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Old 03-03-2007, 09:19 PM   #1
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I have a '97 Itasca Sunrise on a Ford F53 chasis that I purchased last summer. In the fall we took a long trip and found exhaust odor buildup in the rear bedroom whenever we drive. It got so bad that the CO2 detector went off one rainy day.

I finally figured out how it is comming in. I taped off the two rear basement compartment doors, one above the exhaust and one rearward of the exhaust. Drove 200 miles and no exhaust odor. Then I inspected the seals in these compartment doors and they look fine. Compartment doors seem to shut tightly.

Not sure what to do, but will have to tape them off for my next trip in April or May. Only other thing I thought of is to change the tailpipes to go out the rear, which means cutting off about 30 inches of pipe out to the side and adding about 110 inches of pipe to the rear. This does not seem like the best solution, but probably would work.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks
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Old 03-03-2007, 09:19 PM   #2
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I have a '97 Itasca Sunrise on a Ford F53 chasis that I purchased last summer. In the fall we took a long trip and found exhaust odor buildup in the rear bedroom whenever we drive. It got so bad that the CO2 detector went off one rainy day.

I finally figured out how it is comming in. I taped off the two rear basement compartment doors, one above the exhaust and one rearward of the exhaust. Drove 200 miles and no exhaust odor. Then I inspected the seals in these compartment doors and they look fine. Compartment doors seem to shut tightly.

Not sure what to do, but will have to tape them off for my next trip in April or May. Only other thing I thought of is to change the tailpipes to go out the rear, which means cutting off about 30 inches of pipe out to the side and adding about 110 inches of pipe to the rear. This does not seem like the best solution, but probably would work.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks
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Old 03-04-2007, 02:04 AM   #3
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That is probably the correct thing to do. However, if you are cutting off 30 in and then adding about 110 in you will want to make the additional pipe 'larger' so that you don't restrict the exhaust flow gas. Otherwise you could change the operating characteristic of your engine, not a good thing.
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Old 03-04-2007, 02:24 AM   #4
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TallPaul, Are the compartments vented in the sides or rear? Try extending the tail pipe out a few more inches andsee if that takes care of the problem. I would think that if the pipe were 4 or 5 inches outside the sidewall the exhaust could escape. Let us know what fixes the issue.
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Old 03-04-2007, 05:17 AM   #5
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I had he same concern with lengthening the pipes that much, but I'm not sure it would require larger pipe. It seems that the exhaust cools as it travels farther down the piping and so should be condensing to take up less space as it moves farther back. Therefore it seems the same size pipe should be adequate. Wouldn't too large of a pipe have the potential to reduce exhaust velocity and thus create back pressure?

I tried extending the exhaust tips about 8 inches farther out the side and took a 200 mile trip and it did not help.

The compartments are in the side. There are no compartments in the rear, just the emergency escape window, which does not open otherwise and releases by pulling a tape that goes all the way around the window (vs the latched emergency escape). Also the window is up higher.
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Old 03-04-2007, 10:40 AM   #6
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Have you looked to see how exhaust is getting from the compartments into the interior? Maybe some caulking would solve the problem? And if exhaust can get in that way, so can cold air and "critters", both insects and mice.

I would guess that there is some sort of sucking action pulling exhaust in, since your pipe is already out to the side and an additional extension did not help. Maybe air is flowing through the bay somehow, creating a venturi that sucks the exhaust into the bays from the pipe.
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Old 03-04-2007, 02:18 PM   #7
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Had a 94 Bounder that the area under the bed was not sealed well. Cold air and exhaust was a constant problem until I sealed it.
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Old 03-04-2007, 05:30 PM   #8
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Good idea to check the sealing of the compartment. But with a heated basement, I think maybe there will always be a connection between basement and coach. If I seal any gaps won't I still get the exhaust via the furnace ducting? Another possibilty is to create a positive pressure in the coach, but moving the exhaust pipes seems the simplest solution, though not that simple as it is dual pipes behind the muffler. Maybe time for a flowmaster RV muffler with a single rear outlet.
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Old 03-04-2007, 06:05 PM   #9
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You mentioned the heater ducts go through the two compartments in question, if so, almost certainly you have a negative pressure situation. Possibly the negative pressure is pulling in exhaust past your slide seals. I you seal around the compartments and heater ducts you still should have compartment warming. BTW, rather than leave the heater on all night, if your compartments have lights, just turn them on, worked for us in 11ยบ weather.

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Old 03-04-2007, 07:44 PM   #10
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No lights in the compartments. In my case the furnace heats both the compartments and the coach. I suppose it would be better to have a separate furnace for heating the basement with it's own ducting, and I suppose some of the high end models have that. Now if I wasn't using the furnace, I could put covers on all the heater vents. I don't really need the furnace on the road as I have a rear heater that operates off the engine cooling system.
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Old 03-05-2007, 03:49 AM   #11
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I'm rather surprised that you have heat in those compartments. Usually on that chassis/model you just get a small duct down to the water pump area and maybe one to the large center bays. The individual compartments towards the back usually do not have separate heat ducts.

I'm convinced you have some flaw besides the exhaust location. Exhaust in the interior is not a common problem with Winnie/Itasca, so it is not a design defect. Moving the exhaust pipes may indeed eliminate the problem, but something else is the cause of it.
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Old 03-05-2007, 07:41 AM   #12
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On my unit, the fresh water tank is all the way to the back. One of those compartments is for the water pump and drain valves. Actually both back compartment doors access a common space. But between each compartment section there are openings for air to pass through. I probably could have the dealer look at it. Don't know if it would cost me more to extend the pipes or have the dealer try to fix it, but for sure the price of extending the pipes would be a known, the other a wild card.
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Old 03-09-2007, 07:50 AM   #13
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i had the same problem but with jenny exhaust. i turned on bay lights at night and had light at seals and seams. calked seams and adjusted doors in. if no lights in bays, use a drop light with flat cord and close door. it works. dave
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