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Old 09-15-2008, 03:26 PM   #1
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I'm assuming that I have the same in-tank pump that I guess all of the older Fords did, behind my fuel-injected 7.5L (460 cu.in.) I'm told that sooner or later, and likely sooner, it is going to go south, and probably before I hit 50K.<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>Sound correct?
<LI>The tank has to be pulled and drained to R&R?
<LI>Is there an alternative, or workaround?
<LI>Would it help to install an electric pump in the line outside of the tank?[/list]Anyone who has been there/done that, or just knows the answer and could pass it on would sure garner all of my appreciation.
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Old 09-15-2008, 07:33 PM   #2
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Hi Ken, I went thru the same thing in MAY. We have a'96 Winnie Adventurer 34rq on an f53 Ford chassie,34k miles. I was reading on other posts
the fuel pumps were starting to fail around 30k
miles. I asked my mechanic the same questions, about an external pump, the R/V was hard starting and he checked the fuel pressure and it was low,they had to drain the tank, and replaced the pump,total price was under $500.
Goor luck, Rick & Robin
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Old 09-16-2008, 01:48 AM   #3
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I had my fuel pump replaced in January after many wrong diagnosis. A small shop in Flager Beach, FL replaced the pump without draining the tank.
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Old 09-16-2008, 04:05 AM   #4
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I'll assume that my '89 Econoline Van is the same as your situation. I was working on the fuel pump in my front tank over the weekend (I have two tanks on the my van). My situation is:
1. The pump is mounted to the top of tank with a ring. I had to drop the tank and that is easier to do (since I have no lift) with less fuel than with more but I did not have to drain the tank.
2. I've paid to replace the pump on my front tank twice since I've owned this van. This time, I decided to do the work myself. The rear tank has the original pump on it. Go figure. I've used the rear tank about as much as the front one.

The question for me about any external fuel pump would be how to mount the hose that feeds it to keep end of that hose in contact with low fuel in the tank. The on-tank mechanism for the existing pump handles that. BTW, the fuel gauge mechanism is mounted on the same
structure as the fuel pump. That makes it hard to get the pump out of the tank.
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Old 09-16-2008, 07:18 AM   #5
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I ran mine low on fuel, placed a floor jack under it, lowered it, replaced the pump. The pump was purchased at a local parts house. Not a difficult job. Better to replace it than work around. The pick up tube could be clogged etc.
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Old 09-17-2008, 03:12 AM   #6
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I don't know if I want to get into this or not but here I go. Our 96 has 42000 plus and has the original pump. Has anyone heard the recommendation to not let the tank get below a tank of fuel? Reason being that the fuel cools the pump?



http://www.aa1car.com/library/fuel_pump.htm

Electric fuel pumps are usually mounted inside the fuel tank, though some may be mounted outside the tank. Some vehicles may even have two fuel pumps (a transfer pump inside the tank, and a main fuel pump outside). The in-tank location helps muffle the buzzing noise produced by the electric pump motor, and immersing the pump in fuel helps lubricate and cool the pump motor. Driving with the fuel tank less than 1/4 full can shorten pump life by causing it to run hot. It also increases the risk of momentarily starving the pump for fuel when cornering sharply, braking or accelerating. Running out of gas can sometimes damage an electric fuel pump by starving it for cooling and lubrication.
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Old 09-28-2008, 09:45 AM   #7
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The only sure thing about a failed intank fuel pump is that will happen just after you fill the fuel tank.

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Old 09-29-2008, 06:17 PM   #8
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I had mine from a 91 ford powered southwind replaced in march the mechanic said to use 1 qt.of ATF every 5 tanks of fuel .??
any coments
Bob
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joneldbrat View Post


I don't know if I want to get into this or not but here I go. Our 96 has 42000 plus and has the original pump. Has anyone heard the recommendation to not let the tank get below a tank of fuel? Reason being that the fuel cools the pump?



Fuel Pump

Electric fuel pumps are usually mounted inside the fuel tank, though some may be mounted outside the tank. Some vehicles may even have two fuel pumps (a transfer pump inside the tank, and a main fuel pump outside). The in-tank location helps muffle the buzzing noise produced by the electric pump motor, and immersing the pump in fuel helps lubricate and cool the pump motor. Driving with the fuel tank less than 1/4 full can shorten pump life by causing it to run hot. It also increases the risk of momentarily starving the pump for fuel when cornering sharply, braking or accelerating. Running out of gas can sometimes damage an electric fuel pump by starving it for cooling and lubrication.
THE BIG QUESTION for those who never had a bad fuel pump.
What were the symptoms that the defective pump produced?
I have weak starting where the unit starts at 200 rpm and gradually gains to around 800rpm, then drives poorly ( feels like flooding or no fuel) for 5 to 7 miles. after that it runs normal.
I have replaced the plugs, coils, frame mounted fuel filter and pressure regulator. Ford V-10 gas.
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:06 PM   #10
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Hello shufflerg-l

What year Ford chassis do you have?
Does the check engine light come on?
Are there any codes stored in memory?
Sorry for all the questions, but will help to diagnose.
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:26 PM   #11
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john
1999 32' brave
no, engine light has not come on.
I don't know about the codes stored in memory.
Rick's RV in Wabash, In. changed the "pressure regulator" but did not give me any # 's.
The frame filter change was done in Port Charlotte, Fl. as was the plugs, boots, coils.
so you can see that I have been chasing this problem for a while.
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob N Deb View Post
I had mine from a 91 ford powered southwind replaced in march the mechanic said to use 1 qt.of ATF every 5 tanks of fuel .??
any coments
Bob
Bob - Adding ATF to the fuel is an OLD "fix" for diesels when they reformulated the fuel back in the early 90's. It was to add some lubrication to the system, but lubrication is NOT the problem with the 460 Ford gas fuel pumps from the 90's. The problem was a poor design. Ford redesigned the pump in the late 90's and pretty much eliminated weak pumps failure (but never entirely!). Besides, 1 QT of ATF to 75 to 100 gallons of fuel is not going to do anything (good or bad).

Quote:
Originally Posted by shufflerg-l View Post
THE BIG QUESTION for those who never had a bad fuel pump.
What were the symptoms that the defective pump produced?
I have weak starting where the unit starts at 200 rpm and gradually gains to around 800rpm, then drives poorly ( feels like flooding or no fuel) for 5 to 7 miles. after that it runs normal.
I have replaced the plugs, coils, frame mounted fuel filter and pressure regulator. Ford V-10 gas.
sufflerg-1
shufflerg-1, The V10 Fords used the newer design fuel pump so a failing pump is not nearly as common as for the 460's. As for your symptoms, the pumps usually start acting up when they get hot, not when cold so while it COULD be a weak pump, I would look at other problems. When I bought my 460 powered MH, it would load up when cold then finally smooth out. I replaced the Manifold Air Temperature Sensor (located in the intake manifold) and all is good now. Maybe try replacing that first. Good Luck!
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Old 06-22-2011, 09:51 PM   #13
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There is a possibility there may be a soft code stored in memory. If you don't have a code reader many auto parts stores will check for codes for n/c. I think the OBD II connector is in the lower steering column on that model.
It sounds like you are having a cold engine drivability concern. If there are no codes stored then I would be checking sensors that control fuel enrichment when cold, like the idle air speed motor, coolant temp sensors and air temp sensors.
You might want to try posting a new thread on the Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum
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Old 06-22-2011, 09:52 PM   #14
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What happens is that the fuel pump gets too hot, and it volatilizes the gasoline in that immediate vicinity. let the gem cool off for half hour or so (depending on the ambient temperature) and the pump will begin to deliver fuel, again. If you want to avoid the expense (mine cost $800 or so) you need to disconnect the power to the pump, so it does not get hot ever again,then install an electric pump externally. I have been told that this works, but have not done it myself. You also may need to locate the external pump at a lower level than the original pump, to be sure it stays full of gasoline.
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