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11-08-2008, 02:56 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Blairsville,GA
Posts: 257
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The size should be on the nameplate of the convertor, usually not easily seen though, you can go with a larger unit, but the output will be limited by the fuse size protecting the wiring. The solenoid blowing was probally coincidental, unless the converter is allowing A/C voltage through, which is possible if the converter is failing. Mine started boiling the batteries when it failed due to it putting out 24 volts instead of 12. The 12 volt lights got really bright and started blowing bulbs.
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11-08-2008, 03:46 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: La Grange, North Carolina
Posts: 327
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Well I just about had to stand on my head, and with a flashlight and mirror was able to get the convertor information. It is a MagneTek 55 Amp Series 7200 Model 7255. It has an input of 105- 130 VAC and an output of 13.6 VDC, 55 Amps. The dang thing is under the refrigerator, and there is not going to be any way to access it without pulling out the fridge. How tough a job is that? Anything to watch out for?
__________________
Your never too old to have a happy childhood.
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11-09-2008, 04:35 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Blairsville,GA
Posts: 257
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It can be removed without taking out the refrigerator, it's just not easy. Unplug the converter from the receptacle. Remove the screws holding it down, there should be enough slack in the wires to pull it out through the access hole (the one made by removing the circuit breaker panel if you have not already done so) Be sure to have both coach and chassies batteries disconnected before doing this. Note were all wires are connected before disconnecting, polarity is extremly important when installing the new one! Re-install in reverse order.
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11-09-2008, 07:38 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: La Grange, North Carolina
Posts: 327
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No way this would come out without removing the fridge. The convertor box itself is larger than the access hole to get back to it. It is at the far back of this compartment with other electronic stuff including the breaker box in front of it. If by some miracle I was even able to locate the rear screws and get them out, I doubt that there is enough room to turn it around in there to be able to pull it out.
__________________
Your never too old to have a happy childhood.
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11-09-2008, 02:22 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Blairsville,GA
Posts: 257
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The electrical panel must be removed, unless yours is a whole lot different than what I have,(mine is a 96, a little newer) you should be able to remove it by taking out the screws that hold it to the wall, there is just enough slack that you can pull it out of the way enough to get the converter out. That's how I got mine out.
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11-10-2008, 03:13 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: La Grange, North Carolina
Posts: 327
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I'll check it out this weekend and see if that can happen. I appriciate your help Hillbilly2. I found the replacement that I need on the RV Upgrades site. Thanks RV Wizard, and Driver for that info.
__________________
Your never too old to have a happy childhood.
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