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Old 10-04-2007, 02:17 PM   #1
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Today I used the water pump briefly and noticed it was running eratically and then quit. Tried the switch a few times-no effect. I then noticed the status panel for the battery and tank levels would light dimmer and dimmer with each button press until there would be no lights at all. Left it alone for awhile and tried the panel again - same as above. It appears as if there is only a surface charge on the batteries that quickly dissapates. Checked both batteries and read 13.9-14.0 volts each. Last week I cleaned all battery terminals and coated with copper anti-sieze - so they should be good. Tried putting a load on the coach (assuming that powers the water pump)battey with the leveling system. Hydraulics worked fine, drawing 1/2 volt from the battery which was replaced within the hour.
Can someone suggest where to look next?
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Old 10-04-2007, 02:17 PM   #2
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Today I used the water pump briefly and noticed it was running eratically and then quit. Tried the switch a few times-no effect. I then noticed the status panel for the battery and tank levels would light dimmer and dimmer with each button press until there would be no lights at all. Left it alone for awhile and tried the panel again - same as above. It appears as if there is only a surface charge on the batteries that quickly dissapates. Checked both batteries and read 13.9-14.0 volts each. Last week I cleaned all battery terminals and coated with copper anti-sieze - so they should be good. Tried putting a load on the coach (assuming that powers the water pump)battey with the leveling system. Hydraulics worked fine, drawing 1/2 volt from the battery which was replaced within the hour.
Can someone suggest where to look next?
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Old 10-04-2007, 05:39 PM   #3
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up by the batterys there should be some breakers or fuses to protect the wire off the battery to the converter / fuse panel . I would check there , the main 40 amp fuse that powers the converter on my 2001 Holiday went bad last fall did the same thing. The room slide worked fine because it has a seporate feed back on the batterys. Also check the main ground connection on the frame to the battery.
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Old 10-04-2007, 05:41 PM   #4
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also you may have a loose connection at the coverter / fuse panel on the large gauge wire from the battery.
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Old 10-04-2007, 10:51 PM   #5
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Check ALL connections, especially the grounds on the frame. If you have good batteries and all connections are good then it is time to start at the batteries and work toward the 12 volt distribution panel with at volt meter finding where you loose good connections.
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Old 10-05-2007, 03:54 AM   #6
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I second Mile's recomendation. It appears you did not have the problem until after your cleaning. Therefore that is the area to start your checking of connections and verify that you did not forget to tighten or make an error in connection.
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Old 10-06-2007, 05:44 PM   #7
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If you put the anti-seize between the battery terminal and the cable end you may have inadvertently insulated it at the same time. Clean the connections completely (again), and check for 12V operations again. You may need to use a special solvent to remove the anti-seize compound. Even some greases insulate to a degree.
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Old 10-07-2007, 02:02 PM   #8
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I have a Question??

would wd40 be ok or would it do the same??

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Old 10-08-2007, 12:01 AM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by WaveMaker:
I have a Question??

would wd40 be ok or would it do the same??

Dean </div></BLOCKQUOTE> I wouldn't use anything in the connection. You want a clean tight conductive connection, then coat it. WD40 dries to a gummy, sticky film. Have you ever removed a battery cable and found a black coating on the post and clamp? That is oxidation and becomes an insulator just from exposure to air. I prefer to use a terminal spray product designed to protect a clean, tight connection from all outside contaminates. It dries quickly to form an air-tight coating which protects the connection from battery acid corrosion, air oxidation, etc. Vaseline will do practically the same function but collects dirt and becomes messy.
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Old 10-08-2007, 07:51 AM   #10
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i had gotten 2 T-105s the other day and i didnt put anything on them yet but a was thinking about using wd-40 thanks alot

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Old 10-08-2007, 11:08 AM   #11
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Dean,
I use an anti corrosion spray available in auto parts stores or even WalMart.
40 years ago I was supprised to see my father-in-law use WD40 to spray battery terminals at the shop where he worked (a boat repair shop for inboards up to 50 feet). As Ray said, it leaves a sticky film which protects it from corrosion.
In the Army they had us use axle grease, seemed to work all right. We did remove the cables, clean the terminals, and reapply the grease every month or so though.
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Old 10-08-2007, 05:21 PM   #12
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Loren:
Dean,
I use an anti corrosion spray available in auto parts stores or even WalMart.
40 years ago I was supprised to see my father-in-law use WD40 to spray battery terminals at the shop where he worked (a boat repair shop for inboards up to 50 feet). As Ray said, it leaves a sticky film which protects it from corrosion.
In the Army they had us use axle grease, seemed to work all right. We did remove the cables, clean the terminals, and reapply the grease every month or so though.
Loren </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

A lot of axle greases had higher pressure tolerances due to conductive additives such as aluminum, graphite etc. We lost a lot electic motors in the millworks because someone took a grease gun from the truck shop and put a conductive grease in them which would then short out the windings.

Even some of the cheap products for terminals sometimes do more harm then good.

Whatever is used you still need to check your batteries and their terminals on a regular basis.
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Old 10-09-2007, 01:12 PM   #13
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Fixed it. After checking all the connections in the battery compartment I moved to the coach battery shut-off switch up by the stairwell. Seems that when built, one terminal end had a little too much shrink tubing, preventing a solid contact and allowing corrosion.
As to the anti-sieze coating I am using. This tip came from the alternator (and other 12-24v electrical components) rebuilder. Any anti-sieze with a metallic component will work. I used a copper based one. The rebuilder uses anti-sieze on all their d/c installs.
Thanks for your replies.
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Old 10-25-2007, 11:43 AM   #14
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We have had very good results with GM Dielectric Lubricant, on our old Ford 6 volt electrical connections that sometimes corrode when sitting for a long time. 6 volt sytems need very clean connections to operate properly. Especially the "ground side". The General Motors part number for the 2 oz jar we use is; #12377900. GR8.800 Should be available from any GM parts source. Info on jar states; "GM electrical dielectric lubricant is used to protect electrical terminals, from moisture,oxidation, corrosion and to ease the assembly of electrical connections". Forgot to say say that we use it on our John Deere tractors also to keep water and dirt out of electrical connections. Works super for us. Love old cars; 1934, 1935 1947 Coupes and a 1948 Mercury convertible and 1957 chevrolet convertible.
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