Originally Posted by montyhp
I'll check when I install the new set.
Good for you. By the way, when you check that voltage, here's the way I did it, just for info. First, I removed and reinstalled the plug to the head light, several times, as a potential means of cleaning the contacts. Second, the last time I plugged the plug onto the back of the headlight, I left the plug 1/2 off. That is, that left some some exposed tangs but, there was enough connections for all phases of the headlights to work correctly.
Then, I'd setup my volt-ohm meter with a real good ground. I'd leave the engine off, turn the head lights on low beam, and place the positive probe of the VOM on the exposed tang that was the low beam. Take a reading.
Now, start the engine, do the same process and, take a reading. Compare the two readings. The initial reading can be as low as 11.9-12.2V or so. The second reading may pump it up to say, 12.5, maybe 12.7 or 8 or so. These are some average readings I've seen many times, on good 12V systems.
But, at that time of your tests, if you have good access to any good 12V battery, whether it be your coach or chassis battery, link up a wire, at least a 12-14GA wire to the positive post. And that wire needs to be long enough to reach the exposed low beam tang on that head light.
Then, with the engine running, touch that wire to the exposed tang and watch the head light. My guess is that it will not quite double its brightness. Maybe not that much but, it will go brighter, to some degree. If you can, keep that wire on the tang and, take a reading with your volt ohm meter. You'll need to grow another arm for this test. But, that's the way I did it and, in the end, I came up with 13.8-14.0V at the headlight connection and the headlight grew considerably brighter. Just some thoughts for you.