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Old 07-05-2007, 02:17 PM   #15
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by hamdave:
30 amp is 30 amp. If you want to move to a 50 amp 220v service, you need bigger wire, 4 strands, and a 220 v breaker. You are expecting too much. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
220v breaker is not required. The circuit is dealing with two 110vac legs
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Old 07-05-2007, 08:07 PM   #16
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I checked my electrical panel and sure enough, the 30 amp RV pedestal and the 20 outlet that I was connecting to were on the same leg. I plugged the 20 amp power cable into an outlet powered by the opposing leg and whoala! 50 amp service! There are so many intelligent people in this forum...thanks everyone.

Two more questions: I have only had my DP a few short months, and so far I've only camped in parks with 30 amp service. When I plugged my cheater box in, the "50 amp" light on my EMS display lit up, but the amps drawn readout is blank. When hooked up to 30 amp service this readout always displays the current amps being drawn. Does this readout normally go blank with 50 amp power?

Also, will I fry anything in my motorhome if I plug the cheater box into TWO 30 amp outlets, or must one always be 20 amp and the other 30 amp?

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Old 07-06-2007, 12:09 AM   #17
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Craig, it is normal for the EMS amperage display to go blank on 50 amp shore power as it is not likely you will need to shed any power. Plugging into two 30 amps is ok as your main will protect the power cord from pulling too much amperage over an extended period. Try to keep the connections as tight as possible to prevent burning of plug blades and receptacle. GOod luck and have a great summer.
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Old 07-06-2007, 07:21 AM   #18
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Thanks Wizard!

One last comment: I use a Hughes AutoFormer whenever I'm hooked up to shore power. I noticed that the AutoFormer boost lights would be lit if I ran both A/C's on 30 amp service. Now that I'm able to achieve 50 amp service with the addition of the cheater box, I can run both A/C's, the refer and the water heater all on electric current without the need to boost the power.

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Old 07-06-2007, 11:30 AM   #19
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Craig;

RV 50 amp service is TWO legs of 50 amp each for 100 amps available to your coach.

When using your "cheater" plugged into a 30 amp and a 20 amp outlet you will not end up with normal 50 amp RV service (ie: 100amps). You'll have a 30+20 which equals 50 amps and is half the amperage of a normal RV 50 amp (2 X 50)supply.

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Old 07-06-2007, 11:44 AM   #20
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The comments about 240V and two legs are all accurate. You have plenty of power with your cheater box as is, but your EMS doesn't know it and sheds loads when it doesn't have to. Your cheater box is not at fault - you will need to plug the 20A side into a different outlet, as others have already explained. Note that is you did not have an EMS, you would be fine as is.

My EMS works the same as yours - it looks only for 240V between the two legs to determine if there is more than 30A available and there is no way to tell it otherwise. I have an amperage select switch, but it only allows me to change between 20A and 30A 9which the EMS cannot distinguish by itself). Nor can I override the load shedding.
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Old 07-06-2007, 11:51 AM   #21
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What Tom says is true to my understanding. One problem w/coaches is they are usually overloaded on the one leg, i.e. the leg that the 30 amp would use. For example, the microwave, both A/Cs and the kitchen plugs plus other items will be on one leg.

Sometimes the cheater cord won't help much because you are still running your coach mostly on the one 30 amp leg.

Believe it or not, all three of my A/Cs are on one leg which makes no sense. I will eventually be moving the 3rd A/C to the other leg.
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