RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > MH-General Discussions & Problems
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-21-2019, 09:14 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
Unicorn Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 5,882
Driving MH in Michigan winters and chassis rust

Hi there,

I would like the option to use my coach in Michigan winters, some state Parks stay open all winter and plow the access roads and some sites.

I would only drive it if I knew the roads would be fairly clear. My concern is residual road salt and chemicals would rust out the chassis.

I called Winnebago and was told the workhorse chassis does have a treatment but best not to drive it in winter.

My coach is an Itasca Latitude class A.

Is there any treatments I can apply to prevent rust or is it inevitable? also is it possible to wash the undercarriage to remove rust?

If it's a bad idea please day so. :-)

Thanks,
__________________

__________________
2008 Itasca Latitude 37g UFO Gas pusher.
2012 Jeep Wrangler Sahara JKU.
Unicorn Driver is online now   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 11-21-2019, 09:27 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
grindstone01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: FULL TIMERS
Posts: 3,646
How often do you plan to go during the salt season. If you only will go out 1-2 times a season, then wash the undercarriage and inspect for rust during the summer. Try to avoid travel on slush days. If you are going out frequently, take it to a shop and have it undercoated, if they will do a 11 year old chassis.
__________________

__________________
2018 Chevy DRW
2008 Carriage Cameo, F34CK3
Full Time since 2012
grindstone01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 09:37 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Unicorn Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 5,882
Quote:
Originally Posted by grindstone01 View Post
How often do you plan to go during the salt season. If you only will go out 1-2 times a season, then wash the undercarriage and inspect for rust during the summer. Try to avoid travel on slush days. If you are going out frequently, take it to a shop and have it undercoated, if they will do a 11 year old chassis.
Thanks Grindstone, I would only go if the road was to be fairly clear and only for a few nights so could see the forecast.

I would use it only 3-4 times. I called Ziebart and they can do a rust treatment for about 1000$ but would have to do it outside.
__________________
2008 Itasca Latitude 37g UFO Gas pusher.
2012 Jeep Wrangler Sahara JKU.
Unicorn Driver is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 11:29 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Metamora, MI
Posts: 2,934
On a used RV, I wouldn't have a shop do mine. Because the majority of work is cleaning / derusting the surface before the undercoat goes on. And it would be very rare and costly to find a commercial place that would do a good job on that.

If you are a DIY'r, then raise the RV on jack stands / cribbage. Then, powerwash the heck out of the bottom being careful not to overspray rubber items so as not to damage. Let that dry and take a shower.

Then inspect and start wire wheeling off any stuck on crud and surface rust. Air blow the residue off. Paint and / or Undercoat that area. Move to the next area. This is a lot of work so likely would be done in sections. Wear google and gloves, a respirator and sweatshirt and jeans for protection.

When you are done the bottom will look better than new.

If you are more handy, a sandblaster rig is what a pro would use to do an even more effective job and to do it in less manual time. But it makes a big mess and requires expensive equipment and is an unpleasant experience unless you have positive pressure respirator etc.

At a minimum, I would do a through power washing of the bottom before bringing it to an undercoat shop. That will get you 80% of the way clean which is much better than what they would do. I powerwash "behind me" so where my body is is relatively dry and not dripping on me. One of those bite the bullet and get the job done jobs.

But, pre undercoating, it's a great time to inspect all hoses / belts / wires / steel for damage and rust.
__________________
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire Limited 4370 w/ Spartan K2 and Cummins 500hp
ASE Master Certified (a long.....time ago...)
Dav L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 02:14 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Unicorn Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 5,882
Thanks Dav,

I really need to get under it and see what condition it is in. Raining today so will have to wait.

I am not sure I can raise the cosch enough to power wash underneath.
__________________
2008 Itasca Latitude 37g UFO Gas pusher.
2012 Jeep Wrangler Sahara JKU.
Unicorn Driver is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 02:34 PM   #6
tcg
Senior Member
 
tcg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicorn Driver View Post
Thanks Dav,

I really need to get under it and see what condition it is in. Raining today so will have to wait.

I am not sure I can raise the cosch enough to power wash underneath.
They make attachments for pressure washers that connect to the end of your hose, they have wheels and 2 or more nozzles pointing up. You do your own under carriage wash.
tcg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 02:38 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Unicorn Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 5,882
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcg View Post
They make attachments for pressure washers that connect to the end of your hose, they have wheels and 2 or more nozzles pointing up. You do your own under carriage wash.
Ah,

That makes sense now. :-)
__________________
2008 Itasca Latitude 37g UFO Gas pusher.
2012 Jeep Wrangler Sahara JKU.
Unicorn Driver is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 08:39 PM   #8
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 64
Being from Michigan......IMHO, i would advise against doing what you are going to do for a couple reasons.
The salt/sand thats used is brutal, someplace they use beet juice, the cold, snow, ice, black ice, wind chill, snow, snow, snow it relentless, especially around xmas and until end of March.
Dont know if they make snow brushs long enough to reach the roof of your rv, might need a push broom.
And they dont make snow tires for rv's.
Be prepared for long durations of below freezing temp. That doesnt include wind chill.
Those are the reasons, after living and working in Michigan winters for last 25 years, born and raised there, 53 yrs old now, is reason we are sitting in Myrtle beach now and heading to Florida after xmas.
If you, be prepared and extremely careful. Mother nature is not kind to Michigan in winter, she sends Jack Frost and twin brother Max-a-chillin.
DonB2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 09:36 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Charlie 5320's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 627
I bought a 98 Daybreak from Michigan about 5 years ago, NEVER again. That coach was really rotten on the bottom.

If your coach isn't too bad now you may be able to save it. I'd use a strong soap solution and a pressure washer to get all the salt and chemicals off of the frame. The either wire brush or wire wheel the rust off the frame. Rustoleum makes a rust converter black paint in a can. It works pretty good, I used some on my truck when I repaired the rockers on it.
__________________
1996 Challenger 313

2003 Dolphin 5320 sold
Charlie 5320 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 11:46 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Metamora, MI
Posts: 2,934
I use the gun from a power washer soap kit that has no long nozzle tube. The spray head connects directly to the handle. Now, one has to be very careful when squeezing the trigger under pressure that the handle doesn't push away. Be especially careful of getting shot in the eye. You can use two hands on the gun until you are used to it.

I am still thin and agile so don't have any issue of getting underneath the RV on jacks. You might need to raise the RV off it's wheels for more access. Just make sure you are on level concrete and the jack stands / cribbage is well placed and strong.

I don't think you can do an adequate job without getting under the RV. The crud, rust, oils get everywhere and you need to powerwash every possible cranny and angle to clean it. The road water spray will find all of those spots instantly.
__________________
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire Limited 4370 w/ Spartan K2 and Cummins 500hp
ASE Master Certified (a long.....time ago...)
Dav L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2019, 04:49 AM   #11
Senior Member


 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 4,438
UD-

We have a trusted mechanic apply Fluid Film to our cars and motorhome, every year or every second year, depending. Fluid Film is the undercoating of choice in our area these days. It is made from lanolin.

Cars cost $100 or so and the motorhome $350, with labor at $55 an hour. It does take four/five times the material to do the coach, compared to a car.

We have to drive the cars in Winter, so undercoating is the only way to make them last. We undercoat the motorhome because we store outside, and it gives us the option of leaving for warmer climes when the road is still wet (with possible salt residue). We intentionally avoid driving or using the coach in snowy conditions.
__________________
Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
l1v3fr33ord1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2019, 06:11 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Unicorn Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 5,882
Morning all,

Could not reply last night as was at a work event.

I do not intend to drive it if any snow on the road at all. Where I live is out of the snow belt so does not get much Lake effect snow. There are times where the roads are clear for a week or more.

If I did take it out it would be local and only for a few nights when I knew for 100% it would not snow.

Hi Mark,

I will check out the fluid film.
__________________
2008 Itasca Latitude 37g UFO Gas pusher.
2012 Jeep Wrangler Sahara JKU.
Unicorn Driver is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2019, 06:14 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
Unicorn Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 5,882
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dav L View Post
I use the gun from a power washer soap kit that has no long nozzle tube. The spray head connects directly to the handle. Now, one has to be very careful when squeezing the trigger under pressure that the handle doesn't push away. Be especially careful of getting shot in the eye. You can use two hands on the gun until you are used to it.

I am still thin and agile so don't have any issue of getting underneath the RV on jacks. You might need to raise the RV off it's wheels for more access. Just make sure you are on level concrete and the jack stands / cribbage is well placed and strong.

I don't think you can do an adequate job without getting under the RV. The crud, rust, oils get everywhere and you need to powerwash every possible cranny and angle to clean it. The road water spray will find all of those spots instantly.
Hi Dav,

I do have Jack pads I could use. I am a bit dubious about going under the coach with the Jack's down though. I must find out if anyone has a pit I can borrow.
__________________
2008 Itasca Latitude 37g UFO Gas pusher.
2012 Jeep Wrangler Sahara JKU.
Unicorn Driver is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2019, 07:58 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Metamora, MI
Posts: 2,934
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicorn Driver View Post
Hi Dav,

I do have Jack pads I could use. I am a bit dubious about going under the coach with the Jack's down though. I must find out if anyone has a pit I can borrow.
You are right...do NOT get under the RV supported only with the jacks. You MUST put heavy duty jack stands and / or timbers under the chassis of the vehicle (not the axles).

Note that the heavy duty jack stands should be rated for MORE than the corner you will be lifting. And sometimes jack stand marketing statements state the capacity that is for the PAIR of stands so accommodate that in your spec requirements.

You won't need a pit, but if you can find one, great.

so, park on level concrete. Put pads under the stored jacks until no clearance. Lift the RV to full height. The wheels will lift off the concrete. No big deal. It won't slide as you are on a level pad. The shocks will keep the axles from dropping out of the sky. Put heavy duty jack stands under the chassis (frame) and adjust until tight to the chassis with the height adjusters and shims. This provides two layers of protection - the jacks and the jack stands. Only then should you get underneath.

If you do travel in snow / salt, then a quick underneath / engine compartment power wash soon post trip will do wonders from the salt eating away anything. This doesn't need to be as thorough as the undercoat prep.
__________________

__________________
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire Limited 4370 w/ Spartan K2 and Cummins 500hp
ASE Master Certified (a long.....time ago...)
Dav L is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
chassis, rust, winter



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Michigan Winters. jawgaboy Camping Locations, Plans & Trip Reports 12 06-06-2019 09:39 PM
Rust Rust and More Rust mhbell Class A Motorhome Discussions 10 09-16-2015 09:02 PM
Winters in the warm country Hawkeye bus iRV2.com General Discussion 4 07-05-2012 04:30 PM
Normandy Farms RV to Close Winters 2012 bdaball Camping Locations, Plans & Trip Reports 3 04-10-2011 06:41 AM
Solano Lake-Winters, Ca MonacoMama Camping Locations, Plans & Trip Reports 4 03-07-2007 06:38 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×