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04-11-2018, 09:33 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 917
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Entry door adjustment
On a 2007 Lexington, the entry door closes poorly. There is roughly 1/4 inch gap in parts of the door. If there is an adjustment, I don't see it. My latch and striker look like this:
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
2007 Forest River Lexington Ford E450 Chassis
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04-11-2018, 10:11 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 31,486
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Judging from what I can see in the photos; what appears to be a contact area in the area ahead of the latch sliding pin ; the door's hinge may have sagged, or the frame work of the RV has gone , off square.
Check the frame and door with a builder's square.
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99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
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04-11-2018, 03:08 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Manitowoc, WI
Posts: 126
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My door has the same striker setup, and my door is tight on the hinge side. The issue is the bottom on the striker side is tight, but the top has a 1/4” gap. I loosend the 2 philips head screws and adjusted the striker what I could, but it’s not enough. My next attempt is going to be tilting the lower side of the striker to push the bottom out, which has to bring the top in. My issue is that it’s too cold here in Wisconsin to mess with the motorhome to try this.
Where are the gaps for you?
__________________
2004 National Seabreeze LX (8321) Workhorse W-22
Towing: 2010 Subaru Impreza
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04-11-2018, 03:35 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJHUB
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Where are the gaps for you?
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My gaps are worse at the top. I got some very thick (1/2") weatherstripping that I want to try out.
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
2007 Forest River Lexington Ford E450 Chassis
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04-11-2018, 03:35 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJHUB
Where are the gaps for you?
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My gaps are worse at the top. I got some very thick (1/2") weatherstripping that I want to try out.
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
2007 Forest River Lexington Ford E450 Chassis
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04-11-2018, 03:44 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Manitowoc, WI
Posts: 126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh
My gaps are worse at the top. I got some very thick (1/2") weatherstripping that I want to try out.
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I’m not sure thicker stripping is the solution. Nothing appears wrong. If something was wrong, wouldn’t the pins not hit the striker plate wrong? Nothing is sagging or out of place, so it’s something more simple. Is there a second striker plate behind the one visible? Maybe there is a second plate behind the first one that is meant to adjust where the bolt gets held in place? Maybe that’s what’s wrong with mine too?
__________________
2004 National Seabreeze LX (8321) Workhorse W-22
Towing: 2010 Subaru Impreza
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04-11-2018, 03:48 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJHUB
Maybe there is a second plate behind the first one that is meant to adjust where the bolt gets held in place? Maybe that’s what’s wrong with mine too?
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I wondered about this. I removed the striker and looked at the back, no adjustment. It is all one piece.
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
2007 Forest River Lexington Ford E450 Chassis
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04-11-2018, 04:36 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Manitowoc, WI
Posts: 126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh
I wondered about this. I removed the striker and looked at the back, no adjustment. It is all one piece.
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Bummer. Mine has 2 plates, but I don’t know if the second plate is used for adjustment or not.
__________________
2004 National Seabreeze LX (8321) Workhorse W-22
Towing: 2010 Subaru Impreza
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04-11-2018, 06:42 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJHUB
Bummer. Mine has 2 plates, but I don’t know if the second plate is used for adjustment or not.
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Yours likely has two plates to make the door latch catch. The reveal of the door to frame is likely large enough to cause and issue with only one strike plate. You would have to adjust them both at the same time to make any difference to you.
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04-11-2018, 06:44 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh
On a 2007 Lexington, the entry door closes poorly. There is roughly 1/4 inch gap in parts of the door. If there is an adjustment, I don't see it. My latch and striker look like this:
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One or both of the striker guides will move around for you to adjust....you just need the right torx on a ratchet to do this job. The guides will help align the door latch to where you set it.
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04-12-2018, 12:45 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PPCPilot
One or both of the striker guides will move around for you to adjust....you just need the right torx on a ratchet to do this job. The guides will help align the door latch to where you set it.
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I have completely removed both sides from the RV. There is no adjustment. The guides (with TORX) go into one spot, one way. The entire assembly is fixed by the phillips screws.
On the other side, it screws into one spot.
I tried the thicker weatherstripping and it looks good. I haven't road tested it yer.
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
2007 Forest River Lexington Ford E450 Chassis
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04-12-2018, 01:51 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club Overland Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Mid-Missouri
Posts: 889
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I can think of two possible solutions.
You can remove the striker plate, grind the screw holes into slots and reinstall with adjustment.
Or, you can remove the striker plate, grind the guide slots to allow the door to close correctly and reinstall with a smooth closing door.
My latch is a different model (as is my coach) and I ended up grinding the receiver slot for my lathing pin to get mine to shut nicely.
__________________
Mike and Carla
1998 42' Overland Larado Diesel Pusher
On the road - here and there - Full Timing
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04-12-2018, 09:30 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,209
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Maybe the door is a little sprung. My new RV had that problem. Dealer straightened the door. Perfect fit now. Looks perfect. Closes perfect.
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04-13-2018, 05:16 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh
I have completely removed both sides from the RV. There is no adjustment. The guides (with TORX) go into one spot, one way. The entire assembly is fixed by the phillips screws.
On the other side, it screws into one spot.
I tried the thicker weatherstripping and it looks good. I haven't road tested it yer.
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You know I just went back and re-read your original post where you stated that the door closes good...I missed that statement somehow. Trying to adjust the door latch wouldn't do you any good to take up the space you mentioned. The weatherstripping that you did was one of the only solutions other than making hinge adjustments to straighten the door. Your route was much safer than that!
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