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Old 12-15-2012, 10:19 AM   #15
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I'm going to Sears this am to buy the spider looking tool. I think that will work for my situation. Did you try the suggestion of tapping down on the top edges? That seems like it would really help.
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:30 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
Did you try the suggestion of tapping down on the top edges? That seems like it would really help.
Yes, but I didn't try breaking the seal with a scewdriver as Belgian suggested, so I'll give that a try as well.

Craig
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Old 12-15-2012, 01:38 PM   #17
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I'm going to Sears this am to buy the spider looking tool. I think that will work for my situation.
Make sure you have clear access from under the engine. My son brought one of those over today and I couldn't snake it past everything else.

Craig
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:14 PM   #18
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Craig......I changed the filter on my neighbor's Diplomat last year and it was the first time in my life (been working on cars since I was 13) that I couldn't get a filter loose. Monaco mounted it in a hole in a panel beside the engine. It was too high up to get from underneath and too narrow of an opening from the rear of the coach. The filter was the original and had been glued on with undercoating.

I finally unbolted the mount and beat the filter to death in my vise. I wish I had done that before wasting two hours.
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:22 PM   #19
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I finally unbolted the mount and beat the filter to death in my vise. I wish I had done that before wasting two hours.
Thanks Don. YC1 mentioned doing that as well. If the new wrench doesn't work, I may have to resort to that.

Craig
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:39 PM   #20
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Just noticed......the other problem with those pliers is the word....CHINA.
Drive a large screw driver thru it.
Kinda messes but works!
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:05 PM   #21
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I am home with the new tool from Sears. Very well priced and built like a tank. I can see this being very useful for the generator as well.
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:18 PM   #22
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I looked at the Sears tool - looks like it should work well. Recently I had a diesel mechanic out to service my newish tractor and he used white grease instead of oil on the filter gasket when he installed the new filter. He said the white grease does not cement the filter to the base like the oil does.
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Old 12-16-2012, 04:17 PM   #23
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Oil should be used on oil filter seals, and fuel on fuel filters seals for lubrication. The oil / fuel not only lubricates the seals but seal is designed to swell slightly with the application of the appropriate lubricant. That is the reason it is so difficult to remove an over tightened filter, as well as the reason not to over tighten any spin on filter. BTW have you ever seen a spin-on filter leak? I only found one in over 40 years as a Caterpillar earthmoving mechanic. And that leaking filter was due to the fact that the old seal had stuck to the filter base and was not removed before the new filter was installed. No I didn't install the filter, I was sent out to fix the leak after a customer had changed his own fuel filter. I have changed hundreds of spin-on filters and some can be a real challenge. I used a Cat 1/2 inch drive strap type filter wrench or a pair of 6 in slip joint pliers. I always tried the pliers first. But when they would not fit I drug out the strap wrench. I would suggest always try to 'grab' the filter either at the very top or the very bottom. The middle area of the can is the weakest point. The bottom is next stronger the very top is the strongest.
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:26 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by 1ciderdog View Post
Recently I had a diesel mechanic out to service my newish tractor and he used white grease instead of oil on the filter gasket when he installed the new filter. He said the white grease does not cement the filter to the base like the oil does.
My son services heavy duty diesel equipment. He also recommended I use white lithium grease.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RinkersRanch View Post
Oil should be used on oil filter seals, and fuel on fuel filters seals for lubrication. The oil / fuel not only lubricates the seals but seal is designed to swell slightly with the application of the appropriate lubricant. That is the reason it is so difficult to remove an over tightened filter, as well as the reason not to over tighten any spin on filter. BTW have you ever seen a spin-on filter leak? I only found one in over 40 years as a Caterpillar earthmoving mechanic. And that leaking filter was due to the fact that the old seal had stuck to the filter base and was not removed before the new filter was installed. No I didn't install the filter, I was sent out to fix the leak after a customer had changed his own fuel filter. I have changed hundreds of spin-on filters and some can be a real challenge. I used a Cat 1/2 inch drive strap type filter wrench or a pair of 6 in slip joint pliers. I always tried the pliers first. But when they would not fit I drug out the strap wrench. I would suggest always try to 'grab' the filter either at the very top or the very bottom. The middle area of the can is the weakest point. The bottom is next stronger the very top is the strongest.
RinkersRanch, thank you for the tips. It's good to hear from a professional. Unfortunately in my case, the bottom of the filter is not accessible with a wrench. I can only get to the upper half of the filter.

Thanks.

Craig
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:06 PM   #25
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I use a strap wrench like the one from Advance Auto. In your case, you would put it on "upside down" with the long part facing upward.
Performance Tools Strap Filter Wrench


Part No. W173C
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:53 AM   #26
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The strap wrench that attaches to a socket wrench is fine. I have a metal version of the strap wrench that attaches to my socket wrench with and extension and I have removed difficult filters for many years with it. Here is a link Amazon.com: K-D Tools 2029 Sq Drive Oil Fltr Wrench: Automotive
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Old 12-20-2012, 02:48 PM   #27
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The strap wrench that attaches to a socket wrench is fine. I have a metal version of the strap wrench that attaches to my socket wrench with and extension and I have removed difficult filters for many years with it. Here is a link Amazon.com: K-D Tools 2029 Sq Drive Oil Fltr Wrench: Automotive
Yup ... I also have one of those. But for areas that are difficult to fit the wrench into, the fabric strap usually works because you can totally collapse it. it's not my favorite but it is my "go to" in really tight areas.
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:32 PM   #28
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Success!

Well I finally got the thing off with the strap filter tool that some of you recommended...or I should say my son got it off for me. I tried for the best part of an hour and all I did was dent the filter. I couldnít get it to budge. Part of the reason is because the filter hasnít been changed in 6 years. Read this thread if you'd like to learn why.

As I said, I couldnít get the filter to move, all I managed to do was strain my back. I retired earlier this year from a back injury, so I probably shouldnít have kept trying when I couldnít get it to turn initially, but Iím stubborn. I gave up and called my son, who happened to be on his way home from work. He was able to get it off for me, but it took all he had to get it to turn. Nothing like the strength of a virile 25 year old! He bolted on the priming pump for me while he was there. Below is the "after" photo following a rinse-down of the spilled diesel fuel.

Before I started today, I put a large piece of cardboard and a large drip pan under the engine to protect my concrete pad. Glad I did, as diesel fuel went everywhere when my son finally removed the filter.

Thanks everyone for your help. Iím off to soak in the hot tub to appease my back...

Craig


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