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RVNeophytes2 · 01-04-2012, 06:48 PM

It seems 2005 was a baaaad year for double-pane windows. Numerous owners of that vintage report fogged panes.

Of all the windows on our Fleetwood, only two or three are not seriously fogged.

Using a fountain pump and turkey baster, I squirted dishwasher soap and hot sudsy water in between two panes, rinsed and injected Jet Dry. The heat gun mostly dried it out, but telltale watermarks and some moisture remained.

The experiment created an improvement, the but the results weren't to my satisfaction.

Then, I picked up the phone and called the local glass shop with whom I've done business for more than two decades.

They said if I could remove the panes, they'd happily build new ones. "It's not cost-effective, using the old glass," the owner said. "They'd just start leaking again, anyway."

So, armed with a heat gun and plastic putty knife, I mounted the ladder and started stabbing away, between the flange and the bus' fiberglass. Gently working a gap along the bottom of the frame and up each side, I finally pulled it so that the caulk along the top formed a hinge of sorts.

Scoring that caulk with the knife gradually led to the window releasing into my arms, all 50 lbs of it.

This might be a good deal for the DYI crowd, if your glass shops are willing. I mean, the total cost per window could average $120 per window; and, it gives me a chance to put in fresh seals and re-caulk the entire thing for absolute weather-tightness.

Stay tuned...

Photo: The sides release, and I suddenly have a swing-out window. Ooooo... On the verge of success!

ahicks · 01-04-2012, 07:24 PM

You used this process after you removed the glass from the frame?

RVNeophytes2 · 01-04-2012, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ahicks

You used this process after you removed the glass from the frame?

No, before. The logic: that I could "scrub" all windows that had an exposed gasket edge.

Only after I'd determined it to produce unsatisfactory results, I opted to pull the window.

As others have shown, scrubbing the interior can be done, with the right combination of equipment and chemicals. But, I didn't want to get too serious about it, since the same ol' busted gaskets remain. This way, I'll have a new window, with argon between panes.

Bruce C · 01-05-2012, 05:03 AM

Let us know what the final cost is. I'll have to do my side windows, for better vision.
__________________
Bruce & Nancy, Sasha rescued Siberian Husky
2004 Bounder 35e
US Navy Vet.

JimM68 · 01-06-2012, 12:14 PM

Just call atwood. Beverly will fis you right up.

wardy · 01-06-2012, 12:26 PM

I question the virtue of having double pane's in the cockpit. Even when they are intact you get internal reflectance that effect's the view. Why not just use laminated safety low-e glass? I somewhat hate double pain windows. This is my second rig with them and they all eventually fail... again and again. Seems like there could be a better option.

zeelarry · 01-15-2012, 04:12 PM

And here I sit, in my MH, wishing I had double pane windows during the cold mornings. I guess they fail just like the cheap ones in a stick built house.

BTW, single pane glass also cause an inside reflection when driving.

rosek · 01-23-2012, 10:54 AM

On our 2001 Winnebago we had the passenger side window all fogged up so could not see mirrors to see what was on side. We live in southern Ohio and the prices we got for someone to do was High... So we thought we would go the DIY route. We used your directions on how to get window out. We found a gentleman here in Bethel, Ohio that we took the window to him, he made a template and cut glass, then another place dual seals the glass plus we had a slight tint put on. We then replaced the window and it is great, I can see my rear mirrows. So for people in this area who want to go this method.
Name is Bob Minton, Mintons glass, Bethel, Ohio 513-734-2006.
He also will do the whole job but only in the warmer months. Does not have a big door garage to pull in. We were ready to go to Florida to have it done but dreaded the ride without being able to see on that side.
Oh the price was not bad at all. A whole lot cheaper then dealer.

buck62 · 01-23-2012, 11:05 AM

It is not limited to Fleetwood but all with Se-GI windows. I had three repaired at Suncoast Designers in Hudson, Florida. They remove the old windows and take them apart, clean and put in new seals. If the window is etched and cannot be cleaned then they have common size panes in stock. Total cost $250 for drivers side and $200 for all other sliders with a 5 year pro rated warranty. If I need any more I wil be going there. They have about 20 -30 RV hook up spots and I saw every manufacturer motorhome there getting new windows.

Steve N Sal · 01-23-2012, 11:13 AM

Hothing worse then fogged windows. Dealt with those on our previous Fleetwood product as well. Have a friend just three lots down from us that has an 08 American Tradition and guess what? Fogged windows. It sure is a shame that they just can't get this right. Hope all works out for you. By the way nice picture.

SargeW · 01-23-2012, 11:35 AM

I don't think it's a matter of getting it right, it's a matter of finding some material that will stand up to the shaking and bumping that the windows endure on every trip. I am sure that the manufactures would love to have fool proof method to fix the issue.

RVNeophytes2 · 01-24-2012, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ahicks

You used this process after you removed the glass from the frame?

No, before. The glass comes out in the shop.

RVNeophytes2 · 01-24-2012, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buck62

It is not limited to Fleetwood but all with Se-GI windows. Total cost $250 for drivers side and $200 for all other sliders with a 5 year pro rated warranty.

After having a contractor refuse to do the work -- the glass is too thin, they said -- and other quoting me $600-$700 for my three-pane bedroom window, I tore into it myself.

The sealing strip is about $5 and I've used $2 worth of glazing sealant; some pocket change for razor blades, MEK, Xylol, Denatured Alcohol and Windex.

Fleetwood/Hehr used two 6mmX6mm strips between panes, I think that was their downfall. I'm laying down a single 3/8" seal set 1/16" in, then a sealing layer of the rubbery glazing sealant on top of the strip, something the original manufacturer failed to do. That's after bathing the interior with Argon gas.

We'll see...

Photo: Vent window pane gets is final sealant after gassing

RVNeophytes2 · 01-25-2012, 02:21 AM

I don't think I mentioned that Fleetwood/Hehr just had the seal, no supplemental sealant.

Pic: The vents are mounted and curing with an inward tilt to assure snugness, the main pane is mounted. The whole unit will be reinstalled and field-tested next week. Then, I'll pull the smaller/easier front windows whose fogging is a safety issue.