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01-24-2015, 08:56 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Hanceville,AL
Posts: 152
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I have a onan quite diesel 6000. The transformer went bad which is the complete electronics for the gen set. I repaired it myself. I had to pull the generator and disassemble it. Took me under 5 hours to do. So 10 hours is ridiculous.
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01-25-2015, 06:59 AM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Drums,Pa
Posts: 49
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I thank you all for the help, when the snow goes away and a littlw warmer I will start all over again, I have the manal and have went thru the troble shotting. when I get to work on this I will be calling for help.
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01-25-2015, 11:31 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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Do you need a generator?
Well, by the standards I use: YES, everyone does, But here is the logic:
Do you always park in a licensed RV park or other facility/location which can provide proper power to your RV (NOTE: many "30 amp outlets" in a friend's garage... NOT for RV use (240 volt).
Does the park where you are have 100% reliable commercial power (NO no place in the US with the possible exception of Page, AZ has 100% reliable power.. page has a Hydroelectric dam, a Coal fired plant, and a row of big Diesels, they are not likely to go dark, but that's the only city I've seen so well protected).
DO you have a Sticks & Bricks house? (IF no stop here)
Does it have 100% reliable utility provided power? If not install a proper INLET on the house, run it to a proper GENERATOR panel, put only 120 volt circuits (and not all of 'em) on that panel (Circuits you SHOULD transfer include, Fridge, Freezer, Microwave, Furnace, and selected lighing, DO NOT transfer Cloths dryer, Washer, ALL LIGHTS, Stove, Central AIR (Window airs can transfer). anything needing 240 volts).
WHEN (not if) Commercial power fails, Turn on one of the lights NOT transfered (in my case it was a never (otherwise) used hall light) fire up ye old RV, (Which by the way has a 30 amp outlet in the basement) plug the house into the RV with a special made cord, and flip switches
Click: Lights
Click: Heat
Click Radio/TV, Computers/Internet modem
CLICK Fridge
Cick FREEZER
You get the idea
Generator transfer switch $$$
Installing it $$$
Cord $$
Otlet on RV $ (I have the skills to do that, it's a 30 amp breaker off the main breaker box in the RV by the way).
Warm Wife (See "Click: HEAT" above) PRICELESS.
__________________
Home is where I park it!
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01-25-2015, 08:27 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Horse Town USA, CA.
Posts: 3,781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pamike
I thank you all for the help, when the snow goes away and a littlw warmer I will start all over again, I have the manal and have went thru the troble shotting. when I get to work on this I will be calling for help.
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When you get to working on the problem you will notice the wire numbers referenced in the troubleshooting are printed on the wires every few inches. Making it easier to follow the test steps.
__________________
1999 35 ft. Dolphin 5350, F53, Banks System, 5 Stars Tune, Air Lift Air Bags, Koni Shocks, Blue OX TruCenter, TigerTrak track bars F&R, Roadmaster 1-3/4" rear auxiliary sway bar, 2004 F450 Lariat Pickup 6.0 Diesel Crew Cab DRW, 4X4, GVWR 15,000, Front GAWR 6,000, Rear GAWR 11,000, GCWR 26,000,1994 36ft Avion 5er, GVWR 13,700, 2,740 Pin Weight.
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01-28-2015, 03:19 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CLEARWATER, FLORIDA
Posts: 1,052
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You mentioned that it didn't crank over. My Generac had the starter motor fail. Royal pain to get the generator out, but a starter/alternator shop fixed rebuilt it for about a hundred bucks.
Just a thought.
Tom
__________________
Tom & Jan ---- Westwing43 (RVM28)
2008 NEWMAR MOUNTAIN AIRE 4528
Pulling a 2014 CHEVY CAPTIVA
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