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Old 03-07-2013, 02:41 AM   #29
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Okay, I got my pedestal tester completed. It works great. I attach a Kill o Watt meter that I have had for several years to check for Under/Over voltage and proper frequency. There is the simple voltage test light to verify that it is plugged into a true 50 amp RV service with two separate 120 vac legs.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:48 AM   #30
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I have been debating about getting a surge protector or in reality what they are is a "voltage sensitive switch". There is some protection built into the Progressive Dynamics converter but they do not tell you how much. I will be making up one of the testers, just a good idea before yo do anything. At home I have a point of entry panel guard and on each of the major appliances and electronics a sure protector and a UPS for the computer. The two or three layer surge protection device is best. In looking for information of what kind of protection for the trailer I was looking for some depth of information and found Surge Protection FAQ's which I will book mark for future reference and stick in my folder of stock answers for RV forums.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:59 AM   #31
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I have a HW-50 Progressive unit. Their Warranty is the best. Even when out of Warranty they will take care of the problem. The Progressive unit is well worth the money.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:14 AM   #32
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I have a HW-50 Progressive unit. Their Warranty is the best. Even when out of Warranty they will take care of the problem. The Progressive unit is well worth the money.
Since they say its a lifetime warranty. I'd say its never out of warranty. They have lived up to this.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:36 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by phinneyj View Post
Okay, I got my pedestal tester completed. It works great. I attach a Kill o Watt meter that I have had for several years to check for Under/Over voltage and proper frequency. There is the simple voltage test light to verify that it is plugged into a true 50 amp RV service with two separate 120 vac legs.
I made a similar device but instead of putting a box as you did, I put female rubber coated plugs for each leg and put a light testers into each pigtail plug.

For 30A service, I use a normal RV male plug to female U-Ground adapter and put a light tester into that.

I even test any 20A outlet I am not familiar with. So often people reverse neutral and hot connections when wiring these plugs. All they have to remember is "Gold is Good" but many times people have put the black on silver and white on gold.

ONLY USE THESE FOR TESTING.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:36 AM   #34
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I made a similar device but instead of putting a box as you did, I put female rubber coated plugs for each leg and put a light testers into each pigtail plug.

For 30A service, I use a normal RV male plug to female U-Ground adapter and put a light tester into that.

I even test any 20A outlet I am not familiar with. So often people reverse neutral and hot connections when wiring these plugs. All they have to remember is "Gold is Good" but many times people have put the black on silver and white on gold.

ONLY USE THESE FOR TESTING.
Lets see some pictures. I really like the DIY out of box solutions for everyday RV problems. Clean trouble free electric service is on of the important ones. This is a great tool for RVers whose resources are limited and the cost of a surge guard is out of immediate reach. Get yourself an old four conductor dryer cable, a plasitc gang box and a couple 15a outlets to start. Failure to ascertain proper service at the CG can result in thousands of dollars in repair and a less than satisfying trip.

Someone also said to not use the test box to separate loads. Given the step down in wire size needed to make connections to the outlets I would not use the test box as a power distribution box. Not sure how it will hold up to max current loads. This just checks for a properly wired pedestal, open neutral, reverse polarity, open ground, over/under voltages and properly wired 50 amp pedestal through both legs. Gonna test it out tomorrow at a county campground nearby. I hear the trout fishing is going to be good also.
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2004 Winnebago Journey 39K on a Workhorse chassis w/ ISC 330, Allison 3000
2013 Honda Fit with Roadmaster Baseplate, BrakeMaster and All Terrain Falcon Tow Bar.
GS#819681685 FMCA#F437136 SKP#112720
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:59 PM   #35
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Lets see some pictures. I really like the DIY out of box solutions for everyday RV problems. Clean trouble free electric service is on of the important ones. This is a great tool for RVers whose resources are limited and the cost of a surge guard is out of immediate reach. Get yourself an old four conductor dryer cable, a plasitc gang box and a couple 15a outlets to start. Failure to ascertain proper service at the CG can result in thousands of dollars in repair and a less than satisfying trip.

Someone also said to not use the test box to separate loads. Given the step down in wire size needed to make connections to the outlets I would not use the test box as a power distribution box. Not sure how it will hold up to max current loads. This just checks for a properly wired pedestal, open neutral, reverse polarity, open ground, over/under voltages and properly wired 50 amp pedestal through both legs. Gonna test it out tomorrow at a county campground nearby. I hear the trout fishing is going to be good also.
Right on re the step down wire. So unless it is fused to protect the smaller wire, just use this for testing. I have my 50A pigtail test cable loaned out to friend who is cruising in the Southern States and I no longer have a Class A and we are grounded for a few months because of my wife's health. I don't have a photo of the cable, it but it is the same concept as the one shown except I put rubber coated female plugs on each leg. I soldered the Ground and Neutral connectors inside the rubber insulated enclosure I made.

I primarily use 30A service now. Attached are pictures of the Standard off-the-shelf adapter and tester I use. I can also plug my Kill-a-watt meter in to the adapter as required. Use the same testers for the 50A breakout test cable.. Hope my picture gets loaded OK.
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