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Old 12-01-2010, 04:18 PM   #1
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Full timers and heat in winter

Now I know how wonderful that standard motorhome wall treatment really turns us on but here's a way SOME of you might save your valuable heat.

You're looking at that wall treatment and want to cover it over.

This is what you do.

Before ever putting up one sheet of paneling, line the walls with a FOIL barrier. You can do a search for the material on the internet. Not ALUMINUM FOIL, it has to many impurities and won't have maximum effectiveness.

What the heck, here's where you can buy:
Radiant barrier reflective insulation - radiant barrier qualifies for 30% tax credit

So you have the foil stuck on the wall, next you add 1/4 " to 3/8" furring to the walls vertically over the foil.

Install your paneling with the furring strips you installed maintaining that air gap. The thickness of the gap is not important. Just as long as there is an air space behind your panelling.

You can cut you heat loss by 50% or more through the wall.

The FOIL BARRIER reflects back the radiant heat trying to excape through the wall.

It's better than buying an electric heater and your motorhome will look great commensurate with your skill level. I'm not giving lessons on trimming it out etc.
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Old 12-01-2010, 06:42 PM   #2
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I would put up the furring strips and then install the Reflectix (brand name of the one available at Lowes/Home Depot). You can buy it in strips that will fit between studs, has little "flanges" for stapling to the furring strips/studs. I am a firm believer in using Reflectix heat barrier with polyiso foamboard insulation.
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Old 12-01-2010, 07:24 PM   #3
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Air gap

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Originally Posted by Lorna View Post
I would put up the furring strips and then install the Reflectix (brand name of the one available at Lowes/Home Depot). You can buy it in strips that will fit between studs, has little "flanges" for stapling to the furring strips/studs. I am a firm believer in using Reflectix heat barrier with polyiso foamboard insulation.
If you do not have the air gap you will lose ALL reflection of the radiant heat back into the living space. Small gap is fine no gap is no good. You do NOT need any foam.

Have you ever looked at drywall with aluminum foil backing? It's totally useless to reflect heat back into a living space. As soon as the aluminum comes in contact with the solid material, conduction takes place.
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Old 12-04-2010, 11:59 AM   #4
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Since we're wanting to beef up our insulation, and are trying to learn all we can before we do, I have a question.

I've seen some photos posted on the various threads/forums where people are installing the Reflectix inside their bays. Most say they used spray adhesive to attach it to the joint wall/floor with the MH.

If the barrier is attached against the wall or floor - without furring strips to hold it away - are they gaining any insulation value? If so, is it because the Reflextic is reflecting the heat or cold back toward the bay?

Hope that makes sense, but I'm really trying to get a handle on how all this works and what we'll need to do. Since I live in Florida - the extreme NW panhandle - we'll have to deal with "overheating" issues at least as much as we'll have to deal with cold intrusion.

Thanks,
Fran
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Old 12-04-2010, 04:02 PM   #5
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You can read about it on the Relectix web site. There is a FAQ that deals with spacers and why they are used. The short answer is that without some air space, the R value is only about 1.1.

Reflectix Inc. | All About Reflectix® | Frequently Asked Questions...
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Old 12-04-2010, 05:59 PM   #6
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You can call and they give you advice

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Originally Posted by Floridafran View Post
Since we're wanting to beef up our insulation, and are trying to learn all we can before we do, I have a question.

I've seen some photos posted on the various threads/forums where people are installing the Reflectix inside their bays. Most say they used spray adhesive to attach it to the joint wall/floor with the MH.

If the barrier is attached against the wall or floor - without furring strips to hold it away - are they gaining any insulation value? If so, is it because the Reflextic is reflecting the heat or cold back toward the bay?

Hope that makes sense, but I'm really trying to get a handle on how all this works and what we'll need to do. Since I live in Florida - the extreme NW panhandle - we'll have to deal with "overheating" issues at least as much as we'll have to deal with cold intrusion.

Thanks,
Fran
The site will explain what portion of the heat is radiant heat. Look around there. This material will prevent the radiant heat from penetrating the existing wall to the exterior.

Go to the link I gave above.

Ask for Gary. He will give you advice over the phone and convince you to have the gap between the new wall material and the foil. You will get a good price from them for the material. Remember, you do not need ANY more insulation to get the results I'm recommending.

Good luck and have a good time keeping warm.

I might add this. Most windows will have radius corner which can give a novice fits to make look good. Use flexible trim after cutting the radius in your new wall material.

You can get flexible trim which you can stain or paint after installation:

Trimster - Flexible Mouldings

If you use a backband or corner trim you will have an easier time making your bends to match the radius of the window and you will get nice results. Straight trim you buy locally or the more expensive way is to get their trim which comes as a coil and install it straight.
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:34 PM   #7
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If you do not have the air gap you will lose ALL reflection of the radiant heat back into the living space. Small gap is fine no gap is no good. You do NOT need any foam...
And your point is??? Your description does not allow any air gap. My method does. The you can apply a sheet of poly iso over the furring strips and attached to the furring strips. Cover the insulation with paneling. Even with a heat barrier, 1.5 to 2" insulation isn't a great deal in an RV. Yes I am aware of the foled lined sheetrock. We never used in. Been in construction since 1979. I think I may know just a little bit about construction methods and materials. I've been using Reflectix for personal use since 1997 when I started using it on our Apache. First I lined the walls then I pulled the road cover/roof off and placed a layer there as well.
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:09 PM   #8
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Are yes can remember sleeping in those bed extensions and having a shower with droplets of water falling on my face as the sun came up.
Did the insulation take care of droplets?
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:57 AM   #9
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"Your description does not allow any air gap."


You are wrong. Lorna
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Old 12-06-2010, 09:06 AM   #10
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We do not need ridicule of members.
The point was made what worked for them, others can take that advise or leave it alone.
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