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Old 02-23-2016, 08:09 PM   #1
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Deep cycle chassis batteries

My 06 Safari 40PMT came out of a long time in hiding from the previous owner's bank with two rather fresh 12v deep cycle batteries in parallel installed in the chassis position; installed by a less than reputable rv dealer who sold the repo to me at a significant discount. Question: Deep cycle batteries in the chassis position? Is that acceptable?? I thought you had to have starting batteries in the chassis position. It has four rather fresh 6V batteries installed in the coach position.
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:59 PM   #2
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See if you can find out if they list CCA, (cold cranking amps), on them.

If they do, add them up and see what the engine requires. You may be ok with them.
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Old 02-23-2016, 09:01 PM   #3
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What brand and model of batteries? There are definitely some that can do double duty as starting batteries. The first is the "marine /deep cycle". They are made to start boat engines, and/or run trolling motors. AGM type deep cycles have such low internal resistance, they can easily supply the amps to start engines as well.
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Old 02-24-2016, 02:21 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyMac View Post
My 06 Safari 40PMT came out of a long time in hiding from the previous owner's bank with two rather fresh 12v deep cycle batteries in parallel installed in the chassis position; installed by a less than reputable rv dealer who sold the repo to me at a significant discount. Question: Deep cycle batteries in the chassis position? Is that acceptable?? I thought you had to have starting batteries in the chassis position. It has four rather fresh 6V batteries installed in the coach position.
TonyMac,
First off, since apparently you've just purchased this coach, right? May I ask, how well has it been starting so far? Have you started it, drove it, used it at any length so far? What I'm getting at here is, even though there are "Deep Cycle" batteries in the starting position, if they've been working to your satisfaction and have not let you down yet, and appear to be doing the job, when why mess with them?

I mean, there's two ways to go at this.

1. Simply decide that they are NOT supposed to be in that position, regardless of how well they are performing to date and, purchase some new, regular cranking batteries.

2. Save yourself some money and, LEAVE them and keep note on any performance changes, if any. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 02-24-2016, 05:35 PM   #5
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Scott has the right idea. Why mess with them if they are spinning the starter and engine fast enough? There are purists out there who will scoff at scorn about the type batteries etc but the bottom line is if they work.
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Old 02-24-2016, 05:53 PM   #6
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Instead of asking here why not read up on the differences with either the manufacturer site or one of the places like Battery University? There you get facts instead of opinions.
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Old 02-24-2016, 06:15 PM   #7
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Scott,
Good points, along my line of thinking. What got me interested is these batteries seem to not hold a charge. I charged them up, positive charger to one battery, negative charger to the other battery, and they came up to full charge. Then the charger switched to float, but the charger quit and gave me a fault code that the charger could not hold the batteries at 100% on float. I hooked up the charger again the very next evening, it showed about 60% charge, and charged them both to 100% again, and then disconnected one ground, essentially isolating them. Twelve hours later, one was 11.02v the other was 10.4v. I have since removed both and placed them on chargers on my bench. I'll again charge both to 100%, disconnect the chargers and wait 12 hours for the top charge to settle and see what I have for volts.


The book says it requires two 12v Grp 31p 950cca 195rc batteries. These deep cycles are Grp 29 675cca with no rc listed. I've owned this coach for 1.5 years, the batteries looked fairly clean and new but I have no idea how fresh they were. They have just recently failed to start the coach, and that was after my former service center, Darrin Bideoux RV in Ogden, UT, left everything on until all 6 batteries, coach and chassis, were flat dead. The chassis batteries have never been the same and the coach batteries don't seem as strong either.


I'm thinking if I need to replace the damaged chassis deep cycle batteries, so I should go to starting batteries to get the higher cca recommended by the book. What advantage would I get from the lesser cca deep cycle batteries?
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Old 02-24-2016, 06:31 PM   #8
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I bought 4 - 925 CCA batteries for our rig at a FL truck repair shop. They were on sale for just under $80 each. Our ISX is a real bear to start, now I find out the batteries were probably OK but (being the OEM they were suspect anyway) I should have replaced the OEM starter with a Denso geared unit.
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Old 02-24-2016, 06:49 PM   #9
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If you have a DP get 2 group 31 batteries that have at least 950 CA. Not every auto store carries them.

I replaced my two 9 year old chassis batteries last summer with 950 CCA at 0 and 1040 CA at 32. Got them at a Farm Supply store. Total with tax was $185.28
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Old 02-24-2016, 07:54 PM   #10
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If you don't start the coach in weather below 32 degrees, you can probably get by well enough if the MCA (not CCA) is in the 900+ range. The difference between MCA and CCA is cold weather performance.

As for deep cycle vs cranking types, you don't need to worry about that as long as the CCA (or MCA, per my earlier comment) meets the requirements.

In any case, it sounds as though the batteries you have are toast. Probably some clunkers the dealer had lying around.
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Old 02-24-2016, 07:58 PM   #11
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TonyMac,
Well Sir, it sounds as if that your deep cycle starting batteries may be going south for the winter and, not planning on returning in the spring. I've always been lead to believe that, when it comes time for replacement of a starting battery, try and get a larger/capacity/higher CCA than what the original one was.

And the primary reason is, the entire starting system which includes all wiring, all cables, the starter, and anything in between, is AGED. And that means there's more resistance in the total system now, then there was when the vehicle/coach was new. So, a larger, stronger battery (set of batteries) helps in overcoming the potential aged process and, potential added resistance.

So, if you decide to toss those deep cycles, and go for new starting ones, then definitely go for the largest that will fit in your specific area for them. I just bought (about 6 months ago) two 980 CCA Dekas for ours. Man, that CAT C-7 spins up a storm now. Good luck.
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Old 02-24-2016, 09:21 PM   #12
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The batteries are toast...Or the charger is...

A good battery only requires 0.1% C to float where C is the 8 hour rated amp hour capacity.

So if you have something from a group 27 or so size then assume 100 amp hour so the float charge would be 0.1% of 100 or 0.1amp.

A harbor freight lawnmower floater can do about an amp so it can float the battery fine if it is disconnected.

Check them with a hydrometer and all cells should read same.

Connect a charger and look for bubbles and see if any cell is much different that the others.
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