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Old 08-19-2012, 01:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
Identifying the clogged areas done pretty easily by holding up a small rag or something (I've used a sanitary glove as well?) in back of the rad. with the engine running. It should blow straight out with the engine idling at 1000rpm or so.

Mine was pretty gunked up when I got it. PO was clueless regarding the slobber tube output. I've used Gunk degreaser, kerosene, and lots & lots of water and patience. Nozzle on garden hose can be pretty effective at close range. Crawling right into the engine compartment so you can see/reach what you're doing. Flashlight in hand is a big help. I've worked from both sides, engine running and not. Think I have it pretty well cleaned out now. Rag will blow straight out no matter where I hold it!
thanks bro looks like we have the same coach
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Old 08-19-2012, 01:23 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by ronspradley View Post
I do not remember the brand that is bio-degradable but they are all on the same shelf at the auto parts store. Just look for the one that says it is not petroleum based. Like the citrus based ones. And I have read here on the forum that Simple Green is not good for the aluminum on a radiator? I have no personal experience with Simple Green on a radiator. Hope this helps.

ronspradley
Simple green has a product that Was developed to clean aircraft. They, aircraft are aluminum. Used it on my CAC, did a great job. Mix in a 1 gallon sprayer pump up real good slide under the coach. With the sprayer you will be able to reach hard to spots. Spray the outside of the radiator also. Let set awhile wash with hose job complete google up Simple Green aluminum cleaner. Think I ordered it through Amazon!
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Old 08-19-2012, 02:01 PM   #17
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As Clayobx stated.
Purchase a weed pump sprayer and purchase Simple Green Pro HD it is purple in
color and safe for aircraft.
Mix almost one to one then wet down all areas you want to clean before applying
the Simple Green.
Spray Simple Green until the area is soaked then let stand 15 minutes and flush with
mild spray from hose.
You repeat until nothing but clear water drains out of cleaned areas.
I found forcing SG thru the vains from the outside worked wonders along with soaking the inside.
Running the engine helps blow the crud out of the radiator but do not let SG dry
before flushing well.
As stated above normal Simple Green will take for ever to work but the Pro HD
will and can be gotten at most hardware stores.
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Old 08-19-2012, 02:19 PM   #18
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Why purchase anything when you can just get Gunk Engine Degreaser in a spray can that will cut the grease and oil and will wash right off with with a water hose. Simple Green is great but just can't cut heavy grease or oil mixed with dirt. I have tried to wash engines off with Simple Green and it just is not strong enough
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Old 08-20-2012, 12:20 AM   #19
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Why purchase anything when you can just get Gunk Engine Degreaser in a spray can that will cut the grease and oil and will wash right off with with a water hose. Simple Green is great but just can't cut heavy grease or oil mixed with dirt. I have tried to wash engines off with Simple Green and it just is not strong enough
That's why you mix a 50/50 solution of Simple Green and Dawn DL instead of SG by itself. Dawn is one of the best degreaser's that I have found.

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Old 08-21-2012, 04:56 AM   #20
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One does need to be carefull with the water pressure that you don't flatten the fins on the rad or CAC. I also extended and rerouted the slobber tube to the rear of the coach.
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Old 08-21-2012, 06:01 AM   #21
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I have read that you should clean the radiator at some interval but I do not know how often? I am sure that some of this has to do with where you have been operating and you should inspect to remove any trash, newspaper, leaves, etc. that may have gotton sucked in and trapped. As many of you know it is difficult to inspect the front side of a DP radiator and some of what I have seen has to do with your installation.

Now after saying all this is once a year the average inspection/cleaning cycle or would the recommendation be something shorter/longer? I just rolled over 2000 miles so I think I have some time but I do not know how quickly they can clog making it more difficult to clean.
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Old 08-21-2012, 06:53 AM   #22
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One does need to be carefull with the water pressure that you don't flatten the fins on the rad or CAC. I also extended and rerouted the slobber tube to the rear of the coach.


I tried the rerouting of the slobber tube once, but the toad kept getting oil spots on her. So I attached a small 1 quart plastic bottle to the bottom of the original tube to catch and hold slobber oil. It worked fantastically! No more oil/dirt clogged radiator or oil spots on the toad.
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:43 PM   #23
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I cleaned mine with Awesome from the Dollar Store. Have a side radiator, idled up to 1500 and rinsed with water, then soaked with awesome, engine running,shut off and let sit for about 15 minutes, started up turned up idle to1500 and rinsed with water hose. I just let the hose run wide open and went all around the radiator until suds were gone and water clear. That fan really sucks it through and water really flies. As I said I had a side radiator and AC condenser and air charge cooler are all in front of radiator so I had to do something to suck it through. Long story but clean radiator. Jim
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:01 PM   #24
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I cleaned mine with Awesome from the Dollar Store. Have a side radiator, idled up to 1500 and rinsed with water, then soaked with awesome, engine running,shut off and let sit for about 15 minutes, started up turned up idle to1500 and rinsed with water hose. I just let the hose run wide open and went all around the radiator until suds were gone and water clear. That fan really sucks it through and water really flies. As I said I had a side radiator and AC condenser and air charge cooler are all in front of radiator so I had to do something to suck it through. Long story but clean radiator. Jim

actually i was wondering about awesome its great stuff 4 sure
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Old 08-07-2013, 03:20 PM   #25
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One does need to be carefull with the water pressure that you don't flatten the fins on the rad or CAC. I also extended and rerouted the slobber tube to the rear of the coach.

Any tips on extending that tube?

Any photos posted somewhere?
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:23 PM   #26
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Kerosene or diesel in a spray bottle. Place card board between the rad and motor for cleanliness. Set spray tip to medium mist so it's kinda still shooting forward. Saturate all channels on the rad and condenser. Let soak for 15 - 20 minutes then get in there front and back with a long bristles medium duty dust stye brush. Really just have to go over the whole thing front and back. Spray off with garden sprayer loaded with dawn dish soap, then follow up with water. She'll be shining like a gem!
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:06 PM   #27
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Yes, got a gallon of degreaser and a cheap garden sprayer and spent a long time in the Whitehorse truck wash.
Did the job - eventually.

Need to assume that whatever you use might be corrosive unless washed off in a reasonable time
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:26 PM   #28
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Since I had a partial can of foaming coil cleaner left-over from cleaning my house air conditioner condenser coil (aluminum), I used it to clean my MH radiator. It worked just as well as on the house condenser coil, great. The dirt seemed to just melt with the foam and rinsed away easily. Although my side-radiator doesn't get very dirty, I was surprised at the dirt that rinsed out.
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