Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > MH-General Discussions & Problems
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-29-2012, 05:44 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 7
Electric Problem (a few lights go out no breaker tripped)

I just bought a Coachman motorhome and I have been having problems with some of the lights going out like a breaker tripped even though none of them have, then a few minutes later the lights will come back on.

The fan I had blowing stayed on as well as two A/C units.

I thought at first it might be a bad joint/loose connection someplace in the circuit, but I am not sure if it is that or the bad looking and poorly taped 30 amp plug.

I tried cleaning the 30 amp prongs and it still has the problem.

Any ideas what else it could be or how to best narrow it down?

Also, could it be a bad breaker or panel wiring? Could it be something else or something more serious or hard to fix??

Thanks in advance,

goitalone
__________________

__________________
goitalone is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 07-29-2012, 05:53 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
GaryKD's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wellington, Florida
Posts: 12,325
Hi goitalone,
Welcome to iRV2. My assumption is you are asking about 12 VDC lights. Without more specifics about the coach here are some things you can try. 12 VDC lights are powered directly from the coach battery(s).
1. Check the 12 VDC fuse panel and make sure the power and ground wires are fastened tightly.
2. Check the coach (house) battery(s) and clean the terminals, fill with distilled water and make sure they are fully charged.
3. Check the 12 VDC fuses. Even if they are good, pull inspect and replace them. They should fit tightly into their socket.
4. Lastly check for a good ground between any offending light socket and the chassis. You may need to run a new ground wire.
__________________

__________________
Gary
2005 Newmar KSDP 3910 + GMC ENVOY XUV 37K lbs Moving Down The Road
The Avatar Is Many Times Around The USA
Nobody Knows Your Coach Like Somebody Who Owns One Just Like Yours
GaryKD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2012, 06:03 PM   #3
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryKD View Post
Hi goitalone,
Welcome to iRV2. My assumption is you are asking about 12 VDC lights. Without more specifics about the coach here are some things you can try. 12 VDC lights are powered directly from the coach battery(s).
1. Check the 12 VDC fuse panel and make sure the power and ground wires are fastened tightly.
2. Check the coach (house) battery(s) and clean the terminals, fill with distilled water and make sure they are fully charged.
3. Check the 12 VDC fuses. Even if they are good, pull inspect and replace them. They should fit tightly into their socket.
4. Lastly check for a good ground between any offending light socket and the chassis. You may need to run a new ground wire.
No, I'm sorry, I was talking about the kitchen lights (which is also rigged/wired to come on via a switch with an exaust fan that someone installed) as well as about 8 other non-12vdc lights in the living area. Not sure if any outlets are affected or not as I do not have a tester and have not investigated further yet.

It is a 1989 with the inside completely redone...who knows what they've done over the years.
__________________
goitalone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2012, 04:49 PM   #4
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 7
What I meant was they are on AC current when it happens.
__________________
goitalone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2012, 09:35 AM   #5
Senior Member


 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,495
Are you certain your lights are 120vac powered and not 12vdc? in any case if no fuse is blown or breaker is tripped look for a loose connection somewhere regardless of the power source for the light. But again I would be surprised if the light was powered direct from a 120vac source. What does the rating on the bulb say? What voltage is measured at the bulb socket?

Good luck.
__________________
Libero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2012, 09:50 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
BFlinn181's Avatar
 
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 16,264
First, you need to determine which lights/circuits are 12 v and which are 120 v. Disconnect from shore power, turn off any inverters and test lights.

Buy a multimeter - Harbor Freight has them for about $10 or less.

If the kitchen lights are fluorescent light fixtures, many ballasts are thermally protected to turn off when overheated. When they cool down, they come back on. You need to find out why they are overheated.

You mentioned that much rewiring has been done. This needs to be checked. Try to find every connection and check for tightness and proper insulation.

A 'bad looking and poorly taped 30 amp plug' is not something I'd want to be handling. A 30 amp plug /shore cord shouldn't be taped. I don't think this has anything to do with the light issue, but might be an indication that the previous owner had a sort of 'casual' attitude towards things electrical.


'Map' out your wiring. Remove a fuse and see what goes out/doesn't work. Write it down. In the future, you'll have a reference as to which circuit controls what light or outlet. 120 v AC wiring should be coax with a ground wire and much heavier than 12 v DC wiring.

Good luck.
__________________

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
BFlinn181 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2012, 10:04 AM   #7
Senior Member


 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,495
You have it right on regarding tracing wiring and I suggest making a shematic diagram would be a worthwhile exercise for future use and trouble shooting. I have had physical routing detail and complete electrical information, including relay functions, for the several RVs I have owned. Having this information immediatly available available pays off big time when troubles appear. I have a signal tracer that was a big help in confirming wiring routes.

Check every connection as you do this. But 120Vac wiring should never be coax as suggested. Coax is used in RF applications such as TV cables.

I suspect your 120vac wires use 14ga for 15A circuits and at least 10ga for 30A and may or may not be armor coated.

Good idea re checking ballasts but if it was my RV I would replace every light with LEDs and make ce

rtain all lights were 12V. You could use the 120Vac wires for low power 12v application. All my interior lights are LED. (replaced the 18in florescent tubes with LEDs).

good luck.
__________________
Libero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2012, 10:50 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
BFlinn181's Avatar
 
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 16,264
Quote:
Originally Posted by Libero View Post
But 120Vac wiring should never be coax as suggested. Coax is used in RF applications such as TV cables.

I suspect your 120vac wires use 14ga for 15A circuits and at least 10ga for 30A and may or may not be armor coated.
You are correct, I meant to say romex, but even that is not a generic name for 12-14 ga 120 v AC wiring. It is 3 wires in an insulating sheath, usually one black, (hot) one white, (neutral) and one bare wire, (ground) It is solid core wire. 12 volt DC wiring is usually 2 wires, positive and ground. The wire is often stranded.
__________________

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
BFlinn181 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2012, 11:40 AM   #9
Senior Member


 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,495
yes Romex is one term but I have heard others, I suspected it was a slip of the tounge so to speak re coax. I have done a lot of electrical work but am not an electrician so I am not familiar with all of the trade names. I am a very long time aeronautical engineer and I really appreciate knowing how the systems I am driving work and I dive in a bit deeper than some people might.

In any case tracing all the wiring is a good thing to do and I would replace all lights with LEDs if they were not so equipped. Much less current and lower heat generated for superior lighting.

I have schematics for my current RV but I traced the routing and connectivity just to become familiar when problems do crop up. Suggest every RV owner could benefit from this effort.

Good to exchange thoughts - I am in my 70s and my day is more complete by learning at least one thing each day.
__________________
Libero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2012, 11:50 AM   #10
Registered User
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 1,857
Loose Neutral

One problem that is very common to RV's is a loose neutral connection to the buss bar in the breaker box.

Even if they were to torque them down tight in the factory (they don't) they will come loose with age/motion/expansion-contraction etc. while you're in there check the hot & grounds too.
__________________
Muddypaws is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2012, 03:23 PM   #11
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 7
Okay, this is how I should have explained it before....

The breaker box/power converter completely stops buzzing and the 12v lighting goes out at the same time in the front part of the RV. Not sure about the rear lighting since it has been awhile since I messed with it since I got so disgusted with the thing.

The outlets and both A/C all seem to work fine.

The breaker box/power converter does this out of the blue and then comes back on out of the blue as well along with the lighting.
__________________
goitalone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2012, 07:48 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
BeltoneMagoo's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 400
An overloaded circuit breaker???
Good luck and safe travels!
__________________

__________________
Doug & Connie
2001 Holiday Rambler Imperial 41ft PBD 370hp ISL AF1 braking system
2001 Subaru Forester manual toad
BeltoneMagoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
lights



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:05 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.