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Old 02-07-2015, 09:09 PM   #29
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Fumuto valves rock.

However, the walmart down the street from the thousand trails park will swap your oil for $25. You supply the oil and the filter and hand them $25 for the labor.

Fumuto valves don't rock that much.
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Old 02-07-2015, 09:14 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottybdivin View Post
I just completed my 1st oil change and service on my Cummins ISM. I was prepared and had a drain pan large enough (lower 1/4 of a plastic drum) to handle the 11 gal. I also changed the fuel, air dryer, and coolant filers, and the fuel filter and nozzle on the Hydro Hot. There were more grease fittings than I expected and a few were pretty tough to reach, on the fan drive U-joints. I then had to pump the oil from the drain pan into the empty gallon jugs to haul off to a reclaimed oil site.

I'm just curious how others handle this and what equipment you use to catch and transport the used oil. I don't see where you save much money over Speedco, after buying oil and filter. Do you do it because you enjoy it, for the certainty of it being done right, or for the convenience of not having to drive the rig across town or beyond. I wanted to do it the 1st time, more to familiarize myself with all the working parts. There is no Speedco in Austin and the nearest one is 85 mi each way. I did enjoy the experience gained, but I am undecided as to whether I will do it again in the future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
.......
The same it true for the oil drain plug. I've started using the Futoma oil drain valve on the F-53 for ease of getting the oil out and into a container. That I'm sure would work for your diesel. You could fill up a container and with the flip of your finger you can stop the flow, change the container and resume.
Changing the filter is still a bit of a mess but not as bad.
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Originally Posted by Scottybdivin View Post
Very interesting about the Fumoto drain valve. Do they hang down very far and is the any danger of getting knocked off from road debris? It seems like the oil pan is very low to the ground already without something hanging down below it.
.......
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Originally Posted by NHRA225 View Post
No sense at all !
I've had the Fumoto Valve on the Bottom the last 14 years-- make's the job a lot easier.
I am a big fan of the Fumoto drain valve. The standard one is about 3/4 of a inch tall, the ones with a nipple area about another 3/4 of a inch.
on mine the front axle hangs much lower than my drain valve.
I use a small piece of hose so there is even less mess.

I change mine to save me money. No doubt about it. For what garages want to use std dino oil I can use Synthetic Rotella for less.
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Old 02-08-2015, 09:59 AM   #31
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KIX,
That's a great idea about the vacuum. That idea never crossed my mind. Where did you come up with it????? Be Honest

scottybdivin,
It's right to be concerned about the Futomo valve getting knocked off. Each situation may be slightly different. For our 2014 F-53 the drain valve is very well shielded. Could something hit it and knock it off?? Yes anything is possible. Lets put it this way. If I hit a RR tie it might knock the valve off.

If I hit a RR tie I think I'll stop to see what other damage has been done. and while I'm under the MH I'll check the drain valve.

TeJay
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:07 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Scottybdivin View Post
Very interesting about the Fumoto drain valve. Do they hang down very far and is the any danger of getting knocked off from road debris? It seems like the oil pan is very low to the ground already without something hanging down below it.

And like you said, whoever changed the oil on the Onan last, went crazy on the drain plug. I hade to use a 24" breakover to get it broke loose. There's no reason for this.
I've used a Fumoto valve for the past 11 years and have one ready to go when I change the oil on the new MH. I save the gallon containers from my last oil change to drain directly into them on my next oil change. Simple, clean and easy. I drop the full jugs off at Walmart for recycling.

If you are worried about the valve opening during travel, you can put a simple spring hose clamp in it, but I have never had a problem and took mine off.
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:31 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottybdivin View Post
How do you transport the oil after you have it in the cutoff drum?
I use a Black Tank portable tote for large volumes ....they flat and come in all sizes with wheels included.
http://www.carid.com/thetford/12-gal...kUgaAm8a8P8HAQ
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:52 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brobox View Post
I've used a Fumoto valve for the past 11 years and have one ready to go when I change the oil on the new MH. I save the gallon containers from my last oil change to drain directly into them on my next oil change. Simple, clean and easy. I drop the full jugs off at Walmart for recycling.

If you are worried about the valve opening during travel, you can put a simple spring hose clamp in it, but I have never had a problem and took mine off.
I assume your Anthem has about the same clearance as mine. I did a search and it shows a T-203 fits most of the larger Cummins. With or w/o hose nipple?

Brave enough to try the vacuum trick KIX mentioned? I just changed my oil yesterday so it will be a year, then it would be another year before I actually used the valve.
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Old 02-08-2015, 11:42 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KIX View Post
I use the Fumoto valve too. As others have said it makes oil changes a whole lot more pleasant.
If you want to install a Fumoto valve there's no need to wait until the next oil change. Use a shop vacuum sealed with a rag to the oil cap (where you fill oil). As long as the vacuum is running you won't lose a drop of oil while you remove the plug and install the Fumoto.
What a great idea!! Just curious, can the shop vac be too powerful to extract oil? Or can it be too small that wouldn't work?
Thanks
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Old 02-08-2015, 11:57 AM   #36
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One small detail when installing new fuel and oil filters....coat the rubber gasket with oil before you install it.
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Old 02-08-2015, 12:45 PM   #37
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I use flattened card board on my suburban concrete driveway as a work surface.

My 70 yr old body slides easier on the cardboard and it acts as a spill absorbent.

I go under the engine to remove and replace the drain plug. Otherwise the cardboard is my conveyor.

Another piece of cardboard is topped by two AutoZone, 15 quart, oil drain pans with pour spouts. When one pan is sufficiently full, I slide the second one into place with very little spillage.

Then I pump the two drain pans' oil (@ 20 quarts) into gallon jugs for transport to Auto Zone for recycling.

Changing four filters costs about $45 from FilterBarn.Com. Oil costs about $60. Lube I estimate at $4 since I seem to buy a new tube of grease to do the job. 21 lube points on my Gillig Bus chassis. So, about $105 per service.

When I drove somewhere to have the work done I easily consumed about 3 to 4 hours of my time.

DIY saves me fuel, time, and money.

Unfortunately, unless I do things like this, my time has no monetary reward........
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Old 02-08-2015, 04:36 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Scottybdivin View Post
How do you transport the oil after you have it in the cutoff drum?
With a cheap pump, powered by my cordless drill, pumped into some 2.5G oil jugs I save for this purpose. Next trip into the city I empty them into the repair shops big totes.
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Old 02-08-2015, 06:49 PM   #39
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I did take it to the nearest Cummins shop the first time for a good once over including engine diagnostics, they gave it a thumbs up. Since then I also do my own maintenance,

I get piece of mind knowing that it was done correctly. I take the time to inspect everything when I'm under the coach, I lube mine 2 times per year so it gives me a good chance to look at everything.

I did have the front hubs changed to oil bath which takes care of the hub greasing.

My coach take ~19 quarts of oil, I use a 5 gallon bucket & put a white trash bag in it. After the oil drains out I simply pull the garbage bag up and tie the top.

I have a friend that has his own shop and burns the oil in a heater so I take it to him, never hurts to have friends like this and he always appreciative for the oil.
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:26 PM   #40
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Also a Fumoto valve fan. However I've rigged up a marine oil change pump to remove my oil. Have it mounted to a piece of plywood that I clamp to a 5gal bucket. Hook a hose on Fumoto valve nipple, discharge hose into bucket pore spout, power cables to battery. It pumps oil out in 4 min, directly into bucket. Pump is reversable, so pump one galoon back in to oil pan and right back out , as a flush. Then on 5gal bucket of Rotella pumped back in, shut valve, remove hose--done. Slide small drain pan under filter, punch a small hole in bottom of filter and let drain. Can take a little longer depending on hole size, but no mess. Remove old filter, fill and install new one, start engine and top off if needed. Can usually do job in 30-40 min, but as I age my speed is decreasing. 😆 Used same method on the boat DW and I lived on for ten years.
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:51 PM   #41
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Mike, I like the idea of punching a hole in the filter. The ISL filter holds a gallon of oil. I can usually get it off with little spillage, but the hole would allow for draining and then maybe a piece of Gorilla tape over the hole during removal.
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Old 02-09-2015, 12:36 AM   #42
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I perform all my maintenance and engine work so far Scott, I do not do it to save money, I do it so when we back it out of the garage to head out, I am at peace, when I start it up to head out, that it was all gone over, and was done right. When I am under it, I care more, and look at a lot more things, and check stuff, than someone changing the oil, that I could hire ...........There will be a day when I am going to have to find someone to do it for me, but for now, in a heated garage, over the winter and when not in use, I do it all. My Father had a Excavating business, and we were brought up to do all our own maintenance and repairs in the shop........ I thank my Father for that lession........RIP Dad!
Amen to that
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