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Old 07-17-2013, 01:17 AM   #15
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 4
Hi Folks,

The people at Transmission Instruments down in Texas looked at my ECU and said there was nothing wrong with it. John at Transmission Instruments was very helpful to say the least and steered me in the right direction. If anyone has a problem with their ECU/WTEC 2 unit I would recommend them.

I received the ECU/WTEC2 trouble shooting manual just after I sent the ECU down and with some of John's suggestions I found out that the ECU is power directly from the engine batteries. On my RV there are 2 wires, one connected to the negative post and the other to the positive post. I made the assumption that the ECU was powered from a common source within the RV and grounded there also. Well, after looking at the trouble shooting manual. I found out which pins in the umbilical cord were constant 12V. and which ones were grounds. To make along story short, the wire connected to the negative post was broken inside the connector and causing intermittent contact. I repaired the connection and everything is running again.

It was a bit of a rollercoaster ride trying to figure things out, especially without the proper information but I'm alot more wiser. Thanks for your help.

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Old 07-18-2013, 05:38 PM   #16
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 11,963
Thanks for posting that you found your problem and have it fixed.
I'll try and remember your repair, if I see someone with the same problem; honest I'll try.

99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
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Old 08-02-2013, 02:24 PM   #17
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 170
You might have a bad ignition switch or key tumbler. I had an intermittent problem a while back, the dash nothing would come on then it would. When I replaced the ignition switch I opened up the old switch and the guts fell on the ground. Does your key feel rough when you turn it?

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