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Old 02-09-2015, 03:28 PM   #15
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OK Richard, I got mine installed today!

You use the old outside metal plate, but peel off the rubberized overlay that has the numbers on it and the holes for the buttons. Remove the two small screws that hold the metal plate to the keypad.

On the front of the new keypad you will notice that the plastic where the screws from the plate come through is raised about 1/8" above the face of the keypad. You will need to put the keypad in a vise and use a file to cut down the raised plastic around the screw holes so that it is flat with the face of the keypad. If you don't do this the push buttons won't protrude through the overlay holes far enough!

Attach the metal plate to the keypad using the two small counter-sunk screws.

The new keypad comes with a stick-on overlay. Clean the metal plate good with alcohol and stick the new overlay to it, being VERY careful to line up the holes. ALSO, before you stick it on, the keypad has a sticker on one side that says "this side up", so be sure your numbers are not upside down!

I used the red (18-24AWG) butt connectors to splice the wires. I cut the red and black wires from the old keypad first to kill the power while I spliced the others. The wire colors match, with slight variations in shade.

The last step is to mount the keypad to the wall. There are two nuts inside the wall for the plate mounting screws. They were cemented in place originally, but came loose and dropped down inside the wall when I took the old keypad out. That's not a problem on our coaches because you can remove the cupholder, reach all the way down to the floor for the nuts, and hold them on the screws. I had to get Annette to tighten the screws while I held the nuts. Before you mount the keypad, put a bead of clear silicone caulk around the inside of the plate to seal it against rain.

The new keypad buttons light blue instead of red, giving it a more modern appearance!

Well, that's about it! Have fun!
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:28 PM   #16
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Joe,

Thanks for doing the footwork on the correct method of installation.

I am postponing the task for now. The old keypad is working intermittently now, some days it works and some days it doesn't.

When it completely fails it will be replaced which could be any day now.

Thanks again, Joe.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:55 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
Joe,

Thanks for doing the footwork on the correct method of installation.

I am postponing the task for now. The old keypad is working intermittently now, some days it works and some days it doesn't.

When it completely fails it will be replaced which could be any day now.

Thanks again, Joe.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

Yep, my old one started working again, but I decided to go ahead and install the new one and keep the old one for a backup!
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:12 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers View Post
OK Richard, I got mine installed today!

You use the old outside metal plate, but peel off the rubberized overlay that has the numbers on it and the holes for the buttons. Remove the two small screws that hold the metal plate to the keypad.

On the front of the new keypad you will notice that the plastic where the screws from the plate come through is raised about 1/8" above the face of the keypad. You will need to put the keypad in a vise and use a file to cut down the raised plastic around the screw holes so that it is flat with the face of the keypad. If you don't do this the push buttons won't protrude through the overlay holes far enough!

Attach the metal plate to the keypad using the two small counter-sunk screws.

The new keypad comes with a stick-on overlay. Clean the metal plate good with alcohol and stick the new overlay to it, being VERY careful to line up the holes. ALSO, before you stick it on, the keypad has a sticker on one side that says "this side up", so be sure your numbers are not upside down!

I used the red (18-24AWG) butt connectors to splice the wires. I cut the red and black wires from the old keypad first to kill the power while I spliced the others. The wire colors match, with slight variations in shade.

The last step is to mount the keypad to the wall. There are two nuts inside the wall for the plate mounting screws. They were cemented in place originally, but came loose and dropped down inside the wall when I took the old keypad out. That's not a problem on our coaches because you can remove the cupholder, reach all the way down to the floor for the nuts, and hold them on the screws. I had to get Annette to tighten the screws while I held the nuts. Before you mount the keypad, put a bead of clear silicone caulk around the inside of the plate to seal it against rain.

The new keypad buttons light blue instead of red, giving it a more modern appearance!

Well, that's about it! Have fun!

Great write up Joe. One of my number lights on the OEM keypad went out a couple of weeks ago. The pad is still working but I was very glad to see your write up. I'm sure a replacement is in my future.

Question. Does the new keypad work with the OEM remote key fob? Also do you have to reprogram the unlock code when the new pad is installed?


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Old 02-10-2015, 09:21 AM   #19
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Steve, I couldn't keep the wireless keyfob working so I just pitched it a long time ago! The control is still there for it.

I did reprogram the code after installing the new keypad. The guy where I bought the keypad said it was totally self-contained, the "brains" built into the keypad. The other control under the dash is strictly for the wireless keyfob!
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:27 AM   #20
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Question. Does the new keypad work with the OEM remote key fob? Also do you have to reprogram the unlock code when the new pad is installed?


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Steve,

Since Joe doesn't use a Key Fob I will answer for him.

The key fob communicates with the brain tucked under the dash so if the key pad stops functioning the key fob still works.

The master code and your PIN is also stored in the brain under the dash so that does not get changed unless you use the little button attached to the brain box that is tucked under the dash too.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:30 AM   #21
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Richard, maybe I misunderstood the guy. Are you saying that the keypad does not store the code? I did go through the programming procedure, pushing the button under the dash.
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:30 AM   #22
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Thanks Joe & Richard. I'm currently on a walkabout until mid April. I'll put this on the back burner until I have some time in one spot.

Great to have forum buddies who have blazed the trail.


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Old 02-10-2015, 09:31 AM   #23
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Thanks Joe & Richard. I'm currently on a walkabout until mid April. I'll put this on the back burner until I have some time in one spot.

Great to have forum buddies who have blazed the trail.


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OK, I give up! What's a "walkabout" ?
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:10 AM   #24
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OK, I give up! What's a "walkabout" ?

I picked that up from the first Crocodile Dundee movie. Meaning to travel around for the sake of traveling around.

Got ya!


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Old 02-10-2015, 10:29 PM   #25
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Richard, maybe I misunderstood the guy. Are you saying that the keypad does not store the code? I did go through the programming procedure, pushing the button under the dash.
I guess it's possible that the code is stored in the keypad versus the black box behind the center dash.

The push button may only be an input to the keypad to put it into programming mode.

My confusion may have been because I thought the push button was attached to the black box versus the keypad but with so many wires traveling all over the coach who knows.

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Old 02-11-2015, 10:33 AM   #26
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Richard, I checked the wiring diagram and it does show the yellow wire from the keypad to be the program switch input! I don't know why they would have put it under the dash on our coaches instead of right inside the wall. Maybe it was just to be consistent on all coaches including some that might not have that access!
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Old 02-11-2015, 08:12 PM   #27
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I replaced my old style keypad with the KE-1700 a year or so ago. All that was necessary was to enlarge the hole a little with my dremel tool. All wires match up and it was a very simple install.
I like it much better than the old one.
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Old 02-12-2015, 06:34 PM   #28
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Joe,
When I first got my coach and decided to reprogram the access codes I looked high and low for the reset button. Everything that I read said that the reset button should have been somewhere in/under the dash but I couldn't find it. I finally just wired in a separate momentary button to the yellow wire and put it in the passenger side console.

A couple years later when I was working on something else in the dash I found a loose wire covered with the protective wrap neatly tucked between the dash panel and side panel going to the floor. I checked it out and the momentary switch was inside the wrap.

I now have 2 buttons.
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