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Old 12-20-2014, 03:57 AM   #15
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On my previous 50 amp coach, I added a separate circuit with it's own power cord. When staying at parks with 30 amps, I plugged my second cord into the 15/20 amp outlet of the campgrounds power pole and it powered a receptacle in my main living area and one in my bathroom. This gave us 15 extra amps (on top of the 30 amps) for plugging in a heater or my wife's hair dryer. It worked great. It essentially gave us 45 amps at a 30 amp campground.
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Old 12-20-2014, 06:06 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the trainguy View Post
Dryers have always required a neutral.

Years ago they had a 3 wire plug.

2 blades were for the 240 portion(heating) while the 3rd blade is the neutral for the motor and controls.

It went to a 4 blade plug/receptacle when the NEC required a separate dedicated equipment ground.

The same scenario also applies to 50 amp range plugs/receptacle which is exactly what a 50 amp RV cord plug is.

I have been an electrician for 50+ years and some of the the info I see posted on this forum , by well meaning members, is downright scary as someone is going to get hurt or killed eventually.

Please let qualified electricians do this type of work.

To try and piggy back 15,30 or 50 amp cords together is downright dangerous!

Yep you're right reread what I typed and it was not what I meant to way
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Old 12-20-2014, 06:19 AM   #17
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Those that corrected earlier statements about 240 volts vs 120 volts on a 50 amp plug are correct. The 50 amp plug is identical in physical shape and wiring as what is in your house. However, RV 30 amp plugs are only 120 volts while a house 30 amp plug is 240 volts. Another thing to consider is that 50 amp plugs provide 12000 watts while 30 amp plugs only provide 3600 watts - a big difference in the amount of power available. And, if you are tempted to do any wiring yourself, be aware that the RV segregates the two 120 volt legs of the 50 amp service in such a way as to never utilize 240 volts (possibly some RVs are an exception on certain appliances).
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Old 12-20-2014, 06:39 AM   #18
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Before we purchased our current MH we had a trailer that was 30 amp. I had a friend help me construct a box that plugs into a campground 50 amp receptacle. I then have a 30 amp receptacle for normal 30 amp trailer or MH plug and an additional separate 15 amp receptacle (with its own circuit breaker) to plug an extension cord into. I used this to power a portable single room A/C. Worked flawlessly.
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Old 12-20-2014, 06:50 AM   #19
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You can also buy a pigtail to do that:
Amazon.com : Conntek RV Y Adatper with 50 Amp Male Plug To RV 30 Amp and 15/20 Amp Female Connector (3-Feet) : Boating Shore Power Cords : Sports & Outdoors

/
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Old 12-20-2014, 07:05 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by pop-sicle View Post
Our new 2 us Coachmen is 30 amp setup, so what I am wondering if anybody has made or is available a junction box or a way to use the 50 amp at camp site run it into a junction box where you would plug in 30 am coach then split off and take advantage of the other 20 amps.

So from what I have been told 50 amp is 220 so I know will just have to pick up one the 120 line of 220 for coach.
There are many half truths out there and that 220 (240 actually) is one of them it is 240/120 volts,,, You may have noticed the 50 amp outlet has 4 contacts we will talk only about the flat ones (Forget the round, U or D shaped one, it is safety ground).. Measured either side to center is 120 volts, measured side to side is 240.

That said, they make a Y cord with two TT-30 outlets and one 50 amp plug, (you can pull not an additional 20 but you really have two 120 volt 50 amp circuits there for this discussion, so you can pull another 30 if you like)

And here it is
50 Amp Male to Two 30 Amp Females RV Y Cord Adapter 18" Dogbone Cable Converter | eBay
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Old 12-20-2014, 07:52 AM   #21
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Trust, but verify, even if a qualified electrician has done the installation. Many rvers have paid the price after having a "30 amp" outlet installed. Learn how to use a voltmeter safely. Lots of good you tubes available.
http://www.myrv.us/electric/


Check this site out. Very thorough.
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Old 12-20-2014, 08:00 AM   #22
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grounded neutral

all neutrals are grounded, at the service, and all grounds (bare copper) are grounded, and on alternating currents the neutral is only neutral half the time, this is where people get hurt, thinking the neutral is safe, which it is when not in use, if you get in between the neutral and another source, or a ground while the hot is in use on that circuit you are in between the cycles of the circuit, and it will light you up when your body completes the circuit, if the breaker is off there will be no potential, {and in the old days}, they let us use a three wire circuit for a dryer outlet, {yes it was legal}, I forget when it changed since I didn't do a lot of house wiring, most of the work I have done was industrial,,, but some where I think in the 1980's they started requiring a three wire with ground circuit home run, which was 240 with a neutral and ground, where things are hard for people to understand, is that the ground and the neutral are both one in the same, the difference is the path, electricity will the path of least resistance, and when in use the path to what ever is being used will be the least resistance, and not short, but if you take that same wire which is being used for that circuit (neutral) and ground it, it will short out, like taking a hot to ground. at the breaker panel the neutral is grounded, they require this at the main service of any main service, all other services off the main do not require the neutral to be grounded, actually they frown on it if they see it, but most inspectors don't really know what they are suppose to look for, they just know where the main service needs to be grounded and look for that, well in my dealing with them anyway,,
and not disputing the 50 amp circuits at the camp sites or anything else, because I never checked them with a meter, I am assuming without being a ass, that the dryer are 110 volts? or they have a converter in the coach to convert the other phase to create 220-240 for the dryer? only those that have the experience, or owners would know that,,,,,, I personally have never asked or read,,, I am just running my thoughts, and trying to comment for the fun, not wanting to be a know it all, sometime words do not come out the way it would if a couple of guys would be talking face to face,
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Old 12-20-2014, 08:37 AM   #23
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but if you take that same wire which is being used for that circuit (neutral) and ground it, it will short out, like taking a hot to ground.
Not sure what you are trying to say here but the neutral and ground run in parallel back to the the breaker box where they are tied together.
The only way there would be a short to ground or the ground wire is if the neutral was open between your point of contact and breaker box.
The neutral should always be or near zero ohms to ground.



OR looking at it a different way:
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Old 12-20-2014, 08:48 AM   #24
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"while the 3rd blade is the neutral for the motor and controls."

That reads a little unclear to me, though accurate.

My understanding is that a stove range and a dryer have some 120 volt devices in them that require the neutral. The range has top burners that run off from 120 volts and usually have a clock, oven light and receptacle that are 120 volts as well. The dryer has a 120 volt motor and control system so the manufacturer only has to stock one voltage motor and control stuff for both the gas and electric dryer The water heater has only 240 volt heater elements and doesn't need the neutral to produce 120 volts, so it just uses the ground to complete a circuit? Maybe with 240 volts the neutral is not a sufficiently conducting pathway?
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Old 12-20-2014, 09:08 AM   #25
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As you can see from the dryer diagram below the dryer has a three prong plug with no ground.
Either hot leg to neutral is 120VAC and hot leg to hot leg is 240VAC.

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Old 12-20-2014, 09:17 AM   #26
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The stove is about the same, the burners are 240VAC (between L1 & L2) and the control is 120VAC.

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Old 12-20-2014, 09:19 AM   #27
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Think its all been said many ways--and perhaps many times here. I cant add to the discussion at this point but maybe I can simplify things a bit. Except for maybe a "mega-coach" of some kind, most/all rigs won't combine the two incoming 120v [50 amp] legs to create 240 volts. I think the confusion here is that some how a single wire/prong in a std 30 or 50 amp plug would contain 240 volts--not possible. The two 120 volt legs remain segregated until they reach the appliance[ eg, hot water heater, furnace, kitchen range] to produce 240 volts.

50 amp RV plugs are exactly like residential stove plugs--harder to mess up [IMHO] unless you mis-wire the plug and a 120 leg ends up on the grd or neutral Vs the two flat blades on either side. The 30 amp RV plug provides a greater chance for a screw-up. A 30 amp plug in residential provides 240 volts on three [now four] prongs [typical use is for a water heater]. It would be fairly easy for even a "qualified" electrician to confuse a 30 amp [240 volt] residential application for a 30amp [120volt] RV plug. Or, at the least, reverse the polarity. Fortunately for me, my Progressive Industry surge protector caught the problem and saved my bacon. So trust but verify with a quality surge protector!!!!!!!

I probably didnt get it all correct here but think that maybe it starts to sort out what is and isnt probable.
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Old 12-20-2014, 02:08 PM   #28
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Wow... This is so basic and yet folks do not understand

The power transformer (Be it on the pole or in a box on, or under, the ground) there has a primary, this is hooked to the high tension (Very high voltage) lines that run around the country, and a secondary This is the part that delivers your power to your house, Be it Sticks & Bricks or wheeled.

This secondary is center tapped,, That is the 240 volt winding, in the exact center, has a Tap, (3rd wire) this is the neutral, it is always the neutral,

At the service box it is tied to ground In a campground this may be the outlet box or the master panel back where the meter hides,depending on the code in that place.

The problem with trusting grounds is that ground is not always zero. There can be a rather large difference between two different ground rods.
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