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Old 11-09-2014, 02:51 PM   #1
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Chassis battery problem?

I will try to make this as short as I can, but I want to be sure I get you all of the information so that I can get help with my problem.
After filling my 2006 Monaco LaPalma up with gas, I noticed that it seemed to barely turn over--weak battery. I made it to my destination and plugged in. When leaving two days later, it wouldn't turn over and none of the components that use the chassis battery. I pushed "battery boost" and it started right up. When I released the "battery boost", the engine died again. I tried this several times, always with the same result. Therefore, I started the motorhome using "battery boost" and taped it to where it would stay on. I drove the 2 1/2 hours home and when I arrived home, I looked under the hood and noticed that the chassis battery vent caps were not there.
Any advice on what happened, if I messed anything up, and where do I go from here? I know that I need to replace my chassis battery at this point, but is that likely the only problem?
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Old 11-09-2014, 02:57 PM   #2
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Hello and welcome!
Sounds to me like the chassis battery is shorted out internally or something of that nature,,,,,,Bad battery
So when voltage for the other batteries along with the voltage for the charging system......boiled it, gassing off, pressured up, blowing the caps off it........
Take the battery out and have it load tested......I am betting it is bad.
Can you see battery water all over and is the water level down?
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Old 11-09-2014, 04:54 PM   #3
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Caps gone and dry maybe?

In the old days you could pull battery once running and all is well but the electronics now need clean dc so battery needs to be there.

Old battery is OPEN not shorted.

So just replace it but now figure out what happened.

Caps may have blown off if excessive charge current or been left off by someone checking water.

Verify charging voltage and purity of charging voltage...presense of ac while running
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Old 11-09-2014, 08:08 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by TQ60 View Post
Caps gone and dry maybe?

In the old days you could pull battery once running and all is well but the electronics now need clean dc so battery needs to be there.

Old battery is OPEN not shorted.

So just replace it but now figure out what happened.

Caps may have blown off if excessive charge current or been left off by someone checking water.

Verify charging voltage and purity of charging voltage...presense of ac while running
Shorted Cells Manufacturers are often unable to explain why some cells develop high electrical leakage or an electrical short while still relatively new. The suspected culprit is foreign particles that contaminate the cells during manufacturing. Another possible cause is rough spots on the plates that damage the separator. Better manufacturing processes have reduced the 'infant mortality' rate significantly.

Cell reversal caused by deep discharging also contributes to shorted cells. This may occur if a nickel-based battery is being fully depleted under a heavy load. nickel-cadmium is designed with some reverse voltage protection. A high reverse current, however, will produce a permanent electrical short. Another contributor is marring of the separator through uncontrolled crystalline formation, also known as memory.

Applying momentary high-current bursts in an attempt to repair shorted cells offers limited success. The short may temporarily evaporate but the damage to the separator material remains. The repaired cell often exhibits a high self-discharge and the short frequently returns. Replacing a shorted cell in an aging pack is not recommended unless the new cell is matched with the others in terms of voltage and capacity.

http://www.batterystuff.com/blog/how...ry-is-bad.html
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Old 11-09-2014, 08:31 PM   #5
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A bad battery or alternator is likely. Also check voltage regulator and isolator. Easiest way to know if your alternator is putting out enough power?? Take a digital multi meter. While the engine is running touch your test leads to positive (+) and negative (-) battery terminals. You should get a reading of 14.50 volts with the engine running. 12.50 volts with the engine off. If you can't get above 13.90 with the engine on, it will be the first sign of a bad alternator.
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Old 11-09-2014, 08:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TQ60 View Post
Caps gone and dry maybe?

In the old days you could pull battery once running and all is well but the electronics now need clean dc so battery needs to be there.

Old battery is OPEN not shorted.

So just replace it but now figure out what happened.

Caps may have blown off if excessive charge current or been left off by someone checking water.

Verify charging voltage and purity of charging voltage...presense of ac while running
Remember an automobile produces DC current not AC current unless it is plugged into a power outlet. It is very important not confuse the 2 ? The A/C air conditioning should not be on while the battery is being tested nor anything else that can draw the battery down. It will produce inaccurate readings.
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Old 11-10-2014, 01:24 AM   #7
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The alternator is a multiphase ac power source or ac generator thus named alternator.

On an oscope output real dirty.
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:05 AM   #8
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Caps gone and dry maybe?

In the old days you could pull battery once running and all is well but the electronics now need clean dc so battery needs to be there.
Youngester.. . That's only since about the late 1960's when they started using alternators,, Back before that you needed a battery or the car would die at idle cause the older generators did not put out at low speed.

However the rest of your post was accurate..

I agree the chassis battery is in need of replacement.. Likely (Since it is a flooded type) it had a shorted cell which caused the rest to gas like crazy blowing the caps off, and resulting in one of teh OTHER cells opening up (So both the shorted and open schools are correct, just at different points in time).. In either case.. Time for a new one.

How old is it... I mean Mine made it 9 years, Though I have heard of one hitting 12, that's not very common, usualy 7-10 is your limit.. Have also heard of one where 7-10 DAYS applied, but that one got replaced under warranty. (It was in my car).

The replacement lasted many years,, The replacement for that outlasted the car.

While you are replacing it have the charging system tested, I mean some folks suspect the alternator,, Never hurts to test it. and if it is the problem.. Can avoid another battery replacement. Many battery stores test charging system for free.
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:19 AM   #9
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If you can't get above 13.90 with the engine on, it will be the first sign of a bad alternator.
Hummmmm! Guess mine has been bad since new to replace one that only was putting out 12.0V 8 years ago. 13.8 to 13.9V is the most it has every done.
That is by what the VMSpc says.
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:57 PM   #10
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The alternator is a multiphase ac power source or ac generator thus named alternator.

On an oscope output real dirty.
Your AC generator is a totally different motor from the alternator. The alternator is designed to keep the battery charged and maintained while the engine is running. It also charges the house battery but does not actually provide AC current. Nor is it designed to provide AC current. Worked on automobiles for many years.


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Old 11-10-2014, 11:13 PM   #11
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Check the cable

I had that exact problem. Boost would start the engine, but a jump start wouldn't. The auto parts store checked the battery and said it was fine. Finally turned out to be the battery cable. The cable terminal had been replaced, and it had corroded inside the clamp.

About a year later, I had a similar problem. That time it turned out to be the connection to the coil of the battery disconnect relay. Just a dirty push-on connector on the circuit board. Since your engine dies when you release the boost button, this could be your problem.

Check these things, and have the battery tested before replacing it.
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Old 11-11-2014, 09:57 AM   #12
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Does not provide ac current until a diode fails.

They do have an ac ripple voltage that is filtered by the battery.

Due to the multiphase design of the alternator it is higher frequency and easier to filter.

if a battery is removed or goes open the ac will be rippling on top of the dc and can be measured.

On some cars it can be heard in the radio as a whistle that changes with motor speed.
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:57 AM   #13
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Don't really want to hijack this thread but I have a related question. We just purchased a 2008 Fleetwood Bounder 37D. It has four 6v house batteries and two 12v chassis batteries. Being plugged into shore power keeps the house batteries charged but what about the chassis batteries ?

Because this motor home is new to use, I have not figured out all the in's and out's of the systems. We are also in a "Snow Bird" mode for the first time and don't want to get a big surprise when we get ready to move to another location.

Thanks
Bill
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Old 11-13-2014, 04:12 PM   #14
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Don't really want to hijack this thread but I have a related question. We just purchased a 2008 Fleetwood Bounder 37D. It has four 6v house batteries and two 12v chassis batteries. Being plugged into shore power keeps the house batteries charged but what about the chassis batteries ?

Because this motor home is new to use, I have not figured out all the in's and out's of the systems. We are also in a "Snow Bird" mode for the first time and don't want to get a big surprise when we get ready to move to another location.

Thanks
Bill
Hi there Bill! I cannot answer your question........you might want to ask over on the Fleetwood fourm, and you might just get your answer a lot quicker than here.......wish I could help you
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