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Old 02-26-2013, 07:03 AM   #1
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Detailers or Weekend Waxers-Doesn't Matter, Come On In

I've detailed many cars and motorcycles over the years and wanted to start a thread to share some of my knowledge and hopefully stir some good conversation with you good folks in here on how you detail your coaches and toads. By reading some of the posts in here there are some creative and great ways to do it. Share your thoughts. Nothing negative as everyone has there own ideas of how they do things.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:16 AM   #2
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As the weather will be in the mid-seventies this weekend, I am going to tackle the motor home and wash and hopefully wax it over the next several days...it'll be my first time and it seems daunting at best.

I have a variety of products that I use in detailing including dry wash for the front cap, which I've found to help with bug removal on my Harley after a long ride. I use god old elbow grease and a scrub brush on the tires...I don't like to use shine products on the tires...and I use vinegar and water for the windows using a newspaper to dry and clean the windows.

It takes me about 6-8 hours to detail my Harley...I am hoping to keep it under 16 hours for my motor home.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:18 AM   #3
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Hi Ray,

My first comment may be more about maintenance than detailing: be sure to keep wax on the front of your motorhome; I fell down on this issue on a previous RV, also didn't remove some bugs, and the bug essence actually embedded itself into the clear coat.

More to your point, I use an electric buffer when waxing the current motorhome. Do you have any suggestions about what pads to use with a buffer when waxing clear coat paint?
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:25 AM   #4
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It will be my favorite thread! Seems like alot of the other ones are about things that break ;-( I am almost scared to take my rig out now...for fear of something breaking...but...what the heck! Hopefully spring will come and we can hit the road!
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:37 AM   #5
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Washed mine yesterday and will wax it on the next dry day. Raining now.

Some times I use a buffer and have not had a problem yet. I always hand wax or polish and then use the buffer for removing it. Any pad advice appreciated, foam, wool, etc.

I'm still debating about using the mop and glow on the roof, any experienced comments welcome.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:13 AM   #6
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I did the Mop n glow on the roof, looked good but be especially sure none drips over the side, extremely hard to get stains off.

Just bought Mothers Wax Attack machine and polish for the lower paint and Polyglow for the gelcoat, will start in the next few weeks and post more comments then.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:42 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George Schweikle View Post
Hi Ray,

My first comment may be more about maintenance than detailing: be sure to keep wax on the front of your motorhome; I fell down on this issue on a previous RV, also didn't remove some bugs, and the bug essence actually embedded itself into the clear coat.

More to your point, I use an electric buffer when waxing the current motorhome. Do you have any suggestions about what pads to use with a buffer when waxing clear coat paint?
Hi George.

There are 4 different types of pads:

1. Wool (napped)
2. Cutting (foam)
3. Polishing (foam)
4. Finishing (foam)

There are several varieties of each but this is the main gist of them.

Generally wool is used on rotary polishers and best left to the pros (I'm not a pro by any stretch, I know how to use one but I prefer not to).
Each pad listed gets less abrasive as you go down the list. When working clear coat always start with the least abrasive pad and polish needed to get the job done (swirls, spiderwebs, halos, etc...). Most scratches will come out with work but sometimes you need to call in the pro detailers to get those to your satisfaction. CCS, Lake Country and Meguiar's all make excellent pads. They vary in size from 3" up to I believe 8-10". I normally use 5-7" pads when working on things. Good pads are readily available from many reputable sources. Try these out and see how you do.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:14 AM   #8
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Ammonia will strip most any wax. I know it works on Mop n Glo cause I have experience!
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:22 AM   #9
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I do it.

With a check book.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:31 AM   #10
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CampDaven is the smartest one so far, lol. To all the rest, be careful if you don't have "buffer" experience and it's maybe one of the only places where less = more. You're actually better off using a cheap buffer than you are a HD version as you're less likely to burn the paint. Using a light duty "polisher" (sold as a buffer often times) makes the work a lot easier, but as whatnobeer has pointed out, be cautious with more aggressive versions.

I can add this, though, if you're a Floridian or planning/currently traveling in our fine state, when you see the sky blacken with bugs and you hear natives mention the dreaded "Love Bug", make sure you clean them off as SOON as you can. They can be quite corrosive in their acidic nature if left on the front of a coach or toad too long. Sure, it might not be fun having to stop right before you get to the CG at the beginning of your vacation, but it will be well worth it later on.

Also, I personally don't use a TOAD, but I'd recommend if nothing else, for it to be waxed regularly. Lots of gunk and debris gets thrown up from the Coach and the more protection you can offer it, the better.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:38 AM   #11
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Here is an excellent video on Youtube describing the differences between a DA (dual action random orbital) polisher and a true rotary style polisher. For you good folks that like to use machines for polishing and waxing, this is for you. I will say the Flex line of polishers are excellent but you will pay for them. Normally in the $300-400 per polisher range. Good instruments can be had at half or even a third of that cost.

Flex Car Buffer Polisher 3401 VRG vs. 3043 How To Detailing Using Rotary & Dual Action Polishers - YouTube


As for CampDaven, I'm the one who usually cashes those checks. I enjoy the challenge of getting something to look new.
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:30 PM   #12
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Here's my two cents having detailed cars for (gulp) nearly 30 years.

Washing
Never EVER use dishwashing soap when washing (strips off all wax!). I don't use any type of soap at all, just a washing mitt that's pole mounted and water!

Avoid washing in the sun or when paint is hot. I tend to wash just the "shady sides" first, then dry, then turn coach around.

Rinsing with Dionized Water is a huge benefit (no drying required, won't spot or streak!) Devises available at Pep Boys and the like

Waxing
Use WD-40 or similar to remove any grease or tar (this also strips off any remaining wax). Good to use around filler tub if you've had any overflow/drip issues on the paint.

I would strongly suggest investing in a 12" or bigger orbital buffer and a bunch of terry cloth bonnets (4 ~ 6). They also offer a lambs wool bonnet which is great. These are perfect for coach use....fast, consistent results with minimum of labor and easy to do from a ladder without much difficulty. No swirls or burned through paint (common on rotary buffers in even the best of hands).

I like Maguire's products ~ I've had great results with their new "NX" line (called something like that)

Do small, manageable sections at a time (I typically work on an 8 x 8 square, waxing one section, going back an removing another section after being sure it's dried)

After waxing, I use the lambswool head to polish the entire coach. After that I use a CA duster or damp shammy to eliminate static charge so the coach stays cleaner.

Wheels
On cool (not hot) wheels, I wet and then spray liberally with Simple Green and allow to sit for 5 minutes. Eliminates brake dust, grease, oil etc. Then I wipe off while rinsing. If needed I polish with a chrome cleaner and then use Rim Wax which can handle the high heat while repelling dirt and grime.

Clean wheels make checking air and noticing issues with hub and brakes much easier!

Tires - I use a tire protector that includes UV protection (Not Armour All).

That's how we roll!

Mark
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:52 PM   #13
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I'm paying a Detail Shop to come out and do my FBP motor home tomorrow, wash including the roof, hand wax and hand buff, tires and wheels for a nice chunk of change...but worth it in my estimation.
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Old 02-27-2013, 02:00 PM   #14
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Living in west Texas it very hard to find a good day to this much needed chore. Most of the time we just do the best we can with what we've got. When you have days like we had just this past Monday and, there are many more of those days ahead of us, it is almost impossible to wash our rig.

Jerry
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