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Old 04-01-2015, 06:35 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by JFXG View Post
Factors are two: keep it straight and keep it centered.

Lay down a very bright, 6" wide stripe on the floor, starting at the door edge and extending back exactly parallel with the unit walls. One is enough, on the driver side of the coach. Tilt your left mirror down slightly so you can see the tape line and your rear wheels. Only fold the mirror when you need to-- by then you're in, and only have to roll a few more feet straight back.

Use the left mirror only. It's all you need. The coach doesn't expand and contract. If you keep the left side close and accurate, the right side will be just fine.
I really like this idea ...THANKS!

Robby
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Old 04-01-2015, 06:46 AM   #16
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Agree with post 12. Easier to back out than it is to back in. So if possible drive it in. Don't turn the wheels while it is in building. Generally it will track back out the same tracks.

Russell.
Thank your for the reply. That's how we do it, backing out goes very smooth so far. Putting it in is what stress me.

I measured the door opening and then the coach to make sure it would fit plus there was other Class A's in the same building. I don't remember the numbers but I think the opening started out 10' and then the door need a side jam and weather stripping that slimmed the opening down 3 or 4 inches.

Robby
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Old 04-02-2015, 08:44 AM   #17
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It's hard to believe the motorhome will go through the door without having the mirrors folded in. We had a garage with a 10' wide door for our previous motorhome. With the mirrors folded in as far as they would go the width at the mirrors was 9' 11 1/2". That left 1/4" on each side of the mirrors as they passed through the doorway.


My wife acted as the spotter every time we put the motorhome in the garage or removed it. We parked it in that garage over 12 years without hitting or scratching anything.


The old garage had a 12' high x 10' wide door. Since the new motorhome is 12'8" high we had to make other arrangements. The new garage has a 14' high 12' wide door. It's nice not to have to fold the mirrors in every time we move the motorhome.
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Old 04-03-2015, 09:52 AM   #18
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Listen to the fire guys as they have been there.

Get it in there then get some bright tape and after cleaning the floor with bleach pull a string besides the tires and tape the floor.

Also get some cones or something that can be bumped as warnings.

And always get a spotter.
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:13 AM   #19
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We paint lines on the hangar floor to use as guide when moving planes in/out of hangar. This would work, but the driver would need to see the tires /floor lines.

I believe the OP has available to him the best option currently, the mirrors. Just pull it in, clear the mirrors, watch for clearance in the mirrors.

A little practice and he'll get used to it.
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:06 PM   #20
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We also have a 10 ft door and the mirrors do not come in. We have less than 2 inches on each side! Nerve wracking but between the 2 of us and very slow motion, we inch (literally) it in and out!
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Old 04-06-2015, 07:55 AM   #21
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If you have Velvac mirrors, loosening two set screws in the base mounts of the mirrors will allow them to swing out of the way increase clearance or completely swing out of the way depending on how/where they are mounted. If you mark a line on them, getting them back to the correct position will be a matter of only lining up the marks. The hex set screws are under round plastic caps that remove with a slotted screwdriver. Sounds more complex than it is and you will be able to do it in a couple of minutes.....the second time! A lot cheaper solution than replacing a mirror!
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Old 04-06-2015, 09:41 AM   #22
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If so then depending on size you could take a drill and tape the sides or use a straw to protect the threads and just kiss the spot where the set screw touches.

You just want to make a spot so just touch the trigger once or twice just to see a small amount of material come out.

Practice on something else if not sure.

Do this bofore moving and when it is where you want it.

Next make sure set screw is pointy.

Then when returning to position if close the setscrew will follow the pit you made and reposition perfect.
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Old 04-06-2015, 10:15 AM   #23
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If you have Velvac mirrors, loosening two set screws in the base mounts of the mirrors will allow them to swing out of the way increase clearance or completely swing out of the way depending on how/where they are mounted. If you mark a line on them, getting them back to the correct position will be a matter of only lining up the marks. The hex set screws are under round plastic caps that remove with a slotted screwdriver. Sounds more complex than it is and you will be able to do it in a couple of minutes.....the second time! A lot cheaper solution than replacing a mirror!
That's the way we relocated the mirrors when we had to fold them in on our previous motorhome. We used a paint marker to put a dot on the mirror and a corresponding dot on the mount.

The idea of removing the set screw and kissing the mirror stud will work if you're careful. The only drawback is that if the mirror ever needs minor adjustment it's hard to do with a locating divot in the stud. If you decide to do this I recommend a cup point set screw. The pointed set screw will raise a burr when it seats. If the hole isn't deep enough the burr will catch and keep the mirror from rotating.

Another suggestion is to remove the set screws and put a light coating of never seize on them. After a few times of loosening and tightening the set screws on ours one galled on the threads and seized in place. I had to drill it out and replace it. After applying never seize the set screws were loosened and tightened a couple dozen times a year for 10 more years with no problems.
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Old 04-06-2015, 10:40 AM   #24
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On my coach, the DS mirror arm mounts on the side of the coach and you can just pivot the head with a single set screw below the head. On the PS, the mirror is mounted on the front and both the head and the arm pivot so it can be moved completely to the front of the coach to get it away from the side. I just use a piece of black electrical tape on the black arms and extent it over the swivel joint. Cut it with a razor knife at the swivel and realignment is fast and simple. Given that this mirror can be swiveled at the head or arm, I don't think it would be a good idea to dimple either swivel point in case you want to perform minor adjustments in the future. The advice about coating the hex nuts with anti-seize is excellent - I had installed SS set screws that galled in months. I did however develop a minor competency dismantling the mirrors getting them out!
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Old 04-06-2015, 04:05 PM   #25
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Masking tape and an ink pen reduces odds of cutting into paint.

Anytime you mess with stainless hardware do take the time to put some lube on it.

3n1, grease or anything handy is all that is needed.
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Old 04-07-2015, 01:10 AM   #26
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How do you get out of the coach?
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Old 04-07-2015, 01:31 AM   #27
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Agree with post 12. Easier to back out than it is to back in. So if possible drive it in. Don't turn the wheels while it is in building. Generally it will track back out the same tracks.

Russell.
That's what I do to store the MH beside the house, but now we moved up to a 45' rig and I'm worried that I'll take out the neighbors mail box as the tail swing on the new one is greater. Don't have the rig back from Cummins yet and never made it home to begin with. Cummins is supposed to be done with the engine on Friday so I hope to try it out this weekend. I hope it works out!
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Old 04-07-2015, 09:41 AM   #28
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Maybe convince the the neighbor to move his with your help.

With your luck the mailbox has a target on it for sure.
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