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Old 10-23-2013, 07:00 PM   #1
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Cracked shower pan

Fleetwood Bounder 38F Diesel Pusher. Has a rear semi circular shower with glass doors and ..I guess.....plastic pan and wall coverings. The base below the pan has a hole cut to allow the pan drain to go thru. Seems the sub base drain hole was much bigger than the pan drain and allowed for flexing around the pan drain. Over time this flexing caused the area around the pan drain to crack. So..now the pan leaks. I have the leak under control..but the pan needs replaced or repaired. Fleetwood can special order a new pan. But I am looking for some input.
Has anybody ever replaced a MH shower pan and how hard is it.
Are there other options....on repair guy I know said he had a client with a similar problem have a local company make a poured "marble" over lay. Never heard of this.
Any suggestions.
Thanks
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:20 PM   #2
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Not an easy fix......when it comes to these repairs the shortcut is always tempting but seldom wise....the correct fix .......remove the shower door, remove the handles, remove the walls, remove the pan......Inspect under the pan, make all repairs (there was a leak) reinstall everything, I would purchase new walls as well, the old walls might crack during removal.....As far as overlay , shortcut repairs, it's a roll of the dice.....
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:02 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GENECOP View Post
Not an easy fix......when it comes to these repairs the shortcut is always tempting but seldom wise....the correct fix .......remove the shower door, remove the handles, remove the walls, remove the pan......Inspect under the pan, make all repairs (there was a leak) reinstall everything, I would purchase new walls as well, the old walls might crack during removal.....As far as overlay , shortcut repairs, it's a roll of the dice.....
I gotta say, I'm with GENECOP on this one. I'm certainly no construction expert here but, if this were mine, I'd most likely "tear it all out" as suggested. Not a pretty "picture to picture" so to speak. I can suggest an alternative and, you can judge for yourself if it has merit or not. Long story short. On the way home from a jeep trip called the "Rubicon", up in the California Sierra mountains, we were cruising down the grapevine on I-5 and, "BANG", I blew one of the rear duals on the passenger side.

Well, it took out or, I should say, it severely damaged my grey water tank, and beat the heck out of the bottom of my shower pan support to the point that it cracked my shower pan in several spots. Well, in the search for the best but, easiest repair for the shower, which was plastic too, I simply decided to "overlay" fiberglass on it.

I used a sander, a 6" disc one, to scuff up the plastic for the total square footage of the pan. Then, I simply layed in the glass, and coated it with resin. When that cured, which was in about two hours or less, I did it all again. When I was all done with the repair process, I painted it with some white paint that was, I think some sort of Marine stuff that was tough as nails but, somewhat flexible too and, of course, could handle a seriously wet environment.

That shower pan, when done, was like walking on a tile floor, on a concrete slab. It was probably about 10-12 times stronger than it was originally.

The big question, "How did it actually look"??? Well, sure, it wasn't near as nice as a factory, injection molded, perfect shower pan but, it wasn't that bad either and, most folks that I showed the repair to, almost could not tell it was ever damaged.

So, this is just something to think about. I would not blame you for doing the total rip-out and replacement. Everyone wants a nice looking and functioning repair. Good luck. Let us all know what you do and how it looks when done.

Scott
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:36 PM   #4
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I can't offer advice, but because I happen to own an '08 38F Bounder DP, I'm following along. Not sure if this will help others envision the pan - and assuming we have the same shower - this is the best pic I have.
Click image for larger version

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I hope this helps - and I'm sorry to hear of your problem. Fingers crossed here, for us both!
Steve
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Old 10-24-2013, 02:50 AM   #5
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Cracked shower pan

Yep..that's the exact shower...thanks. You can see the drain in the front. Around the drain is springy and the, crack is circular around the drain.
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:03 AM   #6
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Cracked shower pan

I guess the process is..,,,
Remove the doors, track,etc.
Remove faucets,etc.
Remove shower wall surrounds
Detach drain from under coach
Remove pan
Fix to large drain hole
Reverse to assemble
Pretty straight forward....the only consideration is how to remove wall surrounds. I think they are "spot" attached to the wall so a sharp putty knife should break the bond. Hoping that's true.
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:16 AM   #7
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Are you sure its plastic? If it's fiberglass , it can be repaired .
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:26 AM   #8
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Are you sure its plastic? If it's fiberglass , it can be repaired .
I was wondering the same thing. I would give FW Owners Service Line a call. They will chase it down for you. Just a thought.
Steve
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:26 AM   #9
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Cracked pan

I'll check but I think it's plastic or acrylic
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:01 AM   #10
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Cracked Shower Pan

I just responded to a previous thread about replacing the diverter valve. As I said there, I removed the shower wall and could have easily removed the pan as well. I have a Winnebago Journey DL 2001 and I can buy about anything to replace from winnebagoparts.com. Your mh probably has such a replacement web site.

Anyway, it took me maybe two days or less to pull the doors, enclosure, and shower out. Then pull off the two sided tape on the back and replace the diverter valve and then put it all back. I have to say you cannot tell anything was done to it... it looks good.

I have pictures and can tell you more detail it this would help.

Dan dlboarman@bellsouth.net
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Old 10-24-2013, 03:16 PM   #11
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Cracked pan

Pan and surround are plastic
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Old 10-24-2013, 03:23 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by bandmbrown
Pan and surround are plastic
Did you get a price on a complete replacement? Or pan only price assuming it can all be pulled without destroying it?
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Old 10-24-2013, 03:45 PM   #13
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Cracked pan

They don't have the original color...new color appears a bit darker.
Was quoted $239 for the pan plus shipping from Michigan. Got a wall price but didn't seem correct so we are checking the entire part number, etc. So we get the correct part. Appears the pan part # is correct.
I'll post part numbers, colors, and prices when I'm positive what they are.
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Old 10-24-2013, 04:40 PM   #14
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They don't have the original color...new color appears a bit darker.
Was quoted $239 for the pan plus shipping from Michigan. Got a wall price but didn't seem correct so we are checking the entire part number, etc. So we get the correct part. Appears the pan part # is correct.
I'll post part numbers, colors, and prices when I'm positive what they are.
On a scale of 1- 10 I would guess it is about an 7 or 8, if you are a fairly handy do it yourself type. We have done ours three times. Twice, until we figured out why it was cracking.

Check PPL : RV Parts and Accessories for Sale - PPL Motor Homes They might do better price wise and are good folks to work with.
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