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Old 07-24-2010, 03:50 PM   #15
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We are talking about an engine that has sat for 9 years? Is the timing chain frozen in spots making the distributor jump out of time for number 7 or possibly the number 7 cam lobe in the distributor has some hardened lube etc on it that is making the points stay open too long making the spark a bit late?

When did Chrysler switch to the Prestolite electronic distributor we are talking points and condenser here right?
1973 I think?

Timing chain should be fine. I think. Will have to check that when I tear it down.

We are not talking points here. It has that electronic distributor with the 8-point star inside.
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Old 07-24-2010, 03:53 PM   #16
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Yes, Niel, this Minnie Winnie sat in the hot San Diego sun for 9 years. Everyone says it ran perfectly when it was parked. I believe them. The old plugs also agree with their statement.
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Old 07-24-2010, 04:52 PM   #17
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Yes, Niel, this Minnie Winnie sat in the hot San Diego sun for 9 years. Everyone says it ran perfectly when it was parked. I believe them. The old plugs also agree with their statement.
Look for some foreign objects, such as mouse habitats, inside the intake manifold. If that one port is filled with garbage, it won't ever get enough air/fuel to fire. It would also explain the oil-soaked plug in that cylinder, it's sucking oil past the rings with the vacuum produced.
I also had a Ford that liked to break intake rocker arms, and it would cause the same problem. If you happen to have the cylinder at the bottom of its compression stroke when you connect the gauge, it will still show good compression--once.
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Old 07-24-2010, 08:54 PM   #18
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tmh,

I don't think oil is on the plug. It is a little wet with gas and the ceramic is stained, not coated, black. The plug whiffs of gas, not oil.

When I pulled off the VC the rockers were clean and appeared to operate through the full cycle.

When I changed the oil the 9 year old oil was almost clear. The rockers and top of head were very clean. I was pleasantly surprised to see that. This engine was well taken care of...before it was parked. After it was parked it was ignored for 9 years until I got my hands on it.

I've driven it 75 miles, all short stop and go trips, and it burned half of a 50 gallon tank.
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Old 07-24-2010, 10:28 PM   #19
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9 years? can't believe it didn't spin a bearing when you fired it. can't wait to hear the fix. good luck!
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Old 07-24-2010, 11:23 PM   #20
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If you burned 25 gallons of gas in 75 miles maybe your just flooding #7 cylinder and its going out the exahust port. Maybe that carburator is sticking and needs rebuilding?

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Old 07-24-2010, 11:54 PM   #21
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Just sounds to me that if your #7 plug is wet from gas and #7 is the rear cylinder, the carb float could be sticking or totaly bad and allowing fuel to run back to the rear #7 cylinder flooding out that cylinder. My 1962 vette with 327 V8 would do the same thing until I finally got the float in the carb set right.

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Old 07-25-2010, 05:11 AM   #22
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9 years? can't believe it didn't spin a bearing when you fired it. can't wait to hear the fix. good luck!
I spun up the oil pressure and bumped it a few revolutions before firing her up. Also squirted oil in each bore beforehand. Glad I did. Didn't occur to me a bearing could have spun.

Had to pour about a half gallon of fuel down the carb to keep her running until the fuel pump started delivering.
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Old 07-25-2010, 05:12 AM   #23
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If you burned 25 gallons of gas in 75 miles maybe your just flooding #7 cylinder and its going out the exahust port. Maybe that carburator is sticking and needs rebuilding?

Sammie
I'll bet you are right. I will be rebuilding the carb, or if we have the cash I'll stick an Edelbrock on it.
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:04 AM   #24
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1973 I think?

Timing chain should be fine. I think. Will have to check that when I tear it down.

We are not talking points here. It has that electronic distributor with the 8-point star inside.

Those early electronic units could be troublesome especially if it has the LeanBurn Control System. Those took some special skills to get running right when they got out of wack. Well maybe not skills but rather knowledge.
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:01 AM   #25
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My question would be is what is the compression of the other 6 cyls. Your comparing two adjacent cyls 50# and 130# and one that doesn't fire up. You should know what the average is on the other cyls. You failed the test because the HC was way out of wack. CO is mixture and HC is unburned fuel. You say that #5 has a burnt exh valve, I question that, could have worn rings.

If you brought it to my shop I would start with a complete compression test. Run the engine to warm it up, remove the plugs and keep them in order so you can look for soot (looking for a rich mixture) To eliminate the Carb. I would then replace # 7 cyl plug and wire from #8 cyl to see if the skip was gone. Still skipping I would invert the Dist cap and look for a tracer line from #7 pin to ground, going from the pin to the edge of the distributor edge. I doubt that the timing chain is the problem. I will be watching this thread to see how your doing. What ever you do,don't throw parts at it or you'll go broke. Good luck.

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Old 07-25-2010, 03:51 PM   #26
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Look for some foreign objects, such as mouse habitats, inside the intake manifold. If that one port is filled with garbage, it won't ever get enough air/fuel to fire.
If the engine was completely assembled, (carburetor and air filter in place), there isn;t a mouse/spider/wasp on earth that could get past the closed throttle plates in the base of the carburetor. Cylinder #7 has good compression, so there is NO blockage in the intake tract.

Now I suppose in a 9 year period, a spider might be able to crawl up through the tailpipe/muffler/catalytic convertor (if so equipped), then through cylinder #7 exhaust valve (if it happened to be open when last shut off, and then through the intake valve (if it was open during the overlap portion of the valve train cycle, but that is so far fetched, I would never consider it.
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:51 PM   #27
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Scarecoupe,

1- 130 psi
3- 138 psi
5- 50 psi
7- 135 psi

2- 132 psi
4- 130 psi
6- 135 psi
8- 140 psi

The first thing I did after failing smog was to run a compression test. I pulled all plugs, held the throttle wide open, and gave each cylinder 6 full compression cycles.

When I first changed all the plugs, I labeled all the old ones, inspecting each one. They all looked exactly the same. They were all tan with a thin film of carbon buildup. The plugs were a dark tan, a tad closer to being brown that tan, which leads me to believe the TQ was running slightly rich when he parked it 9 years ago.

The #2 plug had enough carbon buildup running up the side of the side of the electrode to a point where it closed the gap to about .020".

To further test #5 I shot about 1 ounce of motor oil (2 pumps from an engineers oiler can) in to the cylinder then tested it again. There was no change. Still 50 psi.

I put all the plugs back in, except for #5. The compression gauge was in it. I started the engine and it ran 50 psi at idle. I floored the accelerator and it went to 60 psi.

I used to compression gauges, one NAPA brand and one is a Snap On brand. Both gave identical readings in every identical test.

The exhaust has a slight chuffing sound at idle and idles kinda smooth at about 750-800 rpm, but when you drop it in gear, the idle roughens and there is a good amount of chuffing.

The vacuum gauge is rock solid at all times.

To eliminate the TQ you advised using the plug and wire from #8. Did you mean swap the cables and plugs, maintaining proper firing order, or swap the firing of 7 & 8?

I did swap the firing with 5&7 and also stuck 5's cable and plug on 7 and put 7's on 5, maintaining proper firing order.

Please advise.
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:55 PM   #28
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If the engine was completely assembled, (carburetor and air filter in place), there isn;t a mouse/spider/wasp on earth that could get past the closed throttle plates in the base of the carburetor. Cylinder #7 has good compression, so there is NO blockage in the intake tract.

Now I suppose in a 9 year period, a spider might be able to crawl up through the tailpipe/muffler/catalytic convertor (if so equipped), then through cylinder #7 exhaust valve (if it happened to be open when last shut off, and then through the intake valve (if it was open during the overlap portion of the valve train cycle, but that is so far fetched, I would never consider it.
When I first looked at this engine, I actually did a visual examination for even longshots in the dark like that. It was clean.

I've started to disassemble and am taking tons of pictures. Used to be able to memorize where everything went. Nowadays? Not a chance.

Had I known I was going to live this long I would have taken better care of myself.
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