of charging is available. (alternator, generator, shoreline, solar).

Combining the two cables will do no harm and cannot overcharge. This relay/solenoid is supposed to do exactly that but does not appear to be working. This is a temporary measure. Your aux start push button activates the same solenoid.
If you mess around pushing the button or go banging around the battery compartment the relay may start working and you will be scratching your head. It is important to feel the solenoid. Be careful, it can get very hot. This is normal. If it is hot it means the purple wire has a voltage on it to activate it. This is what should be happening. The contacts get bad inside the relay/solenoid. I have replaced mine twice and keep a rebuilt one on hand.
Thanks for this most helpful info. I have determined the solenoid is bad....13 volts on feed side; 11.75 volts on engine battery side .

Can't locate the forums recommendation fora ether product. Might you be able to steer me to one?

Thanks again for your assistance.
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Old 02-28-2015, 02:49 PM   #20
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Hi Stan&Jacquie,
In this thread all posts are correct, sort of. Some coaches do and some do not charge the chassis battery from shore power. Because your owner's manual says the chassis batteries are charged when connected to shore power that is what we need to go by. Now for the fun part. I do not know how your coach was built. If iRV2 has an owner's forum for your brand, consider asking what kind of charging circuit is in your coach. I'm sure someone will be able to tell you this. The hard part may be finding the components. No matter what the brand is those assembling the coaches seem to take delight in putting components in unique locations. The two systems I am familiar with are the BIRD and the BIM.
Thanks!
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Old 02-28-2015, 03:44 PM   #21
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I had a faulty Battery Isolator Solenoid. Replaced it and now everything is charging again. Chassis batteries and house batteries from shore Power or generator as well as House batteries from alternator when driving.
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Old 02-28-2015, 04:15 PM   #22
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Thanks for this most helpful info. I have determined the solenoid is bad....13 volts on feed side; 11.75 volts on engine battery side .

Can't locate the forums recommendation fora ether product. Might you be able to steer me to one?

Thanks again for your assistance.

I noticed when I drive for 4 hours or so, and I have had less than 15 amps dc load on the inverter, upon arrival my bulk charger kicks on when I plug in. I think I may have a bad solenoid too? Should there be charge voltage on both sides (when plugged in to shore power) at all times? If so should be easy enough to test.

I don't think mine is like Mike's but he wrote a great guide on cleaning them. It's posted on the forum somewhere.


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Old 02-28-2015, 07:17 PM   #23
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Stan, I will do a search. Glad you found it. Curious, did you feel the solenoid? Did you happen to measure the voltage on the violet wire?


The solenoid is a trombetta and we recommend the silver contact one. It is on here somewhere and I may have it in my private archives. I will try to find it here so you can benefit from the forum threads.
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Old 02-28-2015, 07:22 PM   #24
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It is a Trombetta Bear Model #114-1211-020. From all the posts, this is the best.


Scroll to the top section and find the little box with a google search. Search for Bird, and then search for Trombetta so you can really learn how this system works.
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Old 03-01-2015, 03:51 PM   #25
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It is a Trombetta Bear Model #114-1211-020. From all the posts, this is the best.

Scroll to the top section and find the little box with a google search. Search for Bird, and then search for Trombetta so you can really learn how this system works.
Got it! New solenoid has been ordered and I should have it in a few days.

Yes...touched solenoid and it was cold. Could not get any voltage on the purplevwire.
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Old 03-01-2015, 04:13 PM   #26
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Ut-oh, if no voltage on the purple ( small ) wire, you may have other problems.

If the solenoid was warm , then it could be bad. Cold means no power to it, making the problem in BIRD control.

Good luck
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Old 03-01-2015, 06:54 PM   #27
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Got it! New solenoid has been ordered and I should have it in a few days.

Yes...touched solenoid and it was cold. Could not get any voltage on the purplevwire.
Guess I wasn't clear. A warm solenoid means it is drawing current and activated. No voltage on the purple wire mean a different problem and time to chase the fuse that supplies it.

Please reconfirm your statement.
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Old 03-01-2015, 09:44 PM   #28
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Guess I wasn't clear. A warm solenoid means it is drawing current and activated. No voltage on the purple wire mean a different problem and time to chase the fuse that supplies it.

Please reconfirm your statement.
Yes... That is correct. The solenoid is cold and i get no voltage from the purple wire. When i test it the meter registers a few rapidly changing numbers and then settles down to zero volts
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