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Old 08-17-2015, 02:09 PM   #1
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Coach battery solenoid bypass?

Hey guys, I am a new motor home owner! I recently purchased a 97 Winnebago Adventurer! I am having a problem, with the coach batteries. I have done my research and read and read, I just want to make sure before I go in and attempt a fix. I have the problem where the coach disconnect solenoid isnt staying latched and keeping the house batteries on.
I would like to replace the solenoid (if its bad) but want to make sure I am messing with the correct one.
I took this picture this weekend so I could figure it out.
First, the top solenoid is the one that is for connecting the coach batteries I believe, am I correct?
Second, should there be a fuse in the top right of it? If so, could that be the problem?
Third, I want to add a manual switch in case this goes bad again. From what I have read, I just connect heavy wires from the left big lug to the right. I was planning on using this switch and some 2gauge battery wire.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00
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Old 08-17-2015, 03:32 PM   #2
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The label on the only solenoid I see in the photo has a sticker saying "Chassis" which should control batteries for the driving functions. The solenoid below it should have a like label saying, "House." An easy way to tell is have someone else trip the switch while you hold your finger on the solenoid body. If it's the one you want, you'll feel it switch.

What you're describing would bypass the function of the switch. If you leave the RV not hooked up to shore power for more than a few days you'll drain the batteries. As a temporary measure, you could do as described, but I'd only use a jumper wire or connect both large wires to one post while out getting the proper replacement.
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Old 08-17-2015, 03:50 PM   #3
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The label on the only solenoid I see in the photo has a sticker saying "Chassis" which should control batteries for the driving functions. The solenoid below it should have a like label saying, "House." An easy way to tell is have someone else trip the switch while you hold your finger on the solenoid body. If it's the one you want, you'll feel it switch.

What you're describing would bypass the function of the switch. If you leave the RV not hooked up to shore power for more than a few days you'll drain the batteries. As a temporary measure, you could do as described, but I'd only use a jumper wire or connect both large wires to one post while out getting the proper replacement.
Awesome. I will actually be taking her to burning man, so will need my coach power and dont think I can get a replacement solenoid in time. I will be running the generator once in a while to make sure the batteries are topped up as I also have a 150 watt solar panel array.
So it should be ok to jumper it it seems. I want to use a switch that way if something goes south with the solenoid I can just throw the switch and be back up and running.
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Old 08-17-2015, 04:23 PM   #4
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I am guessing here, but normally both disconnect relays are identical.
They are actually "Latching" relays. Every time you give them a pulse, they switch to the opposite position. Most have 3 control terminals.
Ground, on, off.

This is done so you only draw current when you are switching the batteries in or out.
It never hurts to have a spare, but you could also swap the two relays to see if the problem moves to the other batteries.

I suggest you always disconnect the battery ground cables when working on these things....unless you like to arc-weld your tools to the frame.

Regards,

Dan
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Old 08-17-2015, 05:07 PM   #5
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I thought that looked familiar. Here's what mine looks like. Only one fuse. I had to replace my relay a few months ago because the dash switch would only disconnect battery sometimes, totally intermittent. Relay replacement was a 100% cure.

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Old 08-17-2015, 05:37 PM   #6
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I thought that looked familiar. Here's what mine looks like. Only one fuse. I had to replace my relay a few months ago because the dash switch would only disconnect battery sometimes, totally intermittent. Relay replacement was a 100% cure.

.
Yeah, that looks exactly like mine. So replacing the top one fixed yours?
I found some on Ebay that are in california so I can get them before I go. I think this is the correct one.. but not 100% sure.
Intellitec Battery Disconnect Relay 01 00055 000 Free Shipping | eBay
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Old 08-17-2015, 05:58 PM   #7
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That looks like a match. Just verify it's the correct one of the two installed in that area. As I said, touching the barrel as it is switched, you can feel it clunk over. You'll notice that you have multiple wires at each large post, I'm sure your solenoids are by-passed for certain things deemed needed to be connected despite the power being turned on or off. That's fine except when you store without shore power, you might find your batteries dead. I have knife switches on my batteries to make sure they are disconnected. Of course you have 150 watts of solar, so your's should stay charged in sunlight.
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Old 08-17-2015, 06:34 PM   #8
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Yup, that one will work. For ease of hooking things up correctly, I removed Battery + and - @ the battery. Then removed the mounting screws of the relay and kind of pulled the unit out to where I could have some room to work. Then, one by one, I disconnected from the old and reconnected to the new, just so I would screw things up. Have fun!
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Old 08-17-2015, 06:46 PM   #9
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http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...obalID=EBAY-US
In a pinch you can use one of these. Any auto parts sells them.


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Old 08-17-2015, 07:09 PM   #10
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Thanks everyone! I ordered the ebay one, should get here friday in time for me to install this weekend
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Old 08-17-2015, 07:09 PM   #11
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I am also planning on installing the manual switch as a back up
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Old 08-25-2015, 06:29 PM   #12
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I am also planning on installing the manual switch as a back up
Not sure if you did the fix yet...but be sure you disconnect the negative battery cable on the batteries....just to be safe while working.

Dan
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Old 08-26-2015, 03:20 PM   #13
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Not sure if you did the fix yet...but be sure you disconnect the negative battery cable on the batteries....just to be safe while working.

Dan
I threw the manual disconnect lever in the battery box that disconnected the coach batteries positive connection. I should have disconnected the negative first, cause that would have solved the WHOLE problem. I put in the new latching solenoid, and a manual bypass switch, and it still didnt stay on. I then started taking off the negative connection and BAM the whole thing came on! The connection was too corroded.. (it didnt look very corroded just looking at it, it was all between the pieces) the very first thing I should have checked!! I just didnt think to check that since it was all working fine, and then after I pushed the switch to shut off the coach batteries, thats when this all went bad.
So, cleaning the negative terminal on my coach batteries fixed it lol
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Old 03-16-2017, 11:16 AM   #14
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About to change disconnect switch

Hello.....sorry for adding to a thread from a while back...But have been trying to read all experiences relating to the battery disconnect problems...I am going to attempt to change out mine for chassis I think.. Its a lot of work and hard to get to in our 2000 Rexhall Aerbus. I noticed that changing it did not work until the neg battery cable was cleaned.....if I am understanding correctly.....can you elaborate on this as my neg battery cable feels like the metal is soft and too bendable so have been thinking of replacing it. Wondering if this may have resulted in the battery disconnect not always working...

Thanks for any input.....Ponder
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