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Old 10-30-2012, 04:10 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
First, with the old Magnetek converters you can not trust your voltmeter.
Can you explain that?

cheers
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:26 PM   #16
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FWIW- My Magnetec converter, same symptoms, voltage at 12.5 - 12.7 volts, Coach batteries not maintaining charge. (4 month new). Replaced with Progressive Dynamics from rvsupply on Ebay. The 9200 series has the Charge Wizard. Best prices I could find. Has several models available.
Progressive Dynamics Inteli Power RV Converter PD9260 | eBay

Piker; Some of the old magnetec converters required a 1000 ohm pre-load resistor (or test lamp)across the meter leads when using a digital voltmeter or the voltage would read 1-2 volts higher than normal. Analog meters do not affect the circuit and do not need a pre-load..
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:37 AM   #17
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FWIW- My Magnetec converter, same symptoms, voltage at 12.5 - 12.7 volts, Coach batteries not maintaining charge. (4 month new). Replaced with Progressive Dynamics from rvsupply on Ebay. The 9200 series has the Charge Wizard. Best prices I could find. Has several models available.
Progressive Dynamics Inteli Power RV Converter PD9260 | eBay

Piker; Some of the old magnetec converters required a 1000 ohm pre-load resistor (or test lamp)across the meter leads when using a digital voltmeter or the voltage would read 1-2 volts higher than normal. Analog meters do not affect the circuit and do not need a pre-load..
So it's a good chance that the 12.7v that I was reading was actually more than what the unit puts out when there is a load on it? Meaning it's even a worse situation than I thought. I noticed with the batteries disconnected - if you turn on a light inside it flashes fairly bright the instant you turn it on, then goes much dimmer and stays there.

Time for a new converter. Maybe I'll get one for Christmas. Thanks for all the help.

cheers
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:07 AM   #18
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Can you explain that?

cheers
Well, Yes, but it helps if you have an education in electrioncs

Short version: The output of the Magnetek is rectified AC. A Volt meter set to DC will thus not read it properly, NOR wil a meter set to AC less the meter is specifically designed to correct the erors the waveform produces.

Now, for those who do not know electroincs.

Normal AC power is a sine wave, AC volt meters come in two types, Peak reading and True RMS..

A True RMS meter uses some electronics to average the voltages so it gives the true reading no matter if you are hooked to a sine wave power or a MSW system.. You should know this already. A Peak reading meter simply displays .7.7 (Square root of 2) the peak voltage

With the older Magnatek converters there was no filtering, This is why you either had to have a battery (one HUGH filter capacitor) or a "Battery Simulator" (A smoewhat smaller filter capicator, also known now days as a "Hardening Condenser" at high end audio shops) or they do not work right

The DC volt meter tends to block the half-wave AC form of the Magnetek output, it may, however, read a portion of the voltage, Usually the good old .707 bit, So if you see 12 volts, you might actually have peaks in the 16-17 volt range.

To fix.. Simply add a filter capacitor to the output Any capicator with about a 20 volt ratind, as big as you can lay your hands on, should smooth it enough to make the meter read more accurately.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:35 AM   #19
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This might help: http://www.parallaxpower.com/6300/linear_flwchrt.pdf

Heres the main page for manuals and tech info, includes magnetec
PPS LINEAR CONVERTERS
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:58 PM   #20
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Well, Yes, but it helps if you have an education in electrioncs

Short version: The output of the Magnetek is rectified AC. A Volt meter set to DC will thus not read it properly, NOR wil a meter set to AC less the meter is specifically designed to correct the erors the waveform produces.

Now, for those who do not know electroincs.

Normal AC power is a sine wave, AC volt meters come in two types, Peak reading and True RMS..

A True RMS meter uses some electronics to average the voltages so it gives the true reading no matter if you are hooked to a sine wave power or a MSW system.. You should know this already. A Peak reading meter simply displays .7.7 (Square root of 2) the peak voltage

With the older Magnatek converters there was no filtering, This is why you either had to have a battery (one HUGH filter capacitor) or a "Battery Simulator" (A smoewhat smaller filter capicator, also known now days as a "Hardening Condenser" at high end audio shops) or they do not work right

The DC volt meter tends to block the half-wave AC form of the Magnetek output, it may, however, read a portion of the voltage, Usually the good old .707 bit, So if you see 12 volts, you might actually have peaks in the 16-17 volt range.

To fix.. Simply add a filter capacitor to the output Any capicator with about a 20 volt ratind, as big as you can lay your hands on, should smooth it enough to make the meter read more accurately.
So you're sayin' I DO have to have a battery connected in order to check voltage then?

It never ceases to amaze me... the wealth of knowledge that can be found on forums like these. thanks very much for taking the time to post that response... though I'm not certain I got any more edumacation than I had before I read dat...

cheers
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:22 PM   #21
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So I checked the voltage at the converter with a battery hooked to it. The battery by itself read about 12.65 volts. When I turned the switch to connect it to the converter, the voltage still read about 12.65 volts. I'm guessing this is bad news... that the magenetek is done for, yes?

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Old 10-31-2012, 08:41 PM   #22
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Not necessarily. You need make sure it is getting 120 volts AC and that no fuses or breakers are blown/tripped. There should be either on the unit and/or some in your Battery Control Center.
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:56 PM   #23
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Not necessarily. You need make sure it is getting 120 volts AC and that no fuses or breakers are blown/tripped. There should be either on the unit and/or some in your Battery Control Center.
Volt reading at the outlet on the motorhome where the converter is plugged into is 117v. There doesn't appear to be any blown fuses or tripped breakers... everything works throughout the motorhome on both the 12v and 120v circuits.

And juice is definitely getting from the converter to the battery... when I disconnect the battery, I get about 11.5 volts on the meter... which as stated in a prior post is probably a bogus reading.

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Old 10-31-2012, 09:04 PM   #24
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If the batteries have "rested" overnight and the voltage doesn't increase when you turn on the converter, it is probably kaput.
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:08 PM   #25
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If the batteries have "rested" overnight and the voltage doesn't increase when you turn on the converter, it is probably kaput.
Ya, I had taken the batteries out on sunday and put them on a separate slow charger... they've been sitting in the garage "resting" as you say since monday night I believe.

Ok... so I'm back to replacing the converter... no biggie. Thanks again everyone.

-cheers
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:09 PM   #26
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On my Magnateks in the MH and 5er, there was a potentiometer on the circuit board that was easily adjusted to set the output charging voltage - dunno if they all have that or not...

IN any event, the one in our '88 Winnie MH was causing flickering lights, so I replaced it with a new setup with the latest-greatest 45 amp output and charging/maintenance voltage, and no more issues...
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:47 PM   #27
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Our 12 year old Magnetik model 7455 55amp converter still works great with measured output at batteries of 13.6vdc.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:40 AM   #28
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So how did you get the recommended 14.8 volts Trojan wants?? Thanks Don
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