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Old 10-17-2016, 05:07 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Itasker View Post
Well Dr Dave, 2 shops said it was good, but it's still running hot and exploding out the overflow tank. Shop 3 didn't test, it was just a phone call and a hunch because shop 1 and 2 didn't fix the problem.

At this point the first thing I would do is take the radiator cap to your local NAPA auto parts store and have them get you a new one. Also take the vehicle/engine info with you, NAPA will be able to look up the correct cap for your vehicle and verify it is what you are getting. If that does not resolve you overflowing antifreeze then you need to find out if in fact your cooling system is going over temp, get a good temp gauge that reads in degrees (you should do this anyway). If you confirm you are going over temp then you need to look for a problem, either a bad core or a restricted flow, a bad/crimped hose. You also need to look at the heater loop for problems.

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2005 38' FDTS Alpine Limited, 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:46 PM   #16
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Smile Temp over heat and the numbers

The numbers for thermostats
It takes 24 degrees to FULLY open a thermostat... STANT Engineering #s

So, if I have a 180 thermostat +- 1 degrees accuracy == cracks open at 180+1 degrees and is fully open at 204 ( 8 below boil) when stat is full open it is asking for all of the cooling that the Rad can provide with standard clutch fan operation..... Most heavy duty clutch fans are engaged by a thermal spring expanding to open internally a reservoir of gooogh to migrate out under centrifugal force to help lock up the clutch to current water pump RMP , and as the air cools the thermal spring and the window closes and the fluid goes back into the reservoir to used again later.

Numbers for rad cap 's at 3 degrees per pound of pressure:

7 lb. cap = 21 degrees to 212 ( boiling) = 232 of temp inside the radiator before the cap will release water to the overflown reservoir tank
10 lb. cap =30 212 = 242
13 lb. cap =39 212 = 251
16 lb. cap =48 212 = 260

Hope you can see the importance of the pressure cap and its usage,,,,, if you have no ability to pressurize the system then you have no hi water temp control and cooling

195 thermostat opens at = - 1 degree and is full open at 219 ( which IS above the boil point ) and must be pressurized to work properly. So this is where your clutch fan should work well ..... Hope this makes some sense

I used a thermal sensor to prove all of this thousands of times to Radiator customers ....

Heide and Dennis 08 Newmar Ventana ISB - 350 Hp. Vet, Not Politically correct, No beatin the bush, Tow 2007 HHR and 2003 1800 GW
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Old 10-17-2016, 07:18 PM   #17
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I can't believe all the awesome help here. Looking forward to getting to do some of the simpler things myself before taking it to the shop.
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Old 10-18-2016, 08:23 PM   #18
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Does the fact that the oil temp is high, and not the water temp indicate anything? Are there oil coolers that could be bad?
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Old 10-18-2016, 08:52 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Itasker View Post
Does the fact that the oil temp is high, and not the water temp indicate anything? Are there oil coolers that could be bad?
The gauge in your picture shows oil pressure, not temperature. Do you have another gauge that shows oil temperature? Either way, i don't think your oil pressure/temp is causing the coolant overflow.

As has been mentioned, replacing the radiator cap may take care of the issue. I'm just not sure why 2 different radiator shops weren't able to figure this out.
03 Itasca Sunova, Workhorse P32 chassis with the 8.1 and 4L80-E
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Old 10-18-2016, 10:06 PM   #20
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I'm sorry I'm so new to this engine, I only have minimal experience with auto repair and that's on the family 65 beetle.

I believe I have figured out the issue.

We live in a small town with horrible, bumpy roads. I had been driving the rig around to get used to it for all sorts of things for weeks.

I think what happened is since i took a particularly bad road to the park a week ago, it actually popped off the already week coolent overflow reservoir cap, and the hot coolent spilled out.

Whatever that oil Guage is for, it did get hotter at that point.

That Guage got stuck.

I took the Guage out and messed with it, also hooked up a hose to the air cleaner that came disconnected, and now it seems back to normal.

Thank you again for everyone's input, it makes me feel happy to be a part of the RV world now.
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:21 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Itasker View Post
Does the fact that the oil temp is high, and not the water temp indicate anything? Are there oil coolers that could be bad?

How do you know the oil temp is high?

On a working engine......fully hot after more than 30 minutes under load.....the OT should be just about the same as the coolant temp. 212F/100C.

Get a non contact IR thermometer. Measure yor WT at the top for engine wher the upper rad hose comes out. Thermostat is right below it.

Shut it down. Pull the dipstick and quicky measure the oil drop on the end. On a working engine the temps should be about the same.

Are you absolutely sure you have all the minor hoses routed correctly??????????

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