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Old 08-15-2016, 07:24 PM   #15
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I'd be nervous about using soap and water or 409. I would think they would leave a soap film when they dry. I wipe the surface down with paint thinner on a rag and let dry then re-caulk. Acetone should work, also.
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Old 08-15-2016, 07:34 PM   #16
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I use 3M adhesive remover. It doesn't mark paint or gelcoat and makes removing the old sealer easy! Then I wipe the work area with alcohol and apply the new stuff.
Works for me!
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Old 08-16-2016, 04:55 AM   #17
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Here's my prep for applying both Dicor and Eternabond.
Clean the old caulk and area around it with Tilex. Then I go over the same area with mineral spirits. When thats dry, I do a final swipe with acetone.
Then I apply the Dicor or Eternabond, whichever I'm using.
After almost 3 years of prepping like this, I've never had either the Dicor or Eternabond come off, or peel.
You must get the old caulk and surronding area where you want the Dicor to adhere squeaky clean...no dirt, water or cleaning solution can be left on it.
If your removing the old caulk, getting right down to the roof surface, than getting the area clean is also the most important part...prepping is the key to having the new caulk hold.
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Old 08-16-2016, 05:16 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grumpy0374 View Post
Here's my prep for applying both Dicor and Eternabond.
Clean the old caulk and area around it with Tilex. Then I go over the same area with mineral spirits. When thats dry, I do a final swipe with acetone.
Then I apply the Dicor or Eternabond, whichever I'm using.
After almost 3 years of prepping like this, I've never had either the Dicor or Eternabond come off, or peel.
You must get the old caulk and surronding area where you want the Dicor to adhere squeaky clean...no dirt, water or cleaning solution can be left on it.
If your removing the old caulk, getting right down to the roof surface, than getting the area clean is also the most important part...prepping is the key to having the new caulk hold.
Grumpy
Sounds like the solution to me, Cleaning and proper prep is usually the solution.

Best of Luck,
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Old 08-16-2016, 07:39 AM   #19
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I use automotive brake cleaner easy to use and dries fast. Never had a problem and you can get it at any parts store.
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Old 08-16-2016, 07:50 AM   #20
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The photo of the peeled up shows why.

We see what looks like a print on the dicor.

Remember "silly putty" being advertised to lift newsprint back in the day?

Soap and water will leave a soap film as the soap bonds to everything it touches...that is why it works.

Acetone is best solvent as last step as it cuts everything and leaves a clean surface.

Since it evaporates quickly you can use an empty metal can such as the first one used and poke a nail hole in the lid.

Cover with finger then pour on where working and scrub with old paint brush with bristles cut to 1/2 inch.

Pour again and wipe with clean rag to remove crud and it will dry in seconds.
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Old 08-16-2016, 08:58 AM   #21
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I used mineral spirits to clean the area before applying new caulk ...put it on a paper towel or shop rag and wipe the area until it is clean. It dries quickly, and then I apply the caulk. I repaired a couple of Dicor seams a couple of weeks ago and they look great now.
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Old 08-16-2016, 09:20 AM   #22
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Looks like the roof is a textured plastic to me, not fiberglass. Most fiberglass roof are usually pretty smooth. You might have to use a specialty sealent. I'd try gutter sealent or bathroom silicon. I use roof coating to protect the caulking after it dries. You might have to experiment a little to find the right one. When I clean I use a small steel brush and carb cleaner. Every little bit of old caulking has to be off the surface.

Self leveling caulking sounds like a great idea, but if you don't have a compression seal, it won't last. Manufacturers use it to "back up" their compression seals. A compression seal means there is a gasket between the surfaces.
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Old 08-16-2016, 09:38 AM   #23
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If it's a Forrest River product, the roof is actually a fiberglass/plastic composite. Usually around 1/8 inch thick, sturdy enough to walk on. Pretty sure other manuf. use some type of same product.
Will get REAL slippery if you coat or wax it. Cleans easily with auto car wash soap. I use Tilex and a soft bristle brush to clean it.
When clean, really clean, Dicor and Eternabond will adhere like crazy.
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Old 08-16-2016, 09:46 AM   #24
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Quote:
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Looks like the roof is a textured plastic to me, not fiberglass. Most fiberglass roof are usually pretty smooth. You might have to use a specialty sealent. I'd try gutter sealent or bathroom silicon. I use roof coating to protect the caulking after it dries. You might have to experiment a little to find the right one. When I clean I use a small steel brush and carb cleaner. Every little bit of old caulking has to be off the surface.

Self leveling caulking sounds like a great idea, but if you don't have a compression seal, it won't last. Manufacturers use it to "back up" their compression seals. A compression seal means there is a gasket between the surfaces.
In both photos the OP posted, there is obvious dirt in the crevices of the texture bumps. The surface wasn't properly cleaned before the caulk was laid down. Bathroom silicon is meant for an interior bathroom, not the weather extremes and UV sunlight of an RV roof. In addition, silicon leaves a residue that nothing will adhere to when if fails.

Dicor self-leveling caulk is used to seal around all parts of an RV roof, around skylights, vents, hatches, and seams.

Once the dirt has been loosened with water and detergent/soap, and scrubbing, wiping with acetone removes any soap residue (soap film is the wall of a bubble) remaining.
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Old 08-16-2016, 07:40 PM   #25
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It's definately a fiberglass roof.

I'll be washing the all of the seams and then wiping down with acetone. Hopefully this will solve the issue. Thanks again everyone.
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Old 08-16-2016, 07:46 PM   #26
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Dicor is incompatible with plastics used in some domes and skylights.
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Old 08-18-2016, 07:12 AM   #27
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Is it possible that it was sealed previously with a silicone sealant? If so silicone is difficult to remove, and almost no other sealant will cling to the residue.
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Old 08-18-2016, 08:17 AM   #28
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I use automotive brake cleaner easy to use and dries fast. Never had a problem and you can get it at any parts store.
I see many people recommend this for cleaning.
It is a very dangerous product for most people to use.

It really isn't worth the exposure when there are many other products available.
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