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Old 04-16-2014, 09:59 PM   #15
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I'm getting ready for a similar pour. my neighbor has been in the concrete business for 30 years and though he is not pouring this as it is too small for him. He has provided insight and will provide oversight. So, here is his recommendation to me, 6 inch 3000 lb concrete with #4 rebar on 18 inch centers with reinforced beams under the jacks, all with proper site work and compaction.
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Old 04-23-2014, 08:35 PM   #16
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I am going through the same thing as we speak. Have had two different concrete contractors out this week looking and bidding. I am doing a 18'x60' slab for my 45H Eagle. I did not tell either contractor that the other was coming and let them both tell me what they reccomended for this part of Texas. both gave almost the exact recipe for success. 6" with a 24" perimeter beam, four 24" cross beams and a 24" center beam length wise. 5/8" rebar in the beams, 1/2" on 16" centers and 3000 PSI mix.
All I told them was the coach weight, that I wanted the slab to support it, and that I was not made of gold and my pockets were shallow....lol Both contractors have been doing concrete work in this area for over 40 years each, so I trust their opinion of recommendation. I will say when you start putting that much beam work in the amount of concrete needed goes up tremendously.
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Old 04-23-2014, 10:19 PM   #17
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Rebar is a waste of money if you have a good base underneath. A thickened slab under the jack pads is a good idea. Mrchips, tell your contractor that you do not need a airport runway. BUT....if it makes you feel better, go for it.
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:54 PM   #18
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Rebar will hold the concrete together, so when it cracks it will stay somewhat level,if it don't crack you haven't waited long enough...
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Old 04-24-2014, 07:26 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Rebar is a waste of money if you have a good base underneath. A thickened slab under the jack pads is a good idea. Mrchips, tell your contractor that you do not need a airport runway. BUT....if it makes you feel better, go for it.
I have lived here two weeks, they have been pouring concrete in this area 40+ years. I have to go with what they say is required in this area as far as soil...etc. The only thing that makes me feel better is that each of them said the same thing on two different days without knowing the other was here.
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Old 04-24-2014, 07:38 AM   #20
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Doesn't cost much more to do it right. Follow the pro's advice and do the prep, use steel and make it thick enough. Pavers are great with proper preparation. We spent year in Europe and they pave walks and streets with pavers set on several inches of gravel and an inch or so of sand. Lasts many year if done right. Concrete is easier.
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Old 04-24-2014, 07:56 AM   #21
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Talking New Technology.....

Quote:
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Rebar will hold the concrete together, so when it cracks it will stay somewhat level,if it don't crack you haven't waited long enough...
Fiber in the cement is the "modern day" re-bar and will hold the cement together better than re-bar ever thought of if and when it cracks.......
Re-bar is still used in bridges and large heavy construction jobs cause of the high traffic and weight use and flexing,..........but for a home owner.....
As far as 40 years of experence......"we have always done it this way"(Hear this all the time at work) and it for sure will drive the cost up for your project.......Like always said......"Do what ever makes you sleep good at night"
Re-bar cannot hurt..... but is not nessesary for the home owner in today's "cement projects", use fiber...... and pour it on celotex insulation........with a sand base for the celotex to lay on, with a good compacted crushed bank gravel base.
http://www.propexplus.com/ResourceCe...0Fibermesh.pdf
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Old 04-24-2014, 07:57 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsbear View Post
I'm getting ready for a similar pour. my neighbor has been in the concrete business for 30 years and though he is not pouring this as it is too small for him. He has provided insight and will provide oversight. So, here is his recommendation to me, 6 inch 3000 lb concrete with #4 rebar on 18 inch centers with reinforced beams under the jacks, all with proper site work and compaction.
I concur, with emphasis on the site work preparation. Drainage is another key element. I prepared mine with 8" crushed limestone base and topped it with 1" of gravel to keep it from tracking until I pour the concrete, which I will probably do next year. I elevated my piers for the future concret slab. It has a 1% cross slope and the drainage swale on the high side has a 1% slope from front to back.

Based on a 50' x 26' slab, the difference between 4" and 6" thick concrete will be about 8 CY of concrete. So depending on the price of ready mix delivered to your site. In my case it would be around $720. The labor is virtually a wash because they will be forming and finishing the same area with the same amount of steel.
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