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Old 10-11-2007, 07:30 AM   #1
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Hi. I just recieved my Floject portable waste pump and want to install it, but am a little unsure of where to pull the power from.

It recommends a 12V 20 amp fuse on a 12 AWG wire. I thought I would grab some power from the water pump wiring if not the storage lights, but neither of them are 20 amp fuses. Is it okay to replace the 15 amp water pump fuse with a 20 amp fuse and run a wire from there? It is possible that the water pump and the Flojet could be running at the same time. Would that overload the circuit and cause a problem if they are both sharing it?

Alternatively, would it be better to run a separate line from an open slot in the fuse panel for the Flojet?
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Old 10-11-2007, 07:30 AM   #2
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Hi. I just recieved my Floject portable waste pump and want to install it, but am a little unsure of where to pull the power from.

It recommends a 12V 20 amp fuse on a 12 AWG wire. I thought I would grab some power from the water pump wiring if not the storage lights, but neither of them are 20 amp fuses. Is it okay to replace the 15 amp water pump fuse with a 20 amp fuse and run a wire from there? It is possible that the water pump and the Flojet could be running at the same time. Would that overload the circuit and cause a problem if they are both sharing it?

Alternatively, would it be better to run a separate line from an open slot in the fuse panel for the Flojet?
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Old 10-11-2007, 09:04 AM   #3
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Changing the fuse to a 20A doesn't change the capacity of the wiring - you run the risk of melting insulation or even burning out a wire with the Flojet. It can pull a lot of current under load (I've seen them pop 20A fuses regularly when pumping long distances or through narrow hoses) and often runs for fairly long periods too. I'd recommend a new circuit for the Flojet macerator pump and definitely at least 12 gauge wire (more if the distance is long). You could run it direct from the battery with its own fuse if that is more convenient than tapping the existing fuse panel.
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Old 10-11-2007, 11:48 AM   #4
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I keep mine portable and have used it numerous times although not regularly. Made my own extension line out of 10 GA marine grade wire and 20 amp fuse. Alligator clips allow me to get power from chassi, house or toad battery. Never got around to puting a 20 amp take off in the sewer compartment. Be sure receptical is rated at 20 amps,many autostore/Radio Shack aftermarkets are not. When I get around to it I will go for a direct run (fused)to the battery. Good Luck
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Old 10-11-2007, 11:51 AM   #5
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GW, Gary is right on all accounts. Fuses are rated for wiring protection, not for the load. Many people buy the portable macerators because they believe they don't involve installation work. This is probably true only for the plumbing portion. Not many RV's have an electrical circuit nearby that can be hi-jacked to run the sizeable electrical load of the pump. Many times it requires running new wiring. Since I'm not much of a plumber, but a darn good electrician, I'd rather run wiring than plumbing.
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Old 10-11-2007, 12:36 PM   #6
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Great insight Gary, Rocky and Darryl.

Thanks very much. I knew I was getting in a little deeper after checking out the power requirements. I like the alligator clip idea and will run with that this weekend.

Thanks for the quick responses.
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Old 10-12-2007, 12:31 AM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GLWilliams58:
Great insight Gary, Rocky and Darryl.

Thanks very much. I knew I was getting in a little deeper after checking out the power requirements. I like the alligator clip idea and will run with that this weekend.

Thanks for the quick responses. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

If your generator is near the waste compartment the 12 volt starter cable may be more substantial than 12 gauge and a convienient source of power for use with jumpers or a more permanent hookup.
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