Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > MH-General Discussions & Problems
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-29-2010, 05:18 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
westek's Avatar
 
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Livingston TX
Posts: 15
Floor Rot Under Slide

Hi,
I was not able to hijack the older floor rot under the toilet repair thread so I started this new thread and reference it in my post here...

I have similar situation as what you all have had to repair and deal with, except mine is worse, ahem. I am actually sick about this but I decided to dive in and play it by ear. But to finish I need to detailed information as to the construction of my unit. So here Goes.

First I have a 98 Holiday Rambler Endeavor.

Problem is extensive floor rot under the kitchen section of the slide and possibly extending into the toilet area... It's bad.

What makes it worse is that I am a fulltimer, so I'm doing this as I live in it. Even worse situation.

I've pulled up a lot of the tile over the rotted area and am cleaning it all up.

Observations:

The top piece of plywood under the tile is 5/8 thick

The plywood under that Im not sure about, but there is a foam board under that, that I have not penetrated.

****My question is, what is under the foam, if anything?****

****And second is about the metal frame that I see above in pictures on this thread. Is it consistent and evenly placed?****

****Thirdly are standard sizes of plywood (4x8) placed on top of it and where the plywood meets plywood is that on top of the metal frame. Like how plywood flooring lays on top of and butts together at the floor joists.****

****And last how far is center to center on those metal floor joist frames?****

Does any of that make any sense? Any info would be much appreciated.

William
__________________

__________________
westek is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 11-30-2010, 03:27 AM   #2
Community Moderator
 
RV Wizard's Avatar


 
Country Coach Owners Club
Appalachian Campers
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 12,062
William, sorry to hear of the rotted floor. There is NOTHING worse; including a rotted roof. The biggest problem is that the floor is the first system installed at the factory and everything else is built on top, protrudes through and many are seamless (wall to wall and front to rear). Since the sub floor can be seamless, there is not a need for a standard (16, 24 or 48" on center rule) spacing of floor joists. To repair correctly the coach will become unusable during much of the repairs. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the slide outs have to be pulled, all plumbing, electrical and interior walls over the floor have to be removed and then the flooring can be removed, framing cleaned and painted and new flooring installed. This is a very labor intensive project and costly enough if you were doing the work yourself. Usually prohibitive, if having to pay for repairs. If you can take a tour of a manufacturer or go to a repair facility that does these kinds of repairs, you will b e able to better understand how to go about it, if you decide to do so.
__________________

__________________
Mike, RVIA & RVSA Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, Dr. Assistant - Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 450 hp & 1330# torque
06 Saturn Vue, 06 Chevy Z71 4x4 & 2014 Corvette Z51 M7
RV Wizard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2010, 04:46 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Jackm's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 627
William,

Mike may be correct but sometimes you just have to do the best you can with what you have. First of all, if you cannot find somewhere to live during the repairs, you'll have to find a way to use your vanity sink until the problem is fixed. Second, your first task is to ascertain the extent of the damage in order to see what you're facing. Assuming that you no longer have a water infiltration problem, the job will most likely entail replacing the floor (the top sheet of plywood). I wouldn't worry about what's below the Styrofoam. Removing the damaged flooring will require you to remove some cabinetry, some trim work, and other things that could interfere with the job. However, all of this will become abundantly clear as you get into the job. Pay close attention to where they originally attached the flooring because this will tell you where the underlying nailers are.

We look at it this way. For every task, there's the ideal way to get it done. Mike's suggestion falls into this category. However, we're full-timers that don't have an abundant amount of resources. As a result, we frequently have to make real-life compromises. In your case, you need to remove any rotted wood because it will only get worse over time (A circular saw adjusted so that it only cuts into the top layer could be handy). After that, it's primarily a matter of making sure that the repaired floor is solid enough to get on with your travels and your life. It's messy but its not rocket science. Lastly, stay at a campground in a warm place that is laid-back about working on your RV, Also, buy some protective knee pads. If you have a chance, let us know how it goes. In the meantime, best of luck.

Jack
__________________
2004 Winnebago Brave 34D with the usual add-ons
Jackm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2010, 10:54 AM   #4
Junior Member
 
westek's Avatar
 
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Livingston TX
Posts: 15
@Mike aka RV Wizard
Holy moses, is it really one big sheet of plywood??? Thats disheartening... And you are right, if I could get the slide out, I think the job would actually be easy in my opinion. I even thought if I can find a small warehouse in some little town that had a concrete floor in it to rent at a comparable price to what I pay at campgrounds, I could pull up in there and build a 4x4 frame under the slide and ease it out and do repairs.

@Jack
I have been sick, sick, sick over this, but finally just decided it wasn't going to go away and I don't have money to throw at the problem to make it go away. And even if I did have money to throw at it, probably would donate the unit and buy another, right. So I am with you. Right now I just want to cut the flooring back till I have good wood and metal support. Then get some flooring under the one roller so I can safely move my slide in and out. I have already started pulling up the tile and cutting back the wood. (I'm taking pictures) To do the cutting, I have one of those oscillating multi-tools. Never really put much stock into the idea, but I will tell you out of desperation I went and got one. With the flush cut wood blade I can cut the top layer back without damaging the lower plywood. (not a commercial for the unit, I swear) So again the plan is to cut the bottom wood back to a good spot, and over the center of one of those metal frame/joists. Then cut the top wood back. I'm not sure how far to cut back the top to leave a "lip."

The leak was only found after I tore out some of the bottom cabinet of the slide. It is in the hollow wall next to the slide and houses all of the "flexible stuff." The big flexible drain pipe is cracked. How a normal owner would be able to check that without disassembling his/her unit I'm not sure. And the only way to know that you have a problem is when it is too late...

Anyway, I am sick, did I say that already??? Here are some pictures. I've annotated them so click on them to see the detail...

This is the overview of the area so far





This is the detail of where I have cut the top layer back. Notice how clean I was able to cut it back.





And this is the culprit. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement piece for this???






So, here is where I am. Any comment, encouraging words, etc...

William
__________________
westek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2010, 05:15 PM   #5
Junior Member
 
westek's Avatar
 
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Livingston TX
Posts: 15
Unhappy More Pictures

Ok, here are some tips for safety. When prying tile, no matter how slowly and carefully you do it, it cracks and pieces fly everywhere. I know some people use a hammer to bust it all up and then clean up, but, I don't have the luxury. I still have to live in here and I have a pet too. So, I slowly pry with a magazine or cardboard over the tile to stop the glass flying. Then when I'm done or have a good bit of broken tile, I clean it and vacuum up the pieces before it gets out of hand. Keep the area clean of shards because if you don't and your hand slips, you may cut your self on it. I did, that stuff is sharp and will take off your knuckle.


Prying up tile...




Progress...




Comments or encouraging words?

William & Boo
__________________
William & Little Boo (17 lb Maine Coon)
98 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 37WDS 5.9L Turbo/Aftercooled Cummins Diesel
Toad: 2000 Mitsubishi Diamante
westek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2010, 04:17 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Jackm's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 627
Little Boo weighs 17 pounds? What in god's name would Big Boo look like?

P.S. As for replacing the flexible fitting, I can't see enough to give a meaningful answer. However, one of the big box stores like The Home Depot or Lowe's might have something you can use. Needless to say, find a better solution than the original design. Keep up the good work and keep in touch. We're all cringing with you.

Jack
__________________
2004 Winnebago Brave 34D with the usual add-ons
Jackm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2010, 06:18 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
H. Miller's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,523
BTW, that is OSB (oriented strand board) and not plywood. Assume you'll go back in with "real" plywood - the "green" stuff? Had HR used that to begin with there would still be damage but you wouldn't know about it for several more years.
Guess what.... the good stuff is more expensive - who'd of thunk it
__________________
Hal & Ginny Miller '04 Beaver Santiam PRT40
'04 Saturn Vue - US Gear Brake - Blue Ox tow
4"girls" (3 Irish Setters - 1 Retriever) - RIP Annie
H. Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2010, 07:23 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Bob (WA0MQE)'s Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Between Colorado Springs, CO & Fulton, TX
Posts: 1,515
Blog Entries: 1
Mike, something else to think about as far as supporting the slide when removing it. Once you've found a location that might fit the bill for doing the work, check around and see if you can either rent a fork lift or just hire someone who has one. I helped a guy one time remove a slide and that's what we did. Cut a piece of plywood to fit on the forks and distribute the weight of the slide so the forks themselves aren't touching the bottom of the slide alone. This way you can lift the slide slightly as well as move it in and out as necessary. Some fork lifts not only lift and lower vertically by hydraulics but also can go in and out via hydraulics. This makes for very precise movement. You can then set the slide on some 4X4's on the floor for however long it takes to repair the damage then hire the guy again to put it back in once completed.
__________________
Bob 2006 Monaco Camelot 40PDQ
US Navy Carrier Battlegroup 1959/1963
Summer in Colorado, Winter Texas Gulf Coast
Bob (WA0MQE) is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2010, 11:01 AM   #9
Junior Member
 
westek's Avatar
 
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Livingston TX
Posts: 15
Smile Thank You

Hello and Thank You,


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackm View Post
Little Boo weighs 17 pounds? What in god's name would Big Boo look like?

P.S. As for replacing the flexible fitting, I can't see enough to give a meaningful answer. However, one of the big box stores like The Home Depot or Lowe's might have something you can use. Needless to say, find a better solution than the original design. Keep up the good work and keep in touch. We're all cringing with you.

Jack
@Jack
Thanks for that, the first smile and laugh on my face in several days. I let things get to me and it sure helps to be distracted with humor. Today is sunny and Little Boo alerted me to a minor leak while it rained last night around the drivers seat area, so I'll be trying to find that somehow... On another note, Santa, if your out there, I want a new coach, lol.



Quote:
Originally Posted by H. Miller View Post
BTW, that is OSB (oriented strand board) and not plywood. Assume you'll go back in with "real" plywood - the "green" stuff? Had HR used that to begin with there would still be damage but you wouldn't know about it for several more years.
Guess what.... the good stuff is more expensive - who'd of thunk it
@Miller
To be honest I was thinking about using marine grade plywood. Do you think that is overkill?




Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob (WA0MQE) View Post
Mike, something else to think about as far as supporting the slide when removing it. Once you've found a location that might fit the bill for doing the work, check around and see if you can either rent a fork lift or just hire someone who has one. I helped a guy one time remove a slide and that's what we did. Cut a piece of plywood to fit on the forks and distribute the weight of the slide so the forks themselves aren't touching the bottom of the slide alone. This way you can lift the slide slightly as well as move it in and out as necessary. Some fork lifts not only lift and lower vertically by hydraulics but also can go in and out via hydraulics. This makes for very precise movement. You can then set the slide on some 4X4's on the floor for however long it takes to repair the damage then hire the guy again to put it back in once completed.
@Bob
Good idea, thanks. I know that some fork lifts even do the side to side jog thing too. Could be helpful.



Again, Thank You All for the ideas and your time to post. I really am grateful and it helps to know that I'm not utterly alone in this endeavor (pun, get it?) Today I will be looking for that driver area leak. It is damp in the front left corner floor area. It's hard not to get discouraged when everything happens at once. So, pressing on with elephant snot in hand(RTV,Silicon Sealant), I go to conquer my fear of heights and climb on this monster...

Cheers,
William & Boo
__________________
William & Little Boo (17 lb Maine Coon)
98 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 37WDS 5.9L Turbo/Aftercooled Cummins Diesel
Toad: 2000 Mitsubishi Diamante
westek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2010, 01:16 PM   #10
Junior Member
 
westek's Avatar
 
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Livingston TX
Posts: 15
Hi All,
I have a couple of questions.

There are 2 sheets of plywood under the tile flooring. Is this only in the tile section, or throughout the unit including the carpeted sections?

Under the bottom piece of plywood in the tiled section, there is a blue foam board that I HAVE NOT penetrated, nor do I want to if at all possible. So I can't really see any of the metal frame, I can't really feel it either. How far apart are the metal frames spaced? Or is it variable??? Maybe I should use a piece of thin wire to gingerly poke around to find the frame work??? Suggestions???

William & Boo
__________________
William & Little Boo (17 lb Maine Coon)
98 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 37WDS 5.9L Turbo/Aftercooled Cummins Diesel
Toad: 2000 Mitsubishi Diamante
westek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2010, 07:00 PM   #11
Member
 
Bikedaddy's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 58
Hey William

Below you will find a link to a post that I made in early October about replacing the floor in my bath area that rotted out because of a seal on the toilet that was not installed correctly at some point.

I also thought about using marine grade plywood and ended up with PT plywood as I figured it would out last me and the cost difference was significant. The pressboard that was used when the coach was built for the main floor as well as the sub floor is ok as long as it never gets wet for an extended period of time and once it starts to deteriorate I know of nothing that will stop it. If the press board under the sub floor is only had some minor damage you might get away with going to a marine supply store and getting a wood rot product and use that instead of replacing that section also. Be sure that the press board is 100% dry before you use it

On of the things that you need to be aware of is that press board is a full half inch thick and the PT plywood is not, it will be about a 1/16 of and inch less so you will not have a flush surface with the existing floor. If you are going to put tile back down then you might be able to make up the difference with the thin set but it becomes a little bit harder to get a good level surface if you are not a tile guy.

One of the things that I looked at doing to make up the difference in the wood size was to get the heavie roofing tar paper and lay a double layer of that between the main floor and the sub floor to compensate for the difference. two layers of the roofing paper is just about a 1/16 of an inch. If you floor is 5/8 thick then just us more paper.

Other then that be sure to use the thin set and grout that I mention in the post so that your tile will not come up or crack as the motorhome floor flexes when you are moving.

If I can help in any way during your new experience please let me know

Bob


Rebuild of bathroom sub floor
__________________
Bikedaddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2010, 04:59 AM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 47
You may have to add some additonal braces under the plywood if you can not get under walls and cabinets.

Make sure you use exterior grade plywood just in case all leaks have not been solved. It would not hurt to seal new pieces with thompsons or oil base paint.

You may have to improvise using angle brackets and "scab" plates for support.
__________________
trpwire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2010, 05:08 AM   #13
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 47
One more thought.

I have used sheets of steel to span areas I could not access to install braces.
Just make sure both sides are anchored to solid areas.
__________________
trpwire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2010, 09:50 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,060
If the blue foam is solid I think finding the joists is not critical. I would try sliding strips of sheet metal between the foam and bottom plywood.That would make a place to fasten the new and old.Then lap the top layer as you seem to be doing now by staggering the cuts.Pritty good finished is better than perfect never done. Construction adhesive between layers and at overlap will help .
BOB
__________________

__________________
bldrbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Slide Out Problem with Chain. Doc C Newmar Owner's Forum 6 10-25-2010 03:31 AM
National Dolphin Replacement Bedroom Slide problem Joe Gilbert National RV Owner's Forum 1 11-13-2009 10:56 AM
Scepter front slide JFC Monaco Owner's Forum 2 09-25-2008 05:22 PM
Bounder: Slide Leaks Revisited - Fixed? GerryB54 Fleetwood Products Owner's Forum 22 07-04-2008 04:57 AM
Slide Leaks Ptribbey Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 6 02-11-2007 03:38 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:40 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.