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Old 06-13-2012, 12:28 PM   #15
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Love the advice guys, keep it coming if any of you know of something else not yet mentioned. I want this thing to look like glass when I'm done....the same as how my cars look.
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:56 PM   #16
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VEGASDAN,

Do you happen to remember the name of the 3M product you where using. I have 3M's Imperial Micro Finishing Compound and a jug of the Machine Glaze, if It's different than those two I will stop at our local body shop supply house and pick it up.
Thanks
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:34 AM   #17
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I used 3M 05973 Rubbing Compound.
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:49 AM   #18
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I use the following products on my Corvette. I'm sure they would work perfectly on a MH.
  1. Porter-Cable 7424 6-Inch Variable Speed Random-Orbit Polisher.
  2. Adams swirl and haze remover.
  3. Adams machine polish.
  4. Adams buttery wax.
Each compound requires a different pad for the polisher.

It's time consuming, but the process results in a scratch & swirl free finish.
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Old 06-15-2012, 03:35 PM   #19
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WOW! Let's step back for a moment fellas and think about what the actual surfaces are. This is not a painted coach other than the lower dark area with the same around the windshield. The rest is fiberglass/gel-coat end caps and either fiberglass/gelcoat sides or Filon sides along with a bunch of vinyl graphics. So there are 3 or 4 different surfaces involved with different methods of treatment and products to apply.

1. The actual painted areas should be fine with automotive cleaners & waxes.
2. The vinyl graphics should never be touched with compounds or traditional waxes. The newer synthetic waxes MIGHT be OK, but I would only use something safe for vinyl like 303 Protectant.
3. The Gelcoat and/or Filon surfaces should be first cleaned of oxidation. It sounds like the surface was not heavily oxidized so scrubbing with nylon scrubby pad and Barkeepers Friend would probably be sufficient and that is what may be required now to remove the swirls.

I believe the swirl marks you see are the polishing compound still embedded in the surface which in reality still has layer of oxidation. In other words the oxidation has been polished on the surface but not fully removed. Do not apply RedMaxPro or any other treatments before you correct the swirl marks. If I'm right about the embedded compound, it would only make things worse. Try the Barkeepers Friend with a scrubby (with water) on an area then re-buff it with the polishing compound and see how it works. And stay off the vinyl.
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:01 PM   #20
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Jon Mopar
I've been following this thread with great interest as I too have what I think is the same problem with my coach. I don't think I can call my problem "swirl marks" as I can't see any minute scratches in the surface, but it does have a "blotchy" look in certain lights. I have used many different products from Mother's and Meguires and can not get the blotchy appearance to go away. Like yours, the painted areas are fine, it's just the white gelcoat that's giving me trouble. It looks like some areas have been waxed and others not, although this is not the case. I'm thinking I need to use a detergent to get rid of all of the old wax and have another go with a traditional carnuba paste wax.
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:26 PM   #21
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I am a auto painter by trade and buffer swirls are from the buffing pad and compound which cut the oxidation and the heat from the pad spinning brings out the shine... There fore you have swirls ...One should then polish the car or coach with a polish and polishing pad not a cutting pad this will help remove swirls...Then follow up with a good carnuba paste wax this is the hardest part because this will dry and then needs to be removed with a orbital machine or by hand with a soft cloth aka Cotton diaper or microfiber towel.....Carnuba is the best wax in my opinion this stuff is used on fiberglass mold for boats and other parts needed to be molded it makes the part pop out of the mold easily and is very durable

Just My 2 cents have fun its alot of work
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:17 AM   #22
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"The vinyl graphics should never be touched with compounds or traditional waxes. The newer synthetic waxes MIGHT be OK, but I would only use something safe for vinyl like 303 Protectant."

You'll not want to compound the graphics for sure. Mask them off with painter's tape, then compound. As far as waxing the graphics, when I had my new graphics applied by a professional shop in Mesa, I was told to wax them with "boat wax" which is 100% carnuba. I wax the fiberglass sides including the graphics twice a year. On the painted surfaces I use a car wax. Getting the shine back is not an easy job and requires much more than a one step process.
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:25 AM   #23
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This is turning out to be quite the thread
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:32 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Mopar View Post
This is turning out to be quite the thread
It certainly is, Jon.
Have you had a chance to do any work on the coach yet? And if so, what were the results?

I see several mentions of carnuba wax so here's my $.02.
Carnuba is great stuff - if you have a show car that sits in the garage. Unfortunately, while it provides a great shine, pure carnuba wax doesn't last long in the elements. Sun, rain and wash jobs quickly break it down and then you are back to square one. Plus as was mentioned, it is hard to properly apply and buff off. There are many new synthetic "waxes" that will give a great, long-lasting shine and they are much easier to apply and buff. Your choice.
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:43 PM   #25
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I'll throw another suggestion in for you to check out and try. We apply it by hand to the whole coach (aside from porous surfaces) including the windshield and mirrors. We apply it in the fall and spring when the temperatures aren't too hot or cold.

RejeX


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Old 06-22-2012, 03:16 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick-B View Post
It certainly is, Jon.
Have you had a chance to do any work on the coach yet? And if so, what were the results?

I see several mentions of carnuba wax so here's my $.02.
Carnuba is great stuff - if you have a show car that sits in the garage. Unfortunately, while it provides a great shine, pure carnuba wax doesn't last long in the elements. Sun, rain and wash jobs quickly break it down and then you are back to square one. Plus as was mentioned, it is hard to properly apply and buff off. There are many new synthetic "waxes" that will give a great, long-lasting shine and they are much easier to apply and buff. Your choice.

Thus far I've used Carnuba paste wax (AutoMagic EZ-Paste, it's literally the best in my opinion. It's normally used by professionals)....but Carnuba alone won't cut it. It really brings out the shine on a overcast, but there's still "holograms" in direct sunlight, so basically swirls and unevenness. I also tried Armour All Extreme Shield wax, and although it works really nice.....no improvement.

I might try to snap a pic of what I'm talking about if we get a nice day out. It might be hard to pick up with a camera, but the finish basically looks swirly and blotchy...like if you sprayed it with spray detailer, but didn't wipe it off properly. Basically, it's shiny in that it reflects light a bunch, but the color isn't deep looking. Hard to explain really, especially with white....but I'm sure some of you guys know what I'm talking about.
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:15 PM   #27
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Well, I suppose I can jump in here and say a few things too that may help…..I have an 04 Sea Breeze….it had a bit of yellowing in the fiberglass as most campers that age have….I consulted with 2 friends of mine in the paint and body business and they both suggested buying a good dual action polisher, variable speed and using Meguiar’s Diamond Cut Polishing Compound #85….when you first apply it, it has abrasives in it that cut through the yellowing and oxidation and also eliminates swirls and fine scratches….as it heats up, the abrasives break down and then it polishes….it’s pretty neat stuff, simple and easy and with the dual action polisher, almost impossible to mess anything up….anyway, after that I waxed it with Meguiar’s RV and Marine Wax #56….I’d have to say we’re pleased with the results…not a swirl mark or anything left on the fiberglass…just clean, white and shiny like it should be… it took me 13 hours over a week to tape off the graphics, polish the entire coach twice and wax it once….made a world of difference and the wife and I couldn’t be happier ….total cost for the buffer, pads, compound and wax was about $325…I couldn’t find anyone local to do it for under $1000 so I think that’s a good deal for me….and I get to keep the buffer!!.....</SPAN>
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:36 AM   #28
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Yep, this is quite a thread, not as bad as tire threads, but still...The rule of thumb on wax, tires, oil, diesel or gas engines is: What ever you have/use is always the best!
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