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Old 08-10-2013, 12:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loulong View Post
NOT TRUE.....
That coach has a solenoid, specifically installed to bridge the batteries together anytime the ignition is ON. Try again....
I stand corrected. Thank you.

I checked my manual and did a little experiment. Seems that turning the key on doesn't connect the battery banks but running the engine does.

Funny how many things I already "know" but have to re-learn these days.

Rick
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Old 08-10-2013, 12:55 PM   #16
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Seems to me this would be easy to determine on any coach.

Get your digital volt meter out and start the engine. Make sure shore power and the generator and not on/connected.

1- Go to the chassis battery (s) bank. Check to see if you have more than 13v across the battery (s)

2- Go to the house battery bank. Check to see if you have more than 13 volts across the batteries.

If you read approx 12.3 volts (or less) at either bank of batteries you might have a problem.

Yes or no?
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Old 08-10-2013, 01:06 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Hubrich View Post
Seems to me this would be easy to determine on any coach.

Get your digital volt meter out and start the engine. Make sure shore power and the generator and not on/connected.

1- Go to the chassis battery (s) bank. Check to see if you have more than 13v across the battery (s)

2- Go to the house battery bank. Check to see if you have more than 13 volts across the batteries.

If you read approx 12.3 volts (or less) at either bank of batteries you might have a problem.

Yes or no?
I think that's right. If you have an inside EMS panel where you can read the voltage of each bank, you don't even need the VOM.

This is how I just verified it on mine. With the key on my two banks read different voltages but once the engine is started they're the same.

Rick
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Old 08-10-2013, 01:52 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Hubrich View Post
Seems to me this would be easy to determine on any coach.

Get your digital volt meter out and start the engine. Make sure shore power and the generator and not on/connected.

1- Go to the chassis battery (s) bank. Check to see if you have more than 13v across the battery (s)

2- Go to the house battery bank. Check to see if you have more than 13 volts across the batteries.

If you read approx 12.3 volts (or less) at either bank of batteries you might have a problem.

Yes or no?
Max, you are absolutely correct that that is the easiest and surest way to see if charging is happening. However, the question was whether or not it was designed to do that. I'd bet your last dollar that all coaches are designed to do that.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:23 AM   #19
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I have a similar problem with my 1992 Travel Master. I am a new to this RV thing too and I can't imagine the coach battery wouldn't be wired to charge while driving but I don't really know.

Someone suggested I contact the manufacturer. I guess I can't they are out of business.

Does anyone know how the Travel Master is designed to work with charging the coach battery?
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:03 PM   #20
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Funny. Our coach is at a Camping World service center now for a few repairs. The tech phoned to say our house batteries were not being charged by the engine alternator as designed, and he would also fix that. He continued to say all MH batteries should be receiving a charge from the alternator while driving, said he has never seen one that is NOT designed that way in his 25+ years as an RV technician.
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Old 08-12-2013, 12:23 PM   #21
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Funny. Our coach is at a Camping World service center now for a few repairs. The tech phoned to say our house batteries were not being charged by the engine alternator as designed, and he would also fix that. He continued to say all MH batteries should be receiving a charge from the alternator while driving, said he has never seen one that is NOT designed that way in his 25+ years as an RV technician.
Many of us have stated the same in this thread. Many of the older Class Cs used a diode isolator, but most Class As have used the solenoid method.
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