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Old 11-10-2010, 05:55 PM   #15
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I just purchased a Lasko #6410 ceramic heater and it has no tip over switch, but does have overheat shutdown.

TXiceman, they don't "put out" 1500 watts, they use 1500 watts (input). I am not sure they give the same heat either. A 40 watt incandescent light will produce more heat than a 40 watt fluorescent light.

JC I though as the Resistance increased the heat produced would increase.
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Old 11-11-2010, 06:03 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete & Linda View Post
I just purchased a Lasko #6410 ceramic heater and it has no tip over switch, but does have overheat shutdown.

TXiceman, they don't "put out" 1500 watts, they use 1500 watts (input). I am not sure they give the same heat either. A 40 watt incandescent light will produce more heat than a 40 watt fluorescent light.

JC I though as the Resistance increased the heat produced would increase.
As the resistance through the heat element increases, the current drops, thus lowering the heat output. Limits the maximum temp of the element. Try it for your self. Using your hand, partially block the air intake on the back. The air flow will reduce but the temp of the air will remain about the same.

All electric heaters (and incandesent light bulbs) have no flue or other discharge to the outside. Thus they are by definition 100% efficient heaters. IE if you put 1500 watts in, you get 1500watts of heat out. The small portion of energy that a light bulb transmits as light energy is converted to heat when it strikes and lights up an object.

A 40 watt incandesent bulb will produce exactly the same amount of heat as a 40watt flouresent lamp. The 40 watt flouresent lamp will produce nearly 5 times as much light though. (a 40 watt flouresent lamp would be a 4 tube, 4ft long overhead fixture as an example) An 8 watt compact flouresent produces approx the same light as a 40 watt bulb.

JC Thorne
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Old 11-11-2010, 06:55 AM   #17
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If it runs face down it's not UL listed. Could be a Chinese knockoff. I'd return it to where ever you got it. UL requires the tip switch.
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Old 11-11-2010, 04:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
if you put 1500 watts in, you get 1500watts of heat out.
Hummmm! I always thought it was 1500 watts in and 1500 BTU out.
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Old 11-11-2010, 06:42 PM   #19
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Hi Pete & Linda,

I use a Caframo, electric heater with fan, 600, 900 & 1500 watt c/w two multi position switches and thermostat. It is very well built, low profile, sits on floor or counter. It would be very difficult to flip over, however when I tested it for this post, it did not shut off when inverted. I have had this heater for 3 years without any kind of problem. I have a 2007 35' Itasca and usually put the heater at the front of the MH and set the thermostat down low at night. It works great, heats up very quickly and the fan is not too noisy at the lower setting! I agree with other posts that you need supplementary LP heat if the temperature goes below freezing.
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Old 11-11-2010, 07:13 PM   #20
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We have used a Pelonis model 3LVL, (with fan) for several years in an Airstream without any problems, has a built in safety cut off, with three settings of 600, 900 and 1500 watts. Uses 12.5 amps in high setting. We now use the same unit in the H/R Neptune. It works great even below freezing temps, occasionally the LP furnace might kick in to supplement. The price at ACE hardware $14.99 (with $5.00 rebate - net $10 - during October - sorry too late) you could purchase a couple to have a spare for less than price of one other make. We just bought another one last month as a spare.
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Old 11-11-2010, 08:32 PM   #21
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This Lasko has a t stat and a timer. Seams to work well. Wish it had a remote. We have a Lasko tower heater at home w/remote and really like it, been working for 4 years.
This one dose not have a tip over sw. Got it at WM and about half of their heaters did not have the tip over sw. This one is not "UL" listed it is "ETL" listed, look them up. They are accredited as a "National Recognized Testing Laboratory" by OSHA and the Standards Council of Canada. Standards tested for North America..UL, ANSI, CSA, ASTW, NFPA. UL is kind of old school, before I retired from NCR (serviced large main frames for 27 years) we hardly ever saw "UL" listed. This computer I am on is "ETL" but the AC adapter is UL.
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Old 11-11-2010, 08:51 PM   #22
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A year ago I bought a catalytic heater that runs on the small propane bottles, only problem with running it in the bedroom was the heater panel lit up so much you could read a book.
I researched the value of catalytic vs electric and each had its assets, so now I have 2 electric-a small cube and an oscillating one. then I have the big one Catalytic. I only run the electric when we can vent.
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:11 PM   #23
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Use the ceramic cube heater with tip over switch for serveral years. Have a 2nd one in reserve but have never used it. Use the cubes as they take up less storage space, And Hey it is 1500 watts input but as long as it does the job I could care less what the calculated output. At my age I've learned not to sweat the small stuff
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:14 PM   #24
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Watts to btu's

Quote:
Originally Posted by Triker56 View Post
Hummmm! I always thought it was 1500 watts in and 1500 BTU out.

Heat is measured in BTU's.

Watts to Btus (IT)/Hour Conversion Calculator
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:54 AM   #25
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Hummmm! I always thought it was 1500 watts in and 1500 BTU out.
1500 watt heaters produce approximately 5,000 btu's heat.
when the temp gets below 40 deg, i use 3 of them in my moho, usually on the 750w setting. 2 work well when it is warmer.
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Old 11-14-2010, 10:11 AM   #26
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If you have a space heater, even an inexpensive one, you can contact the company who made it. Simply state that the safety device does not work. They will very often send you a new one after you send yours back. Honeywell did it for me, no hassle, and the new one is the newer model. This was before my radiant heat install.

If you just want to fool around on your spare time, go to this site. You can type in your MH surface area info and get back your BTU requirement. Notice the variable for your ΔT. The hotter you make the inside makes a difference in your heating requirement.

That's what I banked on with the Step Warmfloor radiant heat system. You FEEL warmer and your ΔT can be lowered.
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:52 PM   #27
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Sorry left out the link

Quote:
Originally Posted by WOODYDEL View Post
If you have a space heater, even an inexpensive one, you can contact the company who made it. Simply state that the safety device does not work. They will very often send you a new one after you send yours back. Honeywell did it for me, no hassle, and the new one is the newer model. This was before my radiant heat install.

If you just want to fool around on your spare time, go to this site. You can type in your MH surface area info and get back your BTU requirement. Notice the variable for your ΔT. The hotter you make the inside makes a difference in your heating requirement.

That's what I banked on with the Step Warmfloor radiant heat system. You FEEL warmer and your ΔT can be lowered.
Heat Transfer
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:32 PM   #28
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What type electric space heater does everyone use? Do you run it all night? I have one of the oil filled radiator type. It has no moving parts so I am comfortable running it all night. It also has a low temp no freeze setting that I use when the MH is stored. I want to get one with a fan as it should put out more heat. Don't think I would run it all night, but would use it while up watching TV etc.
It is important to remember that electric space heaters are limited to 1500 watts. What heater uses the 1500 watts with the most effency is so important. Most cube heaters use a coil like a toaster to heat the air. This is not affective. Others use oil filled "radiator" types. Good for a closed room, not an RV. I have found that the best electric heaters are ceramic with fans. You can direct heat to the bedroom or the living room depending on your need. I purchased a Lasko ceramic element heater at Wally World for $70 and it throws out a lot of heat. It keeps my 33 foot warm until it gets below 45 degrees. Remember, 1500 watts max will only give so much.
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