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Old 07-14-2008, 08:56 AM   #1
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Living in the high desert of California it gets up to 115 at its hottest. and the fridge I have is only 4 yrs old in a 86 Bounder. The fridge stays at factory settings when the outside temp is below 90 degrees or so but the fridge can't keep up when the outside temp is hot. The freezer factory setting is 0 degrees and is Ok at about 20 degrees on a hot day but the fridge is factory set at 40 degrees and goes up to 55-60 degrees on a hot day. Is there anything that I can do to drop the temp?
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Old 07-14-2008, 08:56 AM   #2
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Living in the high desert of California it gets up to 115 at its hottest. and the fridge I have is only 4 yrs old in a 86 Bounder. The fridge stays at factory settings when the outside temp is below 90 degrees or so but the fridge can't keep up when the outside temp is hot. The freezer factory setting is 0 degrees and is Ok at about 20 degrees on a hot day but the fridge is factory set at 40 degrees and goes up to 55-60 degrees on a hot day. Is there anything that I can do to drop the temp?
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Old 07-14-2008, 09:03 AM   #3
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chuck7, if there's room behind the fridge when you open the access panel, you might try putting a small fan in a position so it can blow air upwards to help cool the coils, don't know if that will work or not, but worth a try. Also get one of those little battery powered circulating fans to set inside the refrigerator.

good luck
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Old 07-14-2008, 06:39 PM   #4
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chuck7,make sure the flue is cleaned out also.

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Old 07-14-2008, 07:29 PM   #5
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chuck here is a LINK to some mods that were done to get the heat out from behind the refrige coils and out thru your top vent. Make sure the top vent is clean and no webs or wasp nests are blocking the vent you need a good air flow to remove the heat.
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Old 07-15-2008, 09:09 AM   #6
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Chuck7 -- I've been dealing with my Norcold which quit cooling a couple times, and finally found that if I heat-taped the "sloppy" openings where ignitor, wires, etc going into the burner stack, it's working just fine. It's a very quick and easy DIY and might solve your problem. Used that aluminized heat tape.
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Old 07-15-2008, 09:15 AM   #7
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007 - I've been following all the fridge posts, and am looking at your pics of the 12 v. fan installed at bottom of your fridge compartment. Looks great. I'm wondering how you ran the power wire. From battery post or did you cut into supply line inside compartment? Use a fuse? Even though my top fans cycle in hot weather, I'm just trying to figure out how to ventilate more. Thanks
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:27 PM   #8
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Jim, GaryKD is the one that added the fan in his lower vent for his Dometic refrige they do not have them. The same can be done for your Norcold ,any type, for added air flow thru coil chamber. I believe he got fan at Radio Shack plus the temp thermister you can see mounted to it. The 12v is on a block for your refrige on bottom of vent opening. May need fuse and a switch as to not run down batteries when not needed.
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Old 07-15-2008, 05:28 PM   #9
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I believe you will get better help if you will give the Make and Model number of your frig.
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Old 07-15-2008, 05:32 PM   #10
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007 is correct. I got 12V from a 12V incoming line (incoming to the fridge) and ground to the fridge frame. There are two fans in the lower part of the compartment. The one to the right is difficult to see.

The bottom line is that when the weather gets hot the fans help the fridge quite a bit. The change was so big that I believe, when it is hot out and within reason, one can not have too many fans to get the heat away from the coil.
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Old 07-16-2008, 11:36 AM   #11
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Thanks 007 and GaryKD! So I can splice into the incoming, no problem, and ground to the frame, but did you use a thermal switch for use only during hot weather? And a fuse, say 5 amp? Hope I'm not bugging you guys, but I really want to hear your experiences before DIY fix. I'm also considering a small PV panel w/ muffin fan to limit use (and battery pull) to only hot sunny weather.
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Old 07-16-2008, 04:19 PM   #12
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My incoming fan 12V line does have a fuse. I do not use the thermo couple that came with the fans. I installed a switch inside the coach to turn the fans on and off as I see fit. This is because I believe the best way to help the fridge cool is to get as much air moving over the coils as possible. I will sometimes leave the fans running for several days. It makes quite a difference in the refer side temp. The freezer side seems to care not.
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Old 07-18-2008, 07:10 PM   #13
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In my case I found the fiberglass chimney flue insulation that is slit for installation was wide open(read: never finished at the factory) generating a TON of heat in the exchanger cavity. I used aluminum tape and sealed it up top to bottom.
I also added 2 exhaust fans to the top flue. That requires removing the molded screen, but the install is no big deal at all. I used to have them running off the old solar panel but have since put them on the house supply.

Hint: If you're crazy enough to pull the unit, bring at least 2 power-lifters along.
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Old 07-20-2008, 03:01 PM   #14
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Okay Jeff, I like the two fans. I'm assuming from the pic that yours must be a Dometic? Did you use a fuse? Inside switch like Gary? And where did you find the fans? Thanks
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