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Old 01-10-2015, 07:20 AM   #15
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De-winterizing on the road.

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Originally Posted by Alan Wilson View Post
I have done the compressed air thing before on an Airstream TT I had. I used a 5HP compressor attached to a 30 gallon tank with the line regulated to 45 PSI and connected to the inlet water supply line for a water hose.

I went from faucet to faucet then stool and shower until I thought I had all water out of all the lines. This is quite a time consuming process.

Next spring i de-winterize and add water to find I have leaks under the floor between the stool and shower.

I spend my camping weekend tearing out the stool (Luckily not the shower) and the floor it sat on to repair the burst water line. It was just a little droop in the line where enough water collected in the lowest part of the line to freeze it. I know people have used this method successfully many times but I have not. I got to do that all over again on my fifth wheel when I got it. Way too much work for that method for me. I use the pink stuff after using the air. I have to have it for the drains anyway. I am thinking this next winter I will just take it to a good shop and not worry about it. I know, shops freeze lines too but they are younger and better equipped to fix it than I am. That is my opinion and worth every penny it cost you. Lol! 😄


Alan Wilson

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With all due respect, I think that comment "I thought I had all the water out" is the key.

I specifically said "let each run till there's no more MIST coming out, just air. After each outlet has been drained like that I start all over again with each outlet including the toilet.". Skip this step, or just not have enough pressure or volume of air and your experience is the result.

If the process is done correctly there is no way there could be enough water left to freeze and burst a pipe.

I must admit, I'm at a total loss of how the process could be described as "quite a time consuming process" though. I doubt it takes me 10 minutes including rigging up the air line.
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Old 01-10-2015, 07:48 AM   #16
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So when you de-winterize do you dump it in a rv dump site or just run it out on the ground? I end up running it out on the ground because with my old 5-er the tanks don't hold near enough to empty the fresh water tank. I always wondered if that was safe?
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Old 01-10-2015, 07:52 AM   #17
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let each run till there's no more mist coming out, just air. After each outlet has been drained like that I start all over again with each outlet including the toilet.

HAHA yep don't forget the crapper! I did on my first camper. Then couldn't figure out why its leaking the next summer.
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Old 01-10-2015, 07:55 AM   #18
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When winterized your fresh water tank should be empty! And once you DE winterize I would suggest the pink stuff is not going to hurt you. And if you run a few gallons of water out all faucets there wont be any left.
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Old 01-10-2015, 08:13 AM   #19
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It is empty but when I de-winterize I fill the tank half full or so with a 1/4 or 1/3 cup of bleach to rinse everything out. IT takes more because of the water heater. There is no bypass or drain anywhere I can find so it takes a couple gallons more pink stuff and just that much longer to clean out. No big deal pink is cheap. My 5er is 1978. They did things different back then I guess.

Sorry Stan&jacquie I didn't mean to hijack your thread.
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Old 01-10-2015, 02:57 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Murf2u View Post
With all due respect, I think that comment "I thought I had all the water out" is the key.

I specifically said "let each run till there's no more MIST coming out, just air. After each outlet has been drained like that I start all over again with each outlet including the toilet.". Skip this step, or just not have enough pressure or volume of air and your experience is the result.

If the process is done correctly there is no way there could be enough water left to freeze and burst a pipe.

I must admit, I'm at a total loss of how the process could be described as "quite a time consuming process" though. I doubt it takes me 10 minutes including rigging up the air line.

How I did it just like you say to do it. I made a rotation from all the inside faucets to the outside and back inside. I repeated this at least three times. After getting to fix two pipes frozen twice I went to blowing them out and then putting in antifreeze. Problem solved. It has just not worked for me to use only air and running in and out and around was a pain. I will start letting a shop do mine from now on. As far as putting poison in my lines I don't care as I only use coach water to shower and flush water.


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Old 01-10-2015, 03:15 PM   #21
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I did the air thing a couple of years then had a cracked valve body. Since then I went back to blowing out the water then hitting it with antifreeze. Takes less time as really blowing out all the water lines takes a lot of time watching the air blow. Blowing out the water than adding antifreeze at the worst results in some dilution from residual water. Set the HW tank bypass first and the only stuff in the HW tank will be a bit of residual from exercising each valve with the lines full of antifreeze to make sure the valve cores are full of antifreeze.

I leave the plug out of the HW tank until I de winterize. That way I can let water flow out of the plug hole to clear residue from the tank. Fill the tank with the correct amount of bleach and water and the turn on the pump. Run each faucet until water clears. Last thing is to switch the HW bypass off and let the water run through the tank. Turn off pump and go around and put the plug back in. Pump back on and let the HW flow until the air finishes burping out. Let things sit until the next day or so and then dump water tank and refill. Run some more water to clear the bleach and use bottled water for the first couple of days if I can taste the anti freeze.

FWIW the stuff they sell for camper antifreeze they also sell as a food additive. Read labels. ;-)
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Old 01-10-2015, 03:20 PM   #22
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On my gasser I always used compressed air to get out the water. I had a water heater bypass so I did not fill it with pink stuff. After blow out I used 3 gallons of pink and was done in about 30 minutes. With my newer Diesel with Hydro-Hot I carefully blow out the water then add (10 gallons) pink potable antifreeze. This as per Hydro-Hot specs. Some folks then open the drain lines and drain the pink back into the jugs for reuse. So far I have not attempted that.
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Old 01-10-2015, 03:26 PM   #23
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Yes, BUT, let me first emphasize that the pressure of the air alone means nothing compared to the VOLUME of air at a given pressure.

I run a regulated air supply at 50 psi off a compressor big enough to maintain that pressure with at least one tap open continuously.

I hook it up to the city water inlet (not the tank fill port) and then open the various outlets starting with the one furthest from the inlet and let each run till there's no more mist coming out, just air. After each outlet has been drained like that I start all over again with each outlet including the toilet.

When the system is drained like this there is no need for pink stuff, nor sanitizing again before use.
Does this include the Aqua Hot system? New coach and have not winterized it yet. Instructions say pink for aqua hot.
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Old 01-10-2015, 04:37 PM   #24
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Ok, I'm not going to say one way or the other, but for those that use an air compressor are you filtering the air? because alot of air compressors will have all kinds of junk coming out like oil ect, as a compressor ages the rings get a bigger gap and allow oil to be sucked in to the air stream. I ran a water trap and a filter on my compressor so as not to contaminate the paint.
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Old 01-10-2015, 07:36 PM   #25
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Terry- Good point !
My in shop compressor does have a water separator and I use 40 lbs of pressure to blow out all of the lines and Just put the Pink Stuff in the P-Traps including cycling the Washer/Dryer. I have never had a problem with pipes freezing up.
Those that tend to over analyze this type of procedure for winterizing need to read up on Winterizing Your Motor Home Options !
By the way I've used the Air Blow out System the last 20 yrs.
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