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Old 01-10-2016, 06:39 PM   #15
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Biobor is what you need if you decide not to polish the fuel.
Diesel Fuel Additives - Fuel Additives

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Old 01-10-2016, 07:03 PM   #16
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I'm familiar with the sludge in the tank.

I have the dual Racor on my boat and during the first year, after it sat for years, I switched over and changed the filter 15 to 20 times.

From Rhode Island to Lake Erie and then down the east coast to Florida before I could get 500 hours on a filter.

There wasn't any magic elexer that was going to fix that.

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Old 01-11-2016, 12:31 AM   #17
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Algae and bacteria grow in diesel fuel only when water is present.. You should always store your motorhome with a full tank of diesel fuel. what happens when a diesel tank is not full. You will get condensation from the tank heating and cooling during the day.( just like a cold glass of water in a room. moisture condensates on the outside of the glass. well your diesel tank does the same only on the inside.) you need to remove the moisture in your tank. drain off a few gallons of diesel from the bottom of your tank. Water sits at the lowest part of your tank. Water is heavier than diesel so you will drain the water off first then the diesel. There is a product from Terraclean. Called TerraDiesel Fuel Treatment.
it will remove the the rest of the moisture in the fuel tank.
it converts water H2O into a Hydrocarbon and gets burned up in the engine.
I do not work for or have any financial ties to this company. I am a retired heavy duty mechanic for a large city in Canada. We had problems with algae in our fuel tanks.
this company came in and cured our problem.i now use it in my diesel m/h.
once the water is out of the fuel tank your algae problem will go away.
you can also put methol hydrate ( 1 liter)in you fuel tank to help remove the water.
remember to keep your fuel tank full.
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:46 AM   #18
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Look at it this way, you are going to spend probably $200 on fuel filters ( mine are about $25 each for primary and secondary) if you go through 4 changes while you filter the fuel after adding biocide. When you have to change the filters, it will likely be at a very inopportune time and be a real hassle. You will still have gunk in the tank after that. Polishing , while a bit more expensive, will avoid the unknowns of when and where you will clog a filter and have to change it , likely on the side of the road.
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:11 AM   #19
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I'm from Montgomery Texas but working here in Florida.. Yes this is typical in warmer humid climates...
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:11 AM   #20
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When polishing fuel make sure that they use a treatment to kill the microbial growth inside the tank other wise the sides and bottom of the fuel tank will still have those little bugs that can multiply.

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Old 01-11-2016, 09:56 AM   #21
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I too have had the fuel polished in a diesel boat I had - makes a world of difference!
I no longer had to worry about when a filter was going to plug and shut down an engine - and as pointed out, THAT always happens at an inopportune time.
Check with the company that you're talking to to make sure that they use a high pressure return line to your tank. That way it stirs up the sludge on the bottom which helps get the fuel extra clean. I would assume that they all work that way, but it's worth asking.
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Old 01-11-2016, 05:57 PM   #22
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Think polishing is the best route. Doesn't seem to be much knowledge in the RV community about polishing but as a former sailor, know all too well of the consequences of not fixing the problem properly. Good luck,
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:25 PM   #23
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Given today's price of diesel fuel ($1.45/G at Murphys) I would simply drain the tank, add a biocide and 2, 5G cans of new diesel fuel, then fill with new, clean fuel. If your fuel tank holds 150G, new fuel fill-up costs $217.50. Then add cost of new fuel filters.

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