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Old 01-03-2014, 02:50 PM   #15
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This is a quote from the Michelin RV Tire Guide
"Also, some storage surfaces can cause tires to age faster. That’s why
Michelin recommends placing a barrier (cardboard,
plastic or plywood) between the tire and the storage

John and Mary Knight
2015 Ventana 4311, 2015 Cadillac SRX
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Old 01-03-2014, 02:51 PM   #16
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I don't think he specified a time period, or I just plain forgot it. I used to use plastic pads whenever it was parked in the garage. Since I epoxyed the floor, I no longer need to.

Shawn M.
2011 Fleetwood Expedition
2014 Chevy Traverse
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Old 01-03-2014, 08:39 PM   #17
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We swallowed hard and had a concrete driveway done. Our house (a new one when we bought it) had a third dirt driveway that ran alongside the garage. When we got our 26' Class C, we had a concrete addition installed. From the street to the end was about 40 feet and it's about 9'6" wide, including a raised curb along the edge, which is right on the property line.

The contractor (local) did a driveway with extra gravel and a 2" deeper section where the RV would sit for about $1000. This was in 2004 or so.

Since our RV is 102" wide, getting it in is a challenge. I only go in forwards and have to exit through the driver's door into our neighbor's front yard. We can't fully open the house door when the rig is docked. Our Class C was only 96" wide.
Frank Damp -Anacortes, WA,(DW- Eileen)
ex-pat Brits (1968) and now ex-RVers, as of 08 Dec 14.
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:21 AM   #18
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Crush and Run, packs like concrete, tiny little gravels....heck you can almost sweep it...lol
Command Master Chief (USCG, RET)
Full Timing in a 2007 American Coach Eagle 45H towing a 2015 Ford F150 4x4 hauling a 2015 Anniversary Edition Honda Goldwing
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Old 01-05-2014, 09:46 AM   #19
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First run asphalt is good too
Bart Anderson
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:33 PM   #20
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What about a mixture of materials? Pour two concrete slabs. One for the front wheels and engine and one for the rear wheels. Crush and run everywhere else.
Tom Wilds
Blythewood SC
2016 Newmar Bay Star Sport 3004
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Old 01-06-2014, 07:46 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Raining Star View Post
Which did you use, the decomposed granite I mentioned, or the asphalt grindings the other poster suggested?
We used Asphalt Grindings. Got a good deal with a neighbor who does construction work, who got most neighbors on our road to chip in. Very much improved over the sand, and the driveway doesn't gully like it did before.
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Old 01-06-2014, 06:59 PM   #22
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I was thinking along the same lines as "wildtoad". Pour concrete where you plan to crawl under the coach, put large stones down where you walk out to the RV and use whatever cheap material you can for the rest. We did this for awhile, but I finally just bit the bullet and poured all concrete. It just saves a lot of trouble.

"palehorse"....when RV tires are running down the road (asphalt) the tires get hot and the oils within the tires do what they're suppose to do and keep the tires in good health. When parked on most surfaces, the tires will absorb moisture from the ground and shorten their life. Nobody has ever really put a time frame on what is considered parked for a long time, but whenever my coach is sitting at home, I have it parked on rubber mud flaps. I bought three full size rubber truck mud flaps and put one under each dual and cut the third one in half and placed it under the two front tires.
Don & Mary
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2016 GMC Canyon 4WD Crew Cab
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Old 01-06-2014, 07:36 PM   #23
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Before we bought our M. H. we saved as much money as we could just to clear the side of the house which is 14' wide to install a concrete slab that went just about all the way back to about 14' from the back fence.
But before we started the work I had to get a permit from the City to install another driveway ramp over the sidewalk.
You should check with the City before you do any work just to make shore it would be O.K. to do it.
I connected a 30 amp outlet and a water faucet on the side of the house which came in handy when a few days before we leave to go some place I connect To elect. to turn on the fridge.
The sewer line was on the other side of the house which made it imposable to connect a clean out.
After all the work was done and the Steel gate was install then we had time to start to look for a M.H.
Just a thought.
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:34 PM   #24
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We had a driveway slab poured from the road to the fence into our back yard. Total length is little over 60 feet and width is about 10 feet. Cost about $3,000 four years ago. It is long enough to back the boat up and the RV at the same time, and keep the nose from extending onto the "sidewalk" portion of our driveway.

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