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Old 10-23-2012, 08:30 PM   #1
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Electrical problem

Not sure who to ask -
Question - I have a 2007 Four Winds 23A Class C RV. Having lots of problems with the electrical system. Our 2 month old battery went dead after sitting 30 days in the yard after a 17 day trip. I recharge it and put a battery tender on the chassis battery. But I was told to remove the battery tender - and test the battery each day for a week. After the week - it had discharged .48 volts. I asked our dealer for a electrical layout - then I could determine what is draining this chassis battery. I also reay our owner book and they talk about a battery isolator controller and a battery isolator? I asked my dealer - what if this battry isolator is bad - could the chassis battery get drained - she said maybe - but she thought the computer on the engine was draining the battery? How is this possible - 30days and a dead battery? Ron any thoughts?
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:24 PM   #2
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rjrv, your chassis battery may power the radio memory,ECM & TCM memory and the LP detector if it doesn't have a switch in wiring circuit or the fuse pulled.
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:52 AM   #3
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Battery Issues

007 - thank you. Sounds like you understand the issue. Also - you did a very nice job on the cabinet & table improvement. Nice work
thanks
Ron
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:12 AM   #4
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Battey Draining

Quote:
Originally Posted by "007" View Post
rjrv, your chassis battery may power the radio memory,ECM & TCM memory and the LP detector if it doesn't have a switch in wiring circuit or the fuse pulled.
.
Dave: The Battery is 2 months old and is a RV Chassis -NAPA THE LEGEND PREMIUM 84. Part Number: 8478; Ser #: 2733465; BCI #: 78; Crancking @ 32 F 1020; CCA @ 0 F 850; Bar Code: 839961105

A very good battery. I am unable to get a wiring diagram from the dealer and even from Chev. Being very new - I'll ask a friend to help per your suggestions. Right now - I have a Battery tender on the Chassis Battery.
Thanks Dave
Ron
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:20 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjrvtravel
- what if this battery isolator is bad - could the chassis battery get drained -
I don't know how difficult it is to get to the connectors on your model, but if you remove one of the battery cables and use a multimeter to check the amperage between the cable and the battery post, you will see the severity of the drain. Replace the battery cable and repeat the same procedure at the connection to the isolator to see if that is where the current is going.

Remember that disconnecting the battery will require resetting things like the radio clock, but if the battery is going dead, you are doing that already.

Somebody mentioned chassis computers needing memory backup power. What is the implication of removing power? This would be a normal occurrence when changing batteries or cleaning contacts.
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:22 PM   #6
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The condition of the isolator is being questioned, but the battery is assumed to be good because it is new. Not always the case.

I have a hand-held battery tester. You tell it the CCA on the label and it returns the voltage and an estimated CCA on the battery under test. It comes in very handy when shopping for batteries. If three batteries on the rack show above the rated CCA (as expected for new batteries) and two noticeably below, I know to leave those two behind. My neighbors ask to borrow it all the time.

There are six batteries in the house bank on the boat and the meter is invaluable in finding the bad one.

I have yet to meet someone who can explain how the electronic tester does its magic, but it seems to work. The heavy traditional tester on the cart at the auto store has large resistors that place an actual load on the fully charged battery and the tester monitors the change in voltage and current. Maybe you can find a shop that will roll the cart out to the RV for you.

Suggest you test the battery first to ensure you are not chasing shadows through the rest of the circuitry.
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Old 10-25-2012, 01:55 PM   #7
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Electrical Problem

Well - thanks to all - the RV is going in tomorrow to get a bracket on the exhaust pipe fixed and he promised to test for the draining & will find it.
Again - I can see there are lots of "well informed" RV people out there - I appreciate your helping
Ron
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:11 PM   #8
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All modern motor homes have a significant drain on the chassis battery due to the keep alive currents needed.
As mentioned above there are several items such as the PTM (power train module) transmission control module, sometimes an anti skid module, radio memory and probably others.
My chassis battery will discharge in about three weeks if not charged. The keep alive drain on mine is about 0.150 amps as I recall.
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:36 PM   #9
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All modern motor homes have a significant drain on the chassis battery due to the keep alive currents needed.
As mentioned above there are several items such as the PTM (power train module) transmission control module, sometimes an anti skid module, radio memory and probably others.
My chassis battery will discharge in about three weeks if not charged. The keep alive drain on mine is about 0.150 amps as I recall.
Disagree chassis battery parasitic draw should be .020 to .050 amps..........yours with a .150 amps is "broken"
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:11 PM   #10
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Whenever I leave my RV, I always flip the disconnects in the battery bay. Disconnected, the batteries will hold a charge (in warm weather) for a VERY long time.

Hooked up, the chassis battery is good for a week, the house (4 6v U2200's) maybe 3 days.

This is normal. Hell, with nothing on, my inverter draws 9 amps if I forget to shut it off!
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:01 AM   #11
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Electrical Problem - Most Likely solved

Well - thanks to all. I believe owning a RV means one needs to understand draining of the battery is normal - lots of little things that are wanting the use of the battery. So - I'll either get a disconnect switch (we don't have one) or I'll leave the battery tender on when not in use and connect to the shore when pending our next trip. Again - thanks for all the help - your all great.
Ron
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:31 PM   #12
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Disagree chassis battery parasitic draw should be .020 to .050 amps..........yours with a .150 amps is "broken"
It totallly depends on the coach itself. They are NOT ALL THE SAME.
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjrvtravel View Post
Dave: The Battery is 2 months old and is a RV Chassis -NAPA THE LEGEND PREMIUM 84. Part Number: 8478; Ser #: 2733465; BCI #: 78; Crancking @ 32 F 1020; CCA @ 0 F 850; Bar Code: 839961105

A very good battery. I am unable to get a wiring diagram from the dealer and even from Chev. Being very new - I'll ask a friend to help per your suggestions. Right now - I have a Battery tender on the Chassis Battery.
Thanks Dave
Ron
You can get GM electrical drawing on GM Upfitter Site.
For a 2007 you will have to select Body Builder Manuals. Then Light Duty Prior to 2010. Look on page for Light Duty 2007. Then select G/H Full Size Vans. You will find a full set of electrical drawings for the GM part of your MH. There are also mechanical drawing that after market manufactures use to integrate their products with GM products.
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
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It totallly depends on the coach itself. They are NOT ALL THE SAME.
Exactly right.

According to Workhorse my drain is normal.
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